Travel – Page 2 – Ian Louis Harris

Japan Day Eleven: A Day In Koyasan, 30 October 2018

We rose early at Ekoin – well, we did go to bed early the night before and we were trying to sleep on floor futons.

In any case, we needed to be up early for the morning service at 6:30. So after a quick slug or two of coffee from the excellent communal coffee machine, we shuffled along to the Ekoin Temple. Unlike the meditation, which is a sort-of service for the tourists, this morning service is the real Shingon monk macoy and had started bang on time. So we were a tad late, but not the very latest of the visitors to show up.

Very hypnotic chanting – one of the young trainee monks seemed to be very good at it. The senior monk, who looks the part in every way, not least his Buddha-like shape, was not quite so pleasing on the ear, chant-wise.

I discreetly (in accordance with the rules of etiquette provided) videoed a short clip, which is hard to see but you can hear the sound of the mantra chanting and bell ringing quite clearly:

Then we attended the 7:00 Fire Ritual in the adjoining chapel, which appears to be used solely for that purpose. Again our fellow visitors seemed exceptionally eager. We reckon that we did well to be tardier and therefore nearer the door because it wasn’t half carcinogenically smokey in there. Again I discreetly videoed a short clip so you can see what it was like – the clip gets more visible as the flames rise some 30 seconds in:

Janie also took a discreet, rather evocative photo or ten in the fire ritual:

Then breakfast – a modest vegetarian meal along similar lines to, but much smaller than the late afternoon feast. The highlight was the seaweed wafers which enabled me make rice only sushi rolls.

Yes, that’s right folks. High on a mountain I was rolling my own weed. But this breakfast did not make either of us feel high.

After breakfast, but before going off for our walks, we sneaked back into the temple to take some pictures of that rather stunning space and the Ekoin monastery surrounds in good light.

We wanted to see the town and we were told that there is an excellent hiking trail up a peak, Bentsen Dake, near the town, where you can leave the town at the western gate, Daimon, re-entering through the northern, Nyonindo and back to Ekoin.

So, to get to the Daimon Gate, we first needed to stroll the length of the town, which in itself would be about 25-30 minutes walk without stopping.

But we did stop a few times; to buy some tuck in an attempt to sweeten the austerity of our diet. Also to pick up a few interesting little gifts and the like. This pilgrimage town is for sure touristic, but more oriented to local tourists and it seemed less tourist-trap like than, say, Takayama.

We also looked briefly at the largest temple complex in town, Danjo Garan, before heading for the Daimon Gate and up into the “mountain” – really just a good rigorous peak walk than a mountain.

It was glorious up there.

In the words of Kobo-Daishi:

I never tire of admiring the old pine trees and moss-covered stones of Mount Koyasan. Clear streams on the mountain never cease flowing with compassion. Beware taking pride in the superficial poisons of secular fame and profit.

So there.

As for our walk, pictures probably tell most of the story better than I can with words.

We encountered hardly anyone up there. While we stopped at a resting point, just before we reached the peak of Bentsen Dake, we heard beautiful operating singing, which seemed to be getting nearer. It was – a young Japanese woman, with a glorious voice, stopped singing when she realised we were there and seemed most embarrassed. She explained in broken English that she likes to practice her singing while walking up there.

I think we only saw one other person the whole walk, although we did hear a choir singing in the distance (down in the town) later on during our walk – perhaps that chorus was the reason the young woman was practicing earlier.

The very top of Bentsen Dake has a small shrine and not the best views – but there’s only one trail so you need to go all the way up if you want to come down the other side and see those views; also glorious.

It was much easier going down – who knew?

Back through the town, quite tired but we were keen also to stroll the graveyard by light. So we retreated to Ekoin for a while to take some tea, rest, take stock on the photos and then set off again for the graveyard.

The graveyard has a totally different look and vibe during the day. Very photogenic and far fewer people on the walking trail from the town. However, once we got over the second (of the three) bridges, we were diverted (due to restoration works) to pick up the road and the more heavily populated and commercialised route from the bus & coach stops.

In a way this was a good thing, because we might not have seen that side of the cemetery at all had the regular trail been open all the way.

There are some really weird graves and mini-mauselia there. Some with the names and logos of companies to honour. One, presumably erected by an aeronautical company or in honour of an engineer, looks like a rocket. Some are stunning in design, some garishly so.

Anyway, we had a good look around, took some interesting photos and then return to our pilgrims quarters just too late to attend meditation this afternoon. What a pity.

Still, we meditated in our own way, by reviewing our photos, then soon enough it was time for our late afternoon meal. I tucked in more heartily than Daisy, as indeed had been the case throughout our stay. Again the centrepiece was vegetables and noodles in broth, but when that broth and sesame tofu in a blandish daishi sauce are the highlights, you know you don’t want me to tell you about the lowlights.

A bit more photo-reviewing and the like after the meal – we’d done the night cemetery walk yesterday after all and there isn’t anything else to do in that town at night. We raided our tuck rations, sufficient of which remained from earlier in the day – Daisy’s acquired skills from boarding school coming in useful at last, all these years later.

Then an early night on that floor futon for the last time. Strangely – perhaps through increasing familiarity or perhaps through tiredness from so much walking – I slept well that last night on the futon, as did Daisy.

All the pictures from Day Eleven can be seen by clicking the Flickr link here or below:

Postscript

I also, discreetly, took a photograph for the King Cricket website, which was published only 18 months or so later:

A cricket book in the Ekoin Monastery Temple in Koyasan, Japan

If anything were ever to go awry with the King Cricket site, you can find that article here.

Japan Day Ten: Journey To Koyasan And Cemetery Walk, 29 October 2018

It was a fairly complicated journey to get from Kyoto to Koyasan. So rather than bore your with the details, I have decided to explain the physical and spiritual journey of a few hours in the form of 10 haikus.

furtive morning

journey planned to excess

tickets hiding

Kyoto heaving

rail passengers queuing

without us

kind travellers

assist our passage

Osaka bound

Osaka heaving

towards Shin-Imamaya

train looping

farewell throng

Gokurakubashi

beckons calmly

guard advises

carriage change needed

train uncoupling

climbing slowly

motionless waiting

Nippon Chigley

sunny hillsides

glorious images

serene smiling

Gokurakubashi

peace briefly suspended

cable car

speedy taxi

Ekoin shukubo

welcoming

Not that haikus have anything specifically to do with Shingon or Esoteric Buddhism, which is centred at Koyasan. Although the 9th century founder of this sect, Kukai aka Kobo-Daishi, wrote some mean poems before transferring to “a state of eternal meditation” in the year 835.

For those who prefer pictures to haikus, here is the latter stage of the story in pictures.

We stayed in the Ekoin shukubo, or pilgrims dwellings, where relatively wimpish and well-to-do tourists, like ourselves, can enjoy the austerity of monastic life in comparative luxury. So we had heating in the form of a mobile air-conditioning unit and en-suite toilet and bathroom of surprisingly high quality, albeit somewhat utilitarian in look.

An especially smiley trainee monk, Nori, looked after us on arrival and to some extent thereafter. Most of the trainee monks were less smiley than Nori, as were most of the guests, especially the Western visitors (it seemed to be about 50%/50% at Ekoin between Japanese and Western “pilgrims”), who seemed to be taking the experience very seriously indeed.

Not that Janie and I were being facetious or disrespectful towards our hosts – far from it – but we suspected that some of our fellow Western visitors wanted to flaunt their “more spiritual than thou” credentials. We were relieved that this shukubo went for the “dine in your own room” tradition rather than the communal dining which is the tradition in some.

But before our modest late afternoon/early evening meal (temporally misnamed by almost anyone’s standards as “dinner”), we participated in the afternoon 30 minute meditation, which (as with all the activities) is voluntary for guests.

I enquired about the floor sitting requirement for the meditation and was informed that there are chairs available for those who, like me, want to have a go but fear the consequences of trying to meditate in the floor-sitting posture for that long.

As it turned out, I was the only meditator that afternoon who wimped out for the chair – everyone else tried to follow all of the instructions, including the sitting bit. Although, as Daisy pointed out, with the possible exception of herself (on the floor) and me (sitting in a comfortable chair-seated position), all of the Western meditators started to fidget and ended up fidgeting like crazy by the end of the session.

I found the breathing element fine – I usually do – but the mind-emptying side of things is a struggle for me, as was the strange injunction to keep our eyes half open – half shut.

Soon after meditation came the late afternoon meal referred to as dinner, an ornate-looking feast of fruit, vegetables, tofu (multiple types), noodles, rice…but no meat, no fish and very little that was “full of flavour” in the way we have become accustomed to in Japan. Daisy wondered whether she could survive two whole days on such rations. I wondered if I could survive two whole minutes eating on the floor and decided that i could not – moving relevant bits of my grub onto the small table and chair provided on our covered terrace/viewing deck.

After the meal, the monks removed the food and made up our floor-futon beds. But we didn’t see that room transformation, as we had booked to do the cemetery walk that evening.

The Okunoin Cemetery night walk seems to be organised through our shukubo, which is right at the Okunoin end of Koyasan. Okunoin is the largest cemetery in Japan and is the location where Kobo-Daishi is “eternally meditating”. It is the done thing to walk the cemetery at night, apparently. As Kobo-Daishi himself said:

Why, you ask, do I compare human nature and the moon?

It is because the round and clear shape of the full moon is not unlike a mind aspiring towards enlightenment.

It should be a profound experience, but the enormous group of us, perhaps 40 in our English language group and perhaps 20 more on the Japanese tour behind us, not just from our shukubo but tourists from all over the town, made for a rather regimented event. Not least, perhaps because it was so cold at night, people were stomping along at speed and with purpose that seemed, to us, to detract from the peaceful cemetery atmosphere. The Zen lot might ask, “what is the sound of 50 or 60 space cadets peacefully marching?”…Or some such koan.

Anyway, stomp to the mausoleum we did, then the larger group split off to walk a shorter distance to the bus stop and ride home, while we and a handful of hardier folk walked back across the bridges to the town entrance. The walk back was more in keeping with the atmosphere we had hoped for.

We walked a bit deeper into town, in the hope of finding the convenience store that is said to stay open “late” – it was 21:00ish – but that place is a little deeper into the town than Daisy wanted to go to satisfy her craving for something sweet to stave off the absence of her coveted meat and fish.

So we returned to our room and the futon beds on the floor. For one reason or another or indeed for several reasons, I don’t think either of us is cut out for the monastic life. Who knew?

Japan Day Nine: A Kyoto Geisha Tour With Mr Panasonic, 28 October 2018

Having unintentionally done so much touring yesterday, we really did take it easy in the morning. I wanted to do some write ups and organise the ludicrous number of photos we’re generating; both of us wanted to rest/spa a little and be ready in good time for today’s tour and for tomorrow’s off.

So we sat in the main restaurant/grill/bar area for some while after breakfast while I fiddled around, then both returned to the room for some spa and (in my case) more writing up.

How those hours flew by goodness only knows, but we still ended up rushing to be on time for our guide, Eiji Hiraki, who had sent us a reminder note by fax asking us to be punctual.

Eiji turned out to be a quite extraordinary character. He had headed up sales for Panasonic in the Americas for most of his career until, a few years ago, (in my words, not his) retiring and taking up guiding for fun. His other avocations include mountain walking and playing Beatles songs on the guitar.

He is remarkably fit for a seventy-year-old and kept striding ahead of us, while we (surely fit enough) wanted to dwell over some things – but not others. He seemed to think that we would want to spend time and money in gimcrack shops, for example, until we showed no interest in those. But we did want to try black sesame ice cream which slowed him down a little.

Along the way, I learnt that Eiji broke all sales records for Panasonic in the Americas in his time, that Sony was his main competitor and that he spent every night dreaming of how to beat Sony. I concluded that it was far more fun being his client than it would have been to be his employee or, even worse, his competitor.

Eiji seemed a little edgy throughout, in as much as he was insistent that the highlight of our afternoon would be some drinks and snacks in a bar with/on him. Frankly, we were happy to whizz through much of the itinerary, as long as we could see the highlights and linger on the bits that interested us, which we did.

To speed up proceedings, Eiji had produced his own visual aids to explain Kyoto’s history, the way the geisha/maiko system works and so on. Those visual aids really did work, for both of us and especially for Daisy who hates guides who lecture at length, which Eiji didn’t.

So we saw the Gion district north and south, including Hanami-koji’s tea shops. We wandered around the Yasaka Shrine, we crossed the Tatsumi Bashi Bridge and thus the Shirakawa Canal.

We saw no real geishas or maikos – tourists rarely do, it seems. The streets are thronging with young women who have hired kimonos for the day – mostly Chinese tourists according to Eiji – making the area look very attractive but the geishas are going about their business far more privately.

We have long been fascinated by geishas and how all of that stuff works. When Janie and I first started to go out with each other, my mother seemed to be under the misapprehension that Janie herself was a geisha girl…at least I think that’s what mum said.

Anyway, apparently, these days, the going rate for a well-trained maiko (i.e. a trainee geisha) is about £700 per hour, which is almost enough to make a Big Four Accountancy Partner or Magic Circle Solicitor blush,,,

…I said ALMOST enough.

Once we had ascertained that there were no geishas to be seen, we jumped in a cab downtown to the junction of Shijo Street and Kawaramachi Street, where several big department stores reside and the busiest pedestrian junction in Kyoto. Eiji pointed out a couple of stores, including Takashimaya, where he rated the restaurants, especially the tempura one, if we wanted to eat straight after our drinks and snacks.

Then Eiji took us down a side street to a new bar he was keen to patronise. An extensive drinks menu and snacks list might have been the draw. Plus the spanking newness of the rest rooms etc. perhaps.

So we chatted, drank sake, plum wine and (in Eiji’s case) highballs. We also snacked on edamame beans, salmon sashimi and cucumber with a delicious sweet miso paste – we also at that juncture handed over our respective gifts and sang “All My Loving” a-capella in three part “harmony”.

A very nice, lively fellow drinker took our picture for us and then told us in painfully broken English that his daughter is in London studying fashion while working in a ramen shop and that he hoped to visit London next summer. You have no idea how difficult it was to discern that content, nor how much effort this keen chap was putting in to trying to make us understand his English. It reminded me of a Two Ronnies sketch.

I think we could have carried on drinking with Eiji had we wished, but Janie and I have no real head or stomach for boozing, especially when we have an early start and a long journey the next day. In any case, I had visions of waking up the next morning to discover that I have signed an order for several thousand Panasonic rice cookers and tens of thousands of Panasonic video recorders, so we thought best to thank Eiji and bring an end to proceedings. We headed back to the junction, said goodbye to Eiji and sort-of intended to head back to Gion for the yakitori meal we had half-promised ourselves…

…except we hadn’t tried tempura in the city of tempura and Eiji had said that the yakitori is excellent in Osaka…

…so we relented and did as the master salesman suggested – we ate in the Tsunahachi Tempura restaurant in Takashimaya, which was an excellent meal and great fun.

I managed to blob a piece of tempura squid onto my shirt early in the meal, much to the hilarity of a lady diner at the counter, who was trying to be a polite lady by missing my gaze, but clearly couldn’t stop watching us and finding us a mixture of fascinating and hilarious. The restaurant should have paid us a fee for entertaining the customers. £700 per hour would secure our services as entertainers, eh, Daisy?

We retired to the hotel by cab, tired but exhilarated by another truly fun day.

All the pictures from Day Nine can be seen by clicking the Flickr link here or below:

Japan Day Eight: Kyoto Tea Ceremony But Otherwise Unguided Day, 27 October 2018

Both of us were feeling just a little below par first thing this morning; nothing specific but probably the sensory excesses of the last week or so, combined with the slight over-indulgence of last night’s wonderful meal.

We agreed that we’d make it a light touring day after the short morning activity we had pre-arranged – a tea ceremony.

We had quite a long list of things we fancied seeing, but most or even all of them could wait until tomorrow if we didn’t feel like doing much, which we didn’t.

That was the plan.

But then, we all know what can happen to plans.

The tea ceremony was very interesting and great fun. A courier with the unconventional Japanese name Jim took us to the venue, then disappeared. Nine of us in a group, hosted by the Women’s Association of Kyoto – WAK. And what a “waky” experience it was too.

Daisy and I had done a tea ceremony before, at Yaohan Plaza “back in the day”, but it wasn’t then explained as comprehensively as this and frankly I recall not much liking the taste of the matcha – i.e. powdered green tea, when I tasted it at Yaohan.

The Kyoto style demonstrated by the charming WAK lady is a frothy style of matcha, far less bitter than the stuff I recall from Yaohan. Daisy still didn’t like it much, but I am now a bit of a green tea aficionado and really enjoyed the Kyoto tea ceremony tea – slurp slurp.

Of course, the ceremony requires everyone to bow and follow a strict ritual of manners in an environment that has been very specifically set out to be a tea room – the explanatory leaflet we were given at the end of the visit runs to 16 pages for goodness sake. Most importantly, if you like the tea you slurp the last drop.

One couple in our group were relatively young honeymooners from London who, it transpired afterwards, are great fans of Atari-Ya – our Japanese fishmonger and supermarket, but they use the Finchley branch. Daisy also spoke at some length with an Irish lady from Waterford who was there on her own. There was another couple, in their case from Yorkshire. The final pair was from France (a grandmother and grandson combination I guessed, but perhaps a wealthy lady taking the current French Presidential age difference fashion to an illogical extreme.)

Revived by our cuppa and inspired by the improved weather, we decided to go to the Kyoto Botanical Garden, as Daisy wanted to see bonzai trees and we knew there was a regular exhibit of many of them.

We were near a subway line and I had worked out that the mere two subway lines could nevertheless whisk us to a few of the remaining places we wanted to see for the small investment of 600 Yen (if you were prepared to forego the right to suffer on the buses).

That subway pass investment paid a dividend almost immediately when, as I ventured to procure our entry tickets to the Botanical Garden, the nice ticket lady spotted my pass and announced a small discount on our entry tickets as a result. The sums involved are trifling yet I’m sure I looked pleased to have scored a few dozen Yen and she looked delighted to have helped me.

The Botanical Garden is a very charming place and was a great opportunity to see all manner of plants and flowers which especially interests Janie but also (in such a pleasant setting) also pleased me.

We spent quite a while there, meandering around the various well-labelled and well set out exhibits, also looking at many small show gardens which were getting ready to be judged in a competition. Some were a bit gimmicky (e.g. the Halloween and dinosaur themed ones) but many were very beautiful and tastefully symbolic.

We took some ice cream (chestnut again, I thought not quite as nutty and whippy as Tsumago, but Janie thought just as good) at the cafe in front of the central lawn. I pondered the possibilities for said lawn as a cricket pitch – you know what I’m like.

Then we looked at the bonzai trees and then felt replete with gardens. Except we still hadn’t seen the sky walk and sky garden at Kyoto Station, of course. That was a simple few stops away on the subway. So we went on there.

It still took some finding – it’s not exactly signposted but once you start going up escalators it is obvious what you should do next, whereas wandering round at ground level with our baggage the previous day looking for signs had been hopeless.

Up we went and of course the architecture of the place is stunning and some of the views of Kyoto also worth the effort. Mostly it’s the place itself, though.

Then we thought we might try to find spare batteries for our LUMIX cameras, as our models, which suit us fine, are becoming dated and/but the bit that is most likely to go first is the batteries, which are already displaying signs of holding less charge than they once did.

Almost miraculously, while I was trying to navigate around the station to get to the “camera shop near me” recommended by Mr Google to the west side of the station, we quite by chance spotted a promotional stand with what looked like Yayoi Kusama pumpkins on it.

It transpires that the Kyoto Contemporary Art Museum is showing a retrospective on her and it is open until 18:00. That museum was on my “possibles list”, although I had discounted the possibility that we might see many, if any Kusama pieces there.

We resolved to head for that place after sorting out the LUMIX battery business. We found the camera shop but sadly were informed that our particular LUMIX batteries can no longer be found in Kyoto. We should have more luck in Osaka.

The camera shop – more like an electronics and chemist department store – was able to supply us with some nice mineral bath salts and one or two other chemist-type products, so we hadn’t completely wasted our time there.

Next stop, Sanjo Kehan station, on the fringes of the shopping district and the Gion district. The shopping side looked dull whereas the lure of the Forever Modern Art Museum was greater, especially when Mr Google told us it was a mere 15 minutes walk away…

…or rather, it would have been a mere 15 minutes had we not bumped into Martin and Jane, with whom we had done the food and culture stroll around Takayama only a couple of days ago. It was really nice to see them again and to swap stories from our different adventures of the last 48 hours or so.

Soon we realised that we would need to stride with purpose if we were to be sure of getting to the Yayoi Kusama in time. We did make it and were astonished to find that it was a substantial retrospective exhibition – basically the Forever Modern has been entirely purposed for this exhibition. After all that fuss in Tokyo and knowledge that Kusama’s London show is also sold out – this excellent one in Kyoto we just walked up and paid to get in on the door. Daisy was like a proverbial pig in shit.

I also enjoyed the exhibition but my goodness we were both tired when we came out of that place. We had meant it to be a light day of touring.

We resolved to eat at the hotel, intending it to be a light evening of eating too – we both had a crazy craving for some Western food. But the set menu looked so tempting, both in terms of the dishes on offer and relative price (exceptionally expensive place for food, the Hyatt), that we relented and enjoyed Caesar salad, clam chowder, ribs’n’beef with mash/veg and an “apple pie” which was in truth a cross between Grandma Jenny’s apple pie and mum’s apple strudel. Nice wines too.

A fine end to a fine day.

All the pictures from Day Eight can be seen by clicking the Flickr link here or below:

Japan Day Seven: Journey To And Guided Orientation In Kyoto, 26 October 2018

We made an early start this morning, leaving Best Western and Takayama behind on an 8:00 train. A busy but peaceful ride back to Nagoya.

Then a shorter but more heaving carriage between Nagoya and Kyoto – we were with a huge group of huge Aussies with huge suitcases – just as well we got on the train quickly and grabbed our corner of the baggage rack early. That vignette will be captured in a short King Cricket piece in the fullness of time.

Postscript: “the fullness of time” turned out to be 31 March 2020, by which time most of the world was in pandemic lockdown. Still, the vignette reads very nicely on King Cricket:

A cricket book on a Bullet Train to Kyoto

Just in case anything ever goes awry with King Cricket, I have scraped that piece to here.

We looked briefly but in vain for a route up to the sky walk and sky garden in Kyoto station – strange, as we were so close to it but it is not well signposted and probably just as well because we had our bags with us. So we got a cab to the hotel where they were able to accommodate us early in an annex room – larger, near the spa but without a view.

Losing track of time, we realised that we would be meeting our guide, Moto Suzuki, very soon, so we popped downstairs to grab a quick snack ahead of our tour. There I saw, sitting quite close to our table in the lounge section, a slightly nervous looking fellow who I guessed might be Moto a few minutes early for his gig. It was him.

Moto immediately announced that we wouldn’t have time in four hours to visit all of the sites on the list that he, Moto, had faxed to us, in a note that was waiting for us on arrival. This all seemed a little odd to me as we had very little in the way of expectations from this half-day tour before he sent his note, other than, as in Tokyo, an element of orientation while seeing some highlights of the city.

Anyway, we quickly ascertained that two temples in one afternoon would be one temple too many. I also hatched my plan, in search of the elusive dish, Kakuni, to end up in the neighbourhood where the TripAdvisor punter had recommended a restaurant, Miki, for that very dish.

Public transport in Kyoto is not at all like public transport in Tokyo. Of course it is a much smaller city, but that doesn’t really explain the disjointed transportation system, for which a spaghetti mind might just help, whereas the orderly mind would surely be prone to confusion.

Even Moto seemed to struggle with some of the whys and wherefores of it, but we set off on foot, then went to a local railway line (off the two-line subway system) where he needed to pay separately, before getting us to a more regular line where he was able to buy day passes for us.

By a mixture of these methods, including buses, Moto took us to see, first, Nijo Castle, which was fascinating and steeped in history, which Moto explained patiently and very well. The real castle part of that c1600 complex was destroyed by lightening in the early 1700s, but the larger, surrounding complex of castle buildings has been preserved.

I was especially taken by the stunning ceiling work and by one carved piece, in the partition between two rooms, carved from a single ultra-thick plank of wood with ornate designs such as peacocks on one side and a totally different, slightly less ornate, carving on the other side, despite each carving including many features that are carved all the way through the piece of wood.

What sort of mind could possibly design such a complex piece? The sort of mind that would, 400 years later, be able to navigate the Kyoto transportation system perhaps. No really, the craftsmanship was exquisite.

Nice gardens at Nijo too, together with a relaxed atmosphere when walking around the site.

Next, a comfort-lite journey, mostly by bus, to another part of town to see the Golden Temple. This is really a very beautiful reconstruction of the original temple (destroyed by mad-monastic arson in the 1950s) but in its charming garden setting and the late afternoon sunlight it was an absolute delight to the eyes and to the camera lens.

Daisy and I competed feverishly to find the very best angle and capture the light in the very best way in our photographs – hence there being dozens of them in the complete photograph deck, but in the end we decided that the match ended as a high-scoring draw.

There was a small gaggle of Russian women taking photographs of each other posing like crazy. I felt loathe to encourage them by snapping at them myself, but suggested that Daisy capture that moment. She actually snapped the best looking of the gaggle, plus separately the rest of the gaggle.

As expected, we were out of time in terms of seeing the other temple and by the time we had meandered back to the subway somewhat circuitously to avoid the rush hour crowds, we didn’t have time to see Higashiyama and also track down the Miki place for our Kakuni.

Still, Moto was very happy for me to eat his brain on thoughts for what we might see and how we might get around during our copious free time in Kyoto. So in terms of orientation, the outing was a great success…

…as indeed, it proved to be in the matter of finding Kakuni, but not in the way we expected. We took a long hike from the K-line station to the west-side location where Miki (and supposedly Kakuni) were to be found. We took some nice evening photos along the way.

We also furnished Moto with a gift of Harrods biscuits in a fancy tin, which seemed to please him beyond measure – I get the impression that only a minority of visitors take gifts for their guides in this non-tipping (but gift-accepting) culture.

We hastened our step as we approached the Miki restaurant, but…it transpired that the Kakuni was off the menu at Miki’s now. Oh woe. Oh sorrow.

It was our good fortune that Moto is a bit of a Kakuni fan. His wife makes Kakuni at home and he was even able to recommend us his favourite ramen restaurant in Tokyo; the only one to his knowledge that serves Kakuni in ramen.

The bit we didn’t realise was that Kakuni is actually a regional dish, from a southern island, Kyushu, hence its scarcity, even in big cities. Moto came up trumps by tracking down a restaurant that specialises in food from that region and phoning them to confirm that they had Kakuni available and a place for us to eat.

He then insisted on taking us to the location to make absolutely sure everything would be all right for us. The location turned out to be the plaza underneath the Mitsui Building and the restaurant named Satuma Gokamon Shijo Karasuma (don’t try saying that after two or three sakes).

Unlike most of the other (many) eateries in that plaza, our one was very full and entirely populated with Japanese customers apart from us. Nevertheless, they did (sort of) have a menu in English (a more limited card) and one waiter who spoke excellent English who could help us to go “off-piste” (or rather, “on Japanese piste” menu-wise).

We had a superb meal. Portion sizes were quite small (but then so were prices per dish), so we ordered a second helping of Kakuni (having come all this way and with such difficulty). We also tried chicken nanban and satsuma-age fish cake, both of which were excellent.

It was a great fun evening, which we could bring to a tired end easily enough, as the one aspect of the transport system in Kyoto that seems to work very well, very easily and is (relative to other cities and Japanese prices generally) reasonably priced is the taxi system – most places cross-town for a tenner or less. And the taxis can move in Kyoto too. That final lesson in orientation was possibly the most useful of the lot.

All the pictures from Day Seven can be seen by clicking the Flickr link here or below:

Japan Day Six: A Great Day In Takayama, 25 October 2018

We rose reasonably early, as we had arranged a morning tour of the town, but not at silly o’clock.

For the first time in ages, we would be doing a group tour. We like to travel independently and so, to the extent that we take tours, we usually arrange private ones. But our agent Tim recommended this and a few other tours we’ll be doing in Japan to be best taken as group tours and we trusted him. Spoiler alert: Tim was right as usual – we had a great morning.

We had been given just a simple joining instruction in our pack, to be at the Takayama Jinya Main Gate between 9:15 and 9:20. I guessed that this was a place where many tours gathered and wondered whether we’d find it difficult to locate our particular guide. But in truth most of the groups gathering there were Japanese tour groups so I quickly spotted out guide, Momo, with an English couple, Martin and Jane, waiting for the rest of our group.

I soon learnt that Martin and Jane are from Kendal but that they do not like mint cake. Soon another pair joined us; Travis and Keely, from Sacramento, California. Then just one more couple, Peter and Janet from York. We were complete.

Momo took a group picture of us all in front of the Takayama Jinya Main Gate and then continued to take pictures of us throughout the tour which she then sent to us later that same day – such is the modern way with group tours perhaps, or some extra care and attention in Momo’s excellent approach to guiding.

This was basically a food and culture walk, with more food than culture on the itinerary.

To make my life easier, Momo’s covering note with the photographs explains our itinerary…

…we visited today:

・Jinyamae Morning Market(陣屋前朝市)

・Harada sake brewery(原田酒造)

・Miyagawa Morning Market(宮川朝市, everyday around 8am to noon)

・Fukutaro(Café,福太郎)

・Bunrindo（Confectionary,分隣堂）

…except, of course, that the itinerary only tells you what formally happened. Informally, there was a whole load of other stuff going on, not least because we were a very curious group of eight people. I don’t mean weird-curious…

…although some of us, me and Daisy included, might be thus described…

…no, I mean we had eight people all exerting their curiosity and interest in the sights, smells and tastes of Takayama, while wandering around, theoretically in a group.

Momo answering one of Ged’s trickier questions

At one point, Keely described looking after our group as an exercise in cat-herding and I thought that was a pretty spot-on description. Yet somehow Momo managed to keep a watchful eye on all of us and gently cajole us in top following the route she had planned and sort-of doing and seeing the things she had chosen for us.

Lots of photos – some of which are peppered in this Ogblog piece, tell the tale better than words. Some of the photos were taken by Momo, others by me and Janie. If Janie and I are both in the photo, then you know it was Momo – we’re not selfie stick types…yet.

Everyone in the group was really good company – we found out a lot about each other and our various journeys through the culinary elements of life. Some had been fussy eaters when younger but had relented over the years; one or two of us were still quite set in our ways with regards to food and were finding that aspect of Japan quite challenging. Janie and I were probably the most familiar with Japanese cuisine before the visit to Japan.

The conviviality was, of course, assisted by the visit to the sake shop to sample several sakes at around 10:00. That must be the earliest in the day that Janie and I have taken alcohol in living memory. Writing this up early (6:30ish) the next morning, I wonder whether I will get a “it’s sake o’clock” feeling when we are on the train to Kyoto at 10:00. (Editor’s subsequent note: no I didn’t).

The town is geared up to people going around and sampling food and drink, it seems. For example, we made an impromptu stop at a miso shop that wasn’t on our itinerary and sampled their miso.

We tried some street food along the way – no I don’t mean the above children or dogs.

I was the only person in our group who braved the takoyaki – octopus dumplings. Very hot temperature-wise but rather interesting in taste and wonderful textures – the goo of the dumpling then the chew of the octopus.

Soon after that, Daisy and I got chatting to an antipodean mother and daughter combination; Marianne (I think) and Sophie. But where were they from? The mother’s accent was French but I’m sure one of them said they were from Perth. Daisy came away from the conversation convinced that they had said that they were from New Zealand…quite a difference.

A whole-hearted debate about the origins of this unusual antipodeans ensued – Travis even opened a betting-book on the question and Daisy chased after the pair to interrogate them further. Daisy eventually returned, having heard the mother’s entire life story, claiming that both of us were right, as although the pair were sort-of from Perth, they had also lived in New Zealand. So all the bets were off.

Meanwhile the tour was coming to a conclusion. We all took tea/coffee and some mostly savory nibbles in a tea house at the end of the food stall market…

…and then strolled back to the centre of town via a confectionery store.

There the tour ended, so Daisy and I presented Momo with a gift of some English nibbles (Harrods I think they were, or perhaps Fortnum’s) before saying goodbye to the delightful group who had helped make our morning very special.

We strolled a little on our own, not least stopping at an interesting furniture-oriented department store (Takayami is renowned for its carpentry)…

…but only really to kill a little time before getting the bus to the Hide Folk Village.

The folk village is a falsey in a way, as the medieval houses have been transported from various other parts of the country.

But the houses have been placed artfully around a rather beautiful artificial lake and the interesting displays that have been placed inside them – authentic from the point of view that the relics relate to the houses (or at least the villages from which the houses) that have been transplanted to the Hide Folk Village.

In short, it made for a very charming and informative stroll. Hardly a Western tourist to be seen at that site – quite a lot of Japanese tourists and school groups though.

We returned briefly to our hotel just to wash and change in preparation for an early evening visit to Ajikura Tengoku, the restaurant we couldn’t get into yesterday, to ensure we got a table.

Ahead of our meal, though, we encountered a rare example of poor service in Japan as my laundry at the Best Western Hotel Takayama came back with a significantly higher price than expected. The laundry decided that my casual cotton shirts should be priced as overcoats and that my simple cotton trousers required a premium of a few quid over the (already very high) rate on the card, all for no apparent reason.

Daisy got quite incensed by all of this as a matter of principle, not least because the hotel functionary insisted that I bring the laundry back down for him to examine and then only tried to put matters right with a derisory couple of small coins, rather than the actual amount I had been overcharged.

Irritated but determined not to let such a small matter (a few quid, albeit a matter of principle) ruin such a lovely day, I simply resolved to get Audley to complain on our behalf and to report in detail on Trip Advisor a warning about how laundry happened for us at the Best Western Hotel Takayama.

Far more importantly, we had a date (but not a booking) at Ajikura Tengoku, so off we set to ensure we got there about 17:30, within half an hour of the place opening. There we found a tiny queue (we were second in line) and were in business within five minutes of our arrival – success.

Note for anyone who thinks that 17:30 is ridiculously early…when we left the place just after 19:00 there was a great long queue and the staff were already putting out the “full for the evening” signs.

Anyway, we got to try the wonderful local Hide beef and pork on a yakiniku grill. So once again we ended up cooking our own dinner and paying for the privilege of doing so!

…I just hope Daisy doesn’t photograph my undignified exit from this low table

No seriously, that restaurant is a very good place and although the meal was quite pricey, it was nowhere near the £100 plus per head prices in some of the more high-falutin’ looking places in town where the reviews are lower-falutin’ that the Ajikura Tengoku reviews.

So we had a very special meal to round off a very special day.

All the pictures from Day Six (ours and Momos) can be seen by clicking the Flickr link here or below:

Japan Day Five: Tsumago to Takayama, 24 October 2018

However much I try to be ready ahead of an earlyish travel day, it always seems like a bit of a rush in the end – this morning was no exception.

Of course there was bags of time when I rose, with difficulty, from the futon bed at 4.00 am to enjoy the onsen for one last time and relax myself sufficiently to go back to sleep again before 5.00. Of course there was loads of time to do some writing up first thing when I did rise properly.

There even seemed to be bags of time when we went down to breakfast at 7:45 with little left to do. Yet that Japanese style breakfast takes time even when you don’t want to eat all that much of it…

… so when I couldn’t find the version of the key that had the safe key on it, 20 minutes before our transfer bus, I did start to worry.

But of course I had only temporary mislaid the key and of course I was still downstairs and had settled the bill 15 minutes before the shuttle bus.

When Janie emerged five minutes or so after that, she was carrying not only her own bag but also that of “Mrs Tinker”, with “Mr & Mrs Tinker” following behind.

I must now explain about that couple, who were also staying at Fukinomori. To protect their identity we shall refer to them as Mr & Mrs Tinker. They clearly didn’t seem at all happy. We had heard Mrs Tinker grumble about her food and the fact that Hideo couldn’t speak English. We had heard very little from the Tinker table at meal times; he seemed to speak hardly at all. They didn’t seem at all friendly. I did hear them at the front desk the previous morning making their arrangements to leave, so I knew we would be on that shuttle together and I guessed they might be travelling our way.

It reminded both of us a little of The Taylor Couple Saga in Malawi (deep in those notes but eventually to be Ogblogged), where we noticed a disagreeable couple early in our trip and discovered that they were following us around for most of our Malawi holiday.

But unlike the Taylors of Malawi, the “Tinkers of Japan” turned out to be a pleasant, but unfortunate couple who had been blighted by her mobility health issues between booking the trip and setting off for Japan. Like us, they were using Audley travel. Like us, they were travelling next to Takayama. Naturally we compared notes.

Strangely, the Tinkers were scheduled (and reserved) on the express train from Nagoya to Takayama at 11:43, over an hour before our reserved train at 12:48 but only eight minutes after the local train arrives at Nagoya.

There were other English speakers on the shuttle bus (a nice Aussie couple) and on the local trains (a nice Scottish couple from Nantwich), which helped pass the time.

Meanwhile, I hatched a plan to try to get to Takayama earlier than expected, by dint of us helping the Tinkers to get to their train on time and us grabbing a couple of unreserved seats on said train…which worked.

In the unreserved car, Daisy and I snacked on the ginger snap-style biscuits that Janie bought in Tsumago for just such a snacking urgency. A Japanese family showed us how you can rotate seats to sit foursome style or airplane twosome style. As the unreserved car was not well populated, we took advantage of thus double-seating.

Why we were recommended a later train whereas the Tinkers were recommended the quick change is a bit of a mystery. The Tinkers had not gone through Tim at Audley and perhaps Tim felt that the eight minute turnaround at a big station was too tight to mention. Certainly Mr Tinker was worried about that aspect of the journey and for sure the Tinkers would have struggled to make it on time without our help.

Still, in the end, we helped the Tinkers and the Tinkers helped us. They seemed extremely grateful to us for our help and disappointed to discover that we wouldn’t be leaving Takayama on the same day.

So, here we were in Takayama with a bit of extra time on our hands. We checked in to the Best Western, efficiently picking up our forwarded baggage.

Janie was very keen to see the Yoshijima Heritage House, which was not scheduled on our tour and I thought, if we had time, would be an excellent short visit that first afternoon, followed by a stroll back through the Sanmatchi (Old Town) district. So it proved.

Janie took loads of photos in the exquisit and tranquil Yoshijima Heritage House, which had been the home of a wealthy money lender and sake maker.

We then strolled to the heaving Sanmatchi district – possibly not the best time of day to see it if you want a sense of tranquility there – it was heaving with tourists and schoolchildren fresh out of school- but certainly a good time to pick up on the vibe of the street food snacking that is the hallmark of this unusual Japanese town.

We decided to follow the lead of our Dutch friends in Tsumago and try the green tea (in our case mixed with vanilla) ice cream. Janie thought it tasted a bit like Odono’s green tea flavour, which made her realise why she sees so many Japanese people in Odono’s. So as we thought, not especially unusual for us – unlike the chestnut flavour which doesn’t seem to have made it to Takayama.

Then back to the hotel to plan our evening meal. After much research, we settled on Ajikura Tengoku which is only three minutes from our hotel and was well recommended not only by Tim but by the TripAdvisor community, including recent reviews.

But that place turned out to be full and you cannot book – you simply have to turn up in good time – we planned to try again tomorrow. So, all dressed up with no place to go, I reverted to TripAdvisor and Google, to find what I thought was a highly-recommended pub-restaurant named Hu.

We ate a splendid simple pub meal of pork ramen, gyoza, fried chicken, fried rice and sake. Served well and efficiently – the owner-chef seemed delighted when I let him know we thought the food was delicious. We turned up at just the right time as the counter filled up soon after we arrived as did, briefly, the low-level eating area which would not have suited us.

Anyway, the meal was a success by any measure…

…but there seems to be some confusion about the place. On re-Googling, while finishing our sake, we discover that Hu is a cocktail bar nearby – no mention of food – whereas we had been eating in a tavern named Nanairo. As good fortune would have it, Nanairo is also highly regarded by the TripAdvisor community and quite rightly so.

Thus we had found exactly what we had been looking for through a flawed method. We’re on holiday – who cares? – the bit that matters is that we had a good meal and a good time.

All the pictures from Day Five can be seen by clicking the Flickr link here or below:

Japan Day Four: Fukinomori, Tsumago And Magome, 23 October 2018

The centrepiece of our day was a walk from Magome to Tsumago.

First thing in the morning though, before breakfast, what else does one do other than take a quick onsen at a place like Fukinomori? This time I braved the outside onsen as well as the inside one, although only briefly in the morning. I met a nice (Canadian I think) gentleman who was trying to persuade his young son to try the facilities. They braved the outside onsen together once I returned unscathed. Daisy didn’t brave the outside in the morning but had a peaceful time in the ladies onsen.

A very fancy-shmancy breakfast with lots of different nibbles to try and an element of “cook yourself” which seems to be the signature of this place. I’ll let these pictures tell most of the story:

Then we took the 9:50 hotel shuttle into Tsumago, which is designed to link up near-perfectly with the local bus to Magome. That local bus was very crowded and/but helped me to get my bearings a bit for the hike back – not that you need bearings because the hiking trail is incredibly well signposted.

Still, when we got to Magome I wanted to get hold of a better map than the one the hotel issued, which doesn’t actually cover the Magome bit. In any case, Magome looked like a beautiful little old-style village.

Along the way to the tourist office I was foolish enough to be tempted by a sweetmeat vendor’s offering (see pictures) which promised a secret sauce on the rice ball thingies. Daisy and I agreed that the lady is welcome to keep that recipe secret as far as we were concerned.

No, really our culinary mission and reward for hiking all the way to Tsumago was to be the chestnut ice cream, which Tim had promised to be absolutely delicious. Whenever Daisy dawdled a while, I reminded her that all the Tsumago shops tend to run out of chestnut ice cream and or close for several hours in the afternoon.

In the end, Daisy stated that the promised chestnut ice cream was probably not going to be worth the effort, so she dawdled as much as she wanted anyway.

In Magome, we did fancy looking around before hiking, so after successfully getting a map from the tourist office, we both liked the look of the Toson Memorial Museum, just across the way and something a little different. Shimazaki Toson was a famous Japanese writer who was raised in Magome for several of his earlier years. The old family home, which was destroyed by fire over 100 years ago, has been faithfully restored and turned into a museum and library. It was a very good way to learn more about that village, that sort of village life and Shimazaki Toson himself in one easy visit.

We met some nice Japanese gentlemen in the museum who gave us some fruits from a tree, we thought they were kumquats but we latter found out that the bitter, orange-coloured fruit of that region is actually persimmon and that we were probably given those, not kumquats. Both are indigenous to Japan, so who knows?

Then off on our hike. So well signposted, I really didn’t need the map, other than to Identify some of the landmarks along the way. The first part of the walk is predominantly up hill and quite arduous, but the majority of the walk this way around is a rather gentle decline into Tsumago. That I’m sure is the main reason why the recommended leisure hike is in the direction Magome to Tsumago. We encountered a few people walking the other way; not many.

Walking seems to be reasonably popular with Japanese people, though; as we neared Tsumago we encountered several Japanese tour groups walking, although we suspected that they were not doing as long or intensive a walk as ours.

The Magome to Tsumago trail is a small part (7.7 km) of the historic Nakasendo highway, which dates back to the Edo period joining Edo (Tokyo) to Kyoto – one of five such historic Imperial highways in Japan.

But none of that bothered us as we walked. We had three concerns. Firstly, to enjoy the glorious countryside and vistas on this trail.

Secondly, to be on the lookout for Asiatic bears; a rare sight in that forest by all accounts but that hasn’t stopped the authorities from placing bells to frighten off the bears at regular intervals along the trail. People seem to love ringing those bells for some reason and I took pains to try and growl like a bear whenever I heard one of the bells ring.

Thirdly, our mission to find chestnut ice cream in Tsumago, which, by the time we were getting close to the town, had revived in Daisy’s mind and was most certainly back on the agenda.

Without too much difficulty, we found a chestnut ice cream vendor in the centre of town, together with a nice Dutchman to take our photo for us.

He told us that chestnut ice cream was no big deal to a Dutchman because they can get that in the Netherlands; he and his mates were obsessing about green tea ice cream, which, we explained, is a commonplace in the UK – well, our part of London anyway.

If chestnut ice cream in the Netherlands tastes like this, I’m a Dutchman

Revived by our ice cream but realising that Tsumago is really quite a similar town to Magome, we took a few nice photos and decided to taxi back to the hotel, ahead of those who would prefer to wait another 90 minutes or so for the hotel shuttle.

That way, Daisy cleverly surmised, we’d probably have the onsen to ourselves at one of the nicest parts of the day. She was right and we both took full advantage of the outdoor onsen at that hour, only encountering other people as we were leaving.

I did some early evening blogging and then we took our evening meal – another marathon effort this time served by Mede – a very sweet young Moroccan fellow who had also served our breakfast.

I hope this isn’t one of the ducks we photographed earlier…

I won’t list all the dishes again and we weren’t given the running order this time, but we pretty much enjoyed everything we ate this evening apart from a savoury custard inbetweeny dish that seemed a bit weird to us and apparently pretty much always finds disapproval with the western diners. We settled on one of the sakes from last night which had pleased us the most and stuck with that for a couple of rounds.

Another really lovely day.

All the pictures from Day Four can be seen by clicking the Flickr link here or below:

Japan Day Three: Journey To Tsumago And Fukinomori, 22 October 2018

An early start today, finishing the packing, forwarding our baggage, breakfasting and checking out of the Park Hotel.

Frankly, we allowed far more time than was strictly necessary because the hotel was so incredibly efficient at doing its bits of the above process.

I was pretty efficient at doing my bit, which was to route us through a pretty complicated-sounding journey without mishaps and in good time.

We are now on our railcards so we cannot use automated barriers. This enabled me to use the (apparently non-male) technique of asking an official each time we went through a barrier which platform we needed for our next destination; just saying the name seemed to be enough but pointing to it on my piece of paper always sealed the deal.

Daisy took loads of photos on this journey, including one picture of Mount Fuji as we zoomed past it which I really cannot believe she managed to get that way – especially as she almost missed it and came rushing over to snap the icon at just the right moment.

We took a cab the last leg of the journey (this time aided by Daisy who spotted a tourist information booth at the railway station which I had missed – the lady in there called us a cab which came straight away – I think we might have waited a good few minutes otherwise). They don’t seem to expect tourists to be willing to fork out for cabs in that sort of remote part. They must have told us five times how much it cost (which was also clearly displayed on the taxi rank in English) to cab to Fukinomori – about £35 – which seemed worthwhile to me rather than wait hours for the local bus.

We got to the Fukinomori ryokan ahead of check in time, although we did blag our way to our room early after a few minutes waiting. There we relaxed, taking advantage of the afternoon sun on our terrace and I spent some time also fiddling about with the photos to make sure they were all backed up in the cloud in the way I want them.

Then, as the sun was setting, we braved the onsen – hot spring bath – located within Fukinomori. A false start as we had not put our yukata on properly, nor had we donned our tabi (socks), so a rather anxious member of staff took us back to our room and showed us what to do.

Ryokans are traditional Japanese inns and all guests are expected to comply with the traditions in these charming, rule-bound places.

Second time lucky in the onsen. I chatted for a while with a lovely older gentleman from Brooklyn, Ron, who was full of interesting stories about his life and eventually suggested that the onsen might make an excellent mikveh.

Ron left before me, but by the time I got out, Mrs Ron was sending out search parties for Ron and Janie was wondering where I had got to. I really enjoyed my long soak and for sure will be back for more.

Then down to dinner soon after that for a fabulous Kaiseki meal:

Superb food, served gracefully by Hideo, who had also been our orienteer when we first arrived. Hideo’s English is not great, but he tries very hard and I was able to understand him. Some of the other residents seemed less patient with him at dinner and kept asking for the waitress, who had better English, to explain the dishes to them.

We saw Ron and Mrs Ron after dinner, who expressed great delight at their meal. They are strictly Kosher and they felt this was the one place that had really taken care not only to adhere to their restrictions but to prepare a well-balanced and delicious meal within their constraints. No horse intestine for those two, then. Tofu instead, perhaps? Even I might have preferred the tofu ahead of the horse and I’m no fan of tofu. We chewed, oh yes, we chewed. Strong meat too, horse intestine. But we absolutely loved all the other dishes.

An early night on our futon mats. I’m not entirely sure I am cut out for those – he says, writing up between 4.00 and 5.00 the next morning!

All the pictures from Day Three can be seen by clicking the Flickr link here or below:

Japan Day Two: Tokyo Art Galleries And A Surprisingly Ill-Served Meal, 21 October 2018

That feeling of jet lag and the realisation that we aren’t quite as young as we used to be hit us this morning. We had done a vast amount the day before and most unusually both slept on to surprise ourselves at around 9:00, at which point we got our skates on for breakfast.

Daisy in particular went into slow-down mode, so we didn’t get out until 11:30/11:45. Still, we had planned a more modest itinerary for today, not least because we knew we’d need some evening time to get our luggage sorted out ahead of tomorrow’s sojourn to Tsumago while our main luggage will go to Takayama.

Daisy had been obsessing the last few days about Yayoi Kusama who has had a new museum dedicated to her work open in Tokyo recently, but which seems to be an utter sell out. We tried, the concierge tried, we knew that some of Daisy’s high-falutin’ clients had tried and failed…

My suggestion was that we go to the MOMAT (Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo), not least in search of Yayoi Kusama but in any case to see the modern art more generally. (Spoiler alert – we found one Yayoi Kusama art work there plus an excellent book about her).

Actually the MOMAT was well worth seeing generally – spanning the early modern period to the present day and showing the work of some Western artists who had influenced or been influenced by Japanese artists, as well as mostly Japanese work.

Too many dicks, not enough Yayoi Kusamas (just this one)

After MOMAT, we strolled along the top of the Imperial Palace Gardens for 15 minutes or so to avoid changing metro lines and to see some Tokyo Sunday life.

That neighbourhood was jogger central on a Sunday – some sort of organised thing from what we could gather. The first batch that whizzed past us were running space cadet style. The ones Daisy eventually photographed were less than special joggers who did not look as though they were enjoying themselves.

Then on to the Nezu Museum, in an up-market looking neighbourhood. If Ginza is Piccadilly, then that area, Minato, is perhaps Sloane-Chelsea.

The Nezu Museum has a beautiful garden…

…and we were really in luck regarding the displays, as a fascinating exhibition about tea paraphernalia had opened the previous day; Momoyama Tea Utensils: A New View. Perhaps for that reason, there were a great many women dressed in traditional costume at the Museum that day. Daisy discreetly photographed them, although didn’t quite capture the strange sight of these traditional-look people taking selfies and consulting iPads.

The Nezu Cafe was a delight in terms of its look and the charming service. Lovely tea (ironically green tea not available – also sold out of most cakes!) but a truly stylish cafe with sweet staff.

Then back to Ginza. While we were taking tea, Daisy had an inspired idea to make it a one meal late afternoon/early evening day, so we’d get home in good time to pack and enjoy a quiet evening.

We chose Gonpachi; one of the recommended restaurants in our Audley pack. We fancied trying the grills – we hadn’t really tried those yet. Finding the place allowed us to see a bit more of Ginza – it really is a huge shopping district.

A big eatery although not very full at 17:00 on a Sunday – Gonpachi certainly had a buzz about it but my goodness we had terrible service. OK food – if or when it arrived – but truly poor service. Our first disappointment was to spot Kukuni – slow cooked belly pork – on the menu, only to be told that it was off today. Fair enough – we’ll search high and low for Kukuni for the next couple of weeks doubtless.

We ordered a stack of other things, seemingly well advised by a waiter who told us the recommended sequence for serving our dishes, But when our order came, some of our grills (the chicken skin ones) came they not. Nor did they tempura come, which had been promised before the grills. When we raised this point, we were told that the chicken skins were off today (but they had taken that as part of our order) and that the tempura would be five more minutes. Eventually it came. Then we waited for our soba noodles…and waited and waited. Eventually we asked and were told it would be five minutes.

No apologies or attempts to put matters right for us in any other way. Gonpachi – remember the name. The place must have gone down hill since Tim or James from Audley recommended it.

No real harm done, though, we went home to pack and relax ahead of tomorrow’s journey. We’d had a great day.

All the pictures from Day Two can be seen by clicking the Flickr link here or below:

Postscript

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