China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), 4 April to 27 April 2010, placeholder and links

We were very keen to see a rural and scenic part of China; Yunnan seemed to fit the bill. We’d see interesting places.

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We’d meet interesting people.

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There would be opportunities to do some wonderful walks.

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We could stay in high quality hotels; unlike our fascinating but hardy experience in Tibet eight years earlier. Steppes East put together an excellent itinerary for us – here it is available for download: Harris – Final itin dep 4 Apr 2010.

We took some great pictures, divided into three albums:

One good story is already up and available – an unexpected cricket match between Tibet and England, with me representing England.  The match was also reported in excruciating detail on King Cricket, a few weeks after the event.

As usual, there are loads of notes waiting to be written up properly. If you are desperate to see them and try to decipher them before I get there – feel free to download and have a go:

 

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), Around Zhongdian, 15 April 2010

Easy day with no touring a.m.

Rose a bit later than usual, relaxed, took a late breakfast, watched movies etc.

Set off at 1400 for Ganden Sumsanling Monastery – an underwhelming monastery in the style of the Potala Palace but with very few monks on show!

Then into Zhongdian/Shangri-La old town – Disney tourism village. Still, walked the lanes, saw the biggest prayer wheel in the world…

…and meandered to Kaibash Restaurant for yak momos, yak & barley, chicken curry, latka, kimchi and veg soup. Early dinner that was – then home for a restful evening after playing on the Internet! Watched some Latin American music history!

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), From Lijiang To Zhongdian, 14 April 2010

Rose quite early, read, finished packing etc.

Light breakfast, check out and off in direction of Tiger Leaping Gorge.

First stop the viewing point and pitstop Xieng Gu – then on to meeting point where we said goodbye to Kuan and hello to Palchen our Tibetan guide.

Then short ride to Tiger Leaping Gorge– very touristic walkway packed with people (S decide closed – perhaps to make it more touristic!)

It started pouring with rain but then the weather improved briefly when we got to the gorge. Still – briefly we saw the stunning gorge.

Then on to Ringha Banyan Tree which is simply lovely – we were upgraded to a spa suite from “suite” and treated like royalty.

Rain returned & turned to snow – freezing buggy ride to restaurant. Have a “Tibetan Hot Pot” – rather touristic implementation of a Yunnanese banquet style served by charming Jay, a Yi dressed as a Tibetan. But wonderful food for the first time in ages so no complaints there!

Ham and black chicken soup with medicinal herbs, prawns, scallops, fish balls, mixed veg, lotus root, chicken, pork, yak slices! The resulting final broths was amazing.

Freezing ride home in the snow!

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), Around Lijiang, 13 April 2010

Ged rose early again – read – then we both looked more photos before super breakfast.

Off after breakfast to Yuhu village to see Dr Rock’s house and some not especially friendly villagers but visited one house.

Then on to Yongfeng monastery with some not especially friendly monks. But the Naxi she dancing ladies were fun and we had a photo opportunity snog in front of the camelia tree.

Then a quick lunch stop (we just had beer) before off to Wenhai lake. Bickered over how much walking to do but got it right in the end (about 90 minutes) friendly village and visited our house.

Then home in gloom – rested, nibbled and watched a DVD – then as the weather improved played tennis.

Evening meal in Cantonese restaurant at Banyan tree – terrible meal – starter of “crispy” goose arrived circa one hour after ordering (soon after prompting), neither crispy nor fully defrosted! Main dishes of chicken sausage rice pot veg and pork ribs very ordinary. Beleaguered Dela was very sweet and attempted to mollify us and other diners!

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), Lijiang, 12 April 2010

This was one of the most photogenic days on this trip – we put more than 100 photos from this day in the album for this part of the trip. I shall pepper this piece with a fair smattering of them.

Years earlier, Janie and I had been transfixed by a documentary series, Beyond The Clouds, about this town, Lijiang. It was broadcast in 1994, soon after our return from our first trip to China. Much had changed in 16+ years of course, but the fascinating grapple between traditional and emerging China was much evident still in 2010.

Both rose early and looked at rest of photos.

Touring started with Zhong Yi vegetable market (and meat etc – everyday local market).

Then walk to the historic old town (including Disneyfied part) which was mostly delightful but [Disneyfied].

Then through part of new town (seeking a chain for Daisy) and on to black dragon pool park – walked all around there and on to museum of Naxi Dongba culture. Then home.

Played tennis in the afternoon (perhaps a bit too early) washed and soon off for early evening of dinner in local restaurant Jiu Qi…

…and then a concert of the Naxi Ancient Music Concert Hall (see ticket/program) were local tourists in front of us. Tried to match the 30+ piece Naxi orchestra’s decibel level.

Gave up on bar crawl idea – crashed early.

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), From Shaxi To Lijiang, 11 April 2010

Early rise – Ged strolls town.

Take breakfast at charming inn [Laomedian Lodge], then go to visit Templeton small museum.

See grand old family house from outside but sadly no one is at home.

Return the car to find one and porter in a state – one has locked his keys inside the car.

Within 45 minutes several experts have helped and half the town has watched a series of dextrous manoeuvers with screwdrivers and wires – success!

2 1/2 hour drive to Lijiang – meet new guide Wang Kuan (Alvin) and say goodbye to Zuay.

Then to Banyan Tree Lijiang. Frustration with the suite meant we didn’t get to properly settled until four-ish.

Then played tennis, checked out restaurants and shops, showered, changed, dined (Japanese eel, pork belly, lamb shank) and checked out the net.

Daisy crashed early, while Ged read. Then both looked at photos for a while.

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), From Dali To Shaxi Via Weishan, 10 April 2010

This was one of the most photogenic days of this holiday. If you really want to luxuriate in this day, it is worth looking at the first 70+ photos in the second Flickr album for this trip:

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Again quite early start including check out (8:30).

South to Weishan – brand new road means this is only just over an hour from Dali.

Lovely well preserved old market town (really just the main strip preserved) – rarely visited by tourists, although the new road might well change all that. We were more watched than watching!

Back to Dali for light lunch at Kaiyi’s Kitchen (still great veg, sticky chicken and sweet) then on north to Shaxi – long drive.

Daisy took snaps of Sha Ping from a distance and zillions of snaps along the way. Ged slept mostly.

Time for an early evening stroll around this charming little town. We are staying in a guesthouse which is one of the old wooden courtyard houses on the main square – charming.

We shower and take a simple meal with pumpkin soup and Taiwan/Fujian style noodles and veg and local wine.

Then to bed with Sweet Tooth cookies!

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), Xizhou, Zhouchen & Dali, 9 April 2010

Again aimed for early start (Ged is not feeling too terrific)

Light breakfast.

Went to Xizhou, a small Bai market town (everyday market). Bought some hemp seeds and took loads of photos there in market.

Also walked through town – visited a couple of old houses (now small apartment complexes).

Then on to Zhouchen village, an even smaller town with every day markets, two banyan trees and a stage. Bought tub for seeds.

Then onto three pagodas – lovely gardens and close look at pagodas – then onto marble factory (shop) for several gift is. Then home.

Brief pitstop then into town for a beer, soup (chicken and mushroom/ham and veg), internet access to tell folks we’re phoneless!

Draw dosh and look at some more shirts and wallets (bought chopsticks and last night’s shirts). Then to Sweet Tooth for coffee and cookies served by deaf but efficient staff.

Back for some R&R and went through copious photos from today before packing a bit, going to Café de Jack where the staff weren’t deaf but sure were dumb! Still charming and sweet.

Ate veg, lasagna, local beer (me), wine (Daisy) and strolled to supermarket before returning home.

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), In & Around Dali, 8 April 2010

Set off at 8:30 in direction of Cangshan Mountains.

Took new cable car (southern end, Austrian bubble)uup the mountain, climb steps for 10 to 15 minutes and then walked 11 km trail through beautiful hills and valleys.

Then took open air cable car from northern end down (old US car).

Returned to Kaiyi’s Kitchen restaurant (sat on upstairs balcony this time) to try local cheese (fried), ham (with shredded veg) and tomato and beef soup (runny Bolognese).

Then off and direction of Lake – no time for marble factory today but we get to boat early enough to get earlier boat.

Rocky ride out! Island okay to explore – basically a Bai fishing village (no pagoda!!)

Then back (felt less rocky – asleep some of the time) and rescue Janie from French with big cameras!

Short rest (mainly spent reviewing photos) then out for the evening – strolled town a bit – admired but didn’t buy shirts.

Went to Bad Monkey, ate Chinese vegetables, sausage, chops and mash! Some beer and wine – bought some wallets etc on stroll around and then home.

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), From Kunming To Dali, 7 April 2010

Rose early for long drive to Dali. Struggled (failed) to get ready “on time” but eventually checked out and headed for Dali.

Bye bye Kunming

Said goodbye to Martin and said hello to May Chan (Zzway Caarn – not tribal) who seems more laid-back.

Settled in [hotel] room briefly then out for compulsory lunch and a stroll around Dali.

Lunch was beef, chicken, spring roll and special request veg soup – a lot of the highlight.

Oh boy, do I go with the furnishings!

Strolled small town Dali – bought CD, saw city walls…

…went to teahouse the full works bought lots of tea.

Organised local meal, then back to base for rest.

Evening in Dali was fun. Meal of papaya chicken, local carp in local source, water convolvulus and rose omelette.

Strolled town, bought map and then relaxed with half bottle of wine (after struggle to open!) in room.

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.