Nicaragua, Overview, Summary and Links, 6 to 23 February 2016

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I think we’re now done with the blog materials from our wonderful trip to Nicaragua.

The best of the photographs are up now as a Flickr album – click here and link through.

The itinerary produced by Ultimate Travel (whom we highly recommend for this sort of thing) can be downloaded on the following link: Harris and Wormleighton final itinerary – Feb 2016.

If you want to read my blog sequentially from the beginning of the trip – then start by clicking here and work forwards.  Well worth the effort in my view.

But those seeking highlights and low-lights, you might find what you are looking for this way:

Don't try saying "La Cuneta" in polite company after two or more rum and cokes
Mondongo by La Cuneta

 

Nicaragua, Eco Logical? – An Aside, 16 February 2016

Before continuing the tale of our travels, a brief aside on eco lodges and our experiences.

We’ve now stayed in two this holiday, Jicaro and Morgan’s Rock. We’ve stayed in a few over the years, though none recently until this holiday.

We’ve always been a bit cynical and sceptical about eco-tourism. After all; there’s nothing very eco-friendly about tourism and something a bit cheesy about hectoring notices in hotels imploring the traveller to help save the planet by accepting fewer bedding and towel changes. as much as anything else, such requests seem to us to do more for hotel’s profits than for the planet.

Indeed, our previous experience of eco lodges; often with a do-goody vibe and everyone eat around the table together like scouts, had for years put us off the idea of staying anywhere boasting that term.

The term “barefoot luxury” is a  similar turn off for us; too often an excuse for ludicrously high prices and ludicrously little to show for the money – more like barefaced larceny. But I digress.

The two Nicaraguan eco lodges we tried, Jicaro and Morgan’s Rock, were both way ahead of our eco lodge experiences of the past. Both have been designed to have a minimally invasive impact on their natural environments and maximum positive impact on local communities, all of which we applaud. In particular, Jicaro struck the right notes for us in almost every respect.

The Morgan’s Rock blurb was a little more old-school eco-preachy. Are you really setting standards of pre-emminence in eco-tourism by feeding all the hotel’s food waste to the animals on your massive hacienda? I seem to recall staying on a farm when I was a nipper (before ecology had even been invented) and learning that such behaviour is simply what all sensible farmers do.

Morgan’s Rock does get one huge tick in the box from me for its superb-sounding extensive programme of slow-growth hardwood forest farming and stewardship. This is very hard to achieve both sustainably and commercially, yet the owners seem to be finding a way, which is laudable and I hope replicable elsewhere.

Both properties fall down in my view on their approach to drinking water. The idea is to avoid lots of plastic bottles – good idea. The Jicaro approach was to invest in a treatment works for the local water and to assure visitors it is safe to drink. It probably was “safe” in a clinical sense, but it tasted funny and my tummy was not quite right during our stay there. I drink a lot of water and it reminded me of the way my tummy used to be in the old “water purification tablets” days of my travelling youth.

The Morgan’s Rock blurb suggseted that their drinking water approach was the same as that at Jicaro, but when I asked about it soon after arrival (I really didn’t fancy another icky three days) was assured that the water in the room was actually Fuente Pura mineral water poured into large serving flagons from giant bottles. I’m not sure how much better that approach is than smaller bottles, especially as, presumably, large quantities of that water are wasted when the flagons are emptied. Either that or unsealed mineral water is sitting around in flagons for an unhealthy period of time before being topped up and drunk.

I realise that all of these hygiene, comfort, convenience and ecology issues make it difficult to get the balance right, but I’m not sure about either approach we encountered this time.

But the big thumbs down award for ecological correctness gone mad goes to Morgan’s Rock, for the following sign placed beside the toilet:

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In case you cannot read it, the sign asks the user of the tolet to place their used toilet paper in the bin rather than in the toilet, as the water is treated for reuse. We find it hard to imagine a much more unhygenic suggestion. Perhaps “share intravenous drug needles to reduce depletion of earth metals and thus help save the planet?”

Daisy and I went into civil disobedience mode immediately at the toilet paper suggestion and did what we considered to be the right thing. (No we did not smear anything on the walls. We simply flushed our used toilet paper.)

When I raised the delicate toilet paper matter on departure, the front desk manager nodded sagely, assured me that a bit of paper down the toilet would not mess up their treatment works and confessed that many of the staff don’t like those signs as so many guests remark about them adversely. You don’t say?

Nicaragua, Jicaro to Morgan’s Rock via Mombacho, 13 February 2016

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An early start this morning, as we have an 8:45 boat to meet our guides and transfer. Our 6:30 coffee comes with the spice cake again – hurrah. We finish our packing and take quite a light breakfast; smoothies again (those are good) and a banana pancake (which seems more like a bun) for me, while Daisy just has toast and banana.

We say goodbye to Jicaro and 15 minutes later are greeted by Edgar and David at the Bahia de Asese and off we go to Mombacho Nature Reserve;  the top of the same volcano we explored lower down yesterday.

Soon three of us (leaving Edgar behind with our vehicle and baggage) transfer into a vehicle I can only describe as a decommissioned miltary-style mass transit truck or bus, which didn’t please me at all as we had been led to expect a private vehicle. This truck thing was incredibly uncomfortable too. David promised to try and arrange something better for our downward journey.

After a couple of minutes to take water and gather ourselves (in truth, for me to gather myself), we set off on our hike.

Not as atmospheric as the lower plantation walk; also more touristic, but there are some beautiful vistas up top and some geological features such as hot holes and a wonderful crevice to walk through and see some craters. Very little wildlife or bird life, which was a bit disappointing, but several species of orchids to keep Daisy happy.

David and Edgar arrange for a private park ranger vehicle going down, which also includes a stop at a small coffee plantation. Down the bottom we see some zip liners before heading off towards Rivas.

On the Pan-American highway, just after Rivas (where we get some surprisingly good local chocolate) we see a couple of howler monkeys on the roadside. Then a little further down a whole colony of howlers. They show off for the cameras.

Then to Morgan’s Rock, where Charlie shows us around and introduces us to several members of his family. They are Caribbean-side Nicas – the first we’ve met.

We choose some light touring for the next couple of days and take a fine dinner comprising chicken and meatball soup for me, celery soup for Daisy, surf and turf special main for both of us and a rum cake desert for both of us too. A nice Chilean Pinot Noir washed that down and might help us to forget about the bugs we’ve seen in our room.

Nicaragua, Jicaro, 12 February 2016

We rise early today, as we have our walk/hike through the plantations at the foot of Mombacho, arranged for an early start to avoid the heat.

We are brought coffee and a delicious spice cake in our casita at 6:30, then go down for breakfast at about 7:20.  Or rather, I go down and order a simple breakfast for both of us.  Smoothies for both, yoghurt, fruit and granola for Daisy, oatmeal for me.

Even then, we find it hard to get away bang on 8:00 but I think we really are away by 8:15. Our guide is Eduardo,who actually works at the resort.

We start off by looking at the lagoon, which is warmed by hot springs. Then we go for a short hike through the dense woods below the cloud forest around to the other side of the lagoon. We see termite nests, birds (but far fewer than on the water) and some amazing butterflys. We also see a large rodent, aguote, that Eduardo assures us tastes delicious; like a cross between rabbit and pork. It’s just as well we are walking this trail quite early; it must get well steamy in the hottest part of the day.

183 Mombacho lagoon P1030121

On the other side we can see the hot springy part of the lagoon and sense that the water is incredibly hot. People swim and kayak there at times, but currently the water is too hot for swimming and too shallow for kayaking. The fault of El Nino, we are told.

We meet some of the farmer’s security folk down there with guns and machetes. We don’t argue with them. Nor, mercifully, do they seem to want to argue with us. Eduardo explains that we are invited and welcome visitors. They give him some alternative trail advice for future reference.

186 Daisy and Eduardo, lower Mombacho P1030125

Then we head uphill a bit, towards the plantain and cocoa plantations. This uphill bit is the hardest part of the walk, especially where there are long stretches without shade, but it is all beautiful.

194 A cocoa plantation P1030133

We see the plantations, then hike back down, with some difficulty as the stony trail seems a bit more slippery when you are hiking down it. A good discussion about Nicaragua’s revolutionary history and remaining political problems makes that part of the hike pass quickly. Then a celebratory soft drink while waiting for our boat in a shady pavilion at the end of the walk.

It was a super hike; not quite as photogenic as the boat trip but in many ways more atmospheric and wonderfully peaceful.

Back early enough to shower and take lunch; I started with a chayote greek salad while Daisy started with a red bean hummus.  Then Daisy had the Jicaro burger (which was basically a cheeseburger) while I tried some garlic prawn tacos. Good shrimp, as everyone seems to say about Nicaragua.

Then a restful afternoon; short siesta, writing, playing with photos and reading.

Dinner comprised:

  • carrot soup for Daisy;
  • quesillo (a type of cheese) tortilla with sour cream for me;
  • Spicy shrimps with brown rice for Daisy;
  • Fish (I had asked for guacote, which I think it was, as it was earthy, but I was told it was tilapia again);
  • chocolate cake for Daisy, passion fruit sorbet for/me.

We were both tired and ready to sleep early.

Nicaragua, Jicaro, 11 February 2016

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We have opted for a mostly relaxing day today, with just a bird-watching boat trip late afternoon. It dawns on me at dawn that the volcano hike I booked, for tomorrow, sounds eerily familiar; indeed when I check our itinerary I realise that we are being taken on that walk as part of our transfer to Morgan’s Rock on Saturday. Five minutes at the reception/activities desk and it is no problem to switch to a plantation hike/walk for Friday instead.

Meanwhile Daisy toys with the idea of joining the 8:00 yoga class…and then decides that an earlier breakfast is a more enticing idea. Daisy had an omelette while Ged, feeling just a little icky, had a variation on French toast. We both had some crispy bacon on the side.

We relax by the pool after breakfast; everyone else seems to be checking out or off doing morning activities, so we really have the place to ourselves all morning.  It is easy to find sunny and shady spots; from around 10:30 shady is the order of the day. Good chance to read, drink some king coconut water and generally rest up.

We weren’t very hungry for lunch, but managd to force down some gazpachio soup (cucumber in my case, tomato in Daisy’s) followed by a small plate of vigaron (pork with yukka) for Daisy and a chicken sandwich thing for me. Then a short siesta before our bird boat tour.

The bird boat tour around the islets was a real highlight – even my dislike of boats was mitigated by the extraordinary sight of so many exotic birds in those wetlands and the lake, I’ll upload some photos, a link to many photos and a scan of the birdie leaflet when we get home.

Returned to dry land at sundown to shower and get ready for dinner.  Dinner was excellent again:

  • crab soup with great chunks of fish for me;
  • Daisy can’t remember hers but it will probably come back to her – ah yes, a review of the menu reminds her that she had an eggplant parmesan thingie (normally a veggie main) as a starter-sized portion;
  • Daisy followed with a tasty chicken leg dish in a sort of caramilised rum sauce;
  • I had a spare rib dish, the pork had a sort of guava-based glaze;
  • I ended the meal with a sorbet, while Daisy declined.

Another very enjoyable day draws to its inevitable end.

 

Nicaragua, Leon to Jicaro via Granada, 10 February 2016

We rise and take breakfast a little earlier today, as Guillermo is due at 8:30 to take us touring and on to our next destination.  Similar breakfast to previous days, with some convention delegates around us, replacing the large US tour from the previous couple of days.

Guillermo rings up before 8:00, which we try not to let faze us; in any case we are both ready around about 8:30, by which time I have chatted with Guillermo and also with Edgar and David who are there for other guests today.

First stop; a primary school just outside Leon where we meet teachers, the principal and of course loads of kids. There are just about enough pens to go around here; one per kid. Guillermo is involved with a charity, World Challenge, that has worked with this school before and he knows they need the pens!

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Then a long drive to Masaya, a very pretty, colourful little town but what turns out to be an uber-touristic market.  On the outskirts of town (before we reach the market) we stop at a viewing point for Laguna de Masaya and see vultures and also a Panamanian hostel proprietor, ex US military, on vacation himself. We see him again at the market and we debate who is following whom around. I defer to his judgment that we are following him around on the grounds that he’s much bigger than me and ex military. He says that I made a wise decision.

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The market temporarily spoils my mood, as does the next viewing point in the “”white village”” of Catarina, overlooking Laguna de Apoyo, with its cafe touts and very touristic atmosphere. We (Janie, me, Guillermo) quickly take juice, Coke and lemonade respectively up there after seeing and photographing the view.

Then on to San Juan de Oriente, a very pretty village with beautiful nurseries which we view and photograph from a distance. We stop at a traditional pottery-making outfit and watch the son of the potter, who claims to be no use at pottery, start to make a pot.  The master potter turns up towards the end and we buy some little nick-nack ceramic bird-whistle things for little Penny.

Then on to Granada, where we start at Le Merced but cannot climb the tower because it is closed, then on to and through some other historic buildings and round to the cathedral, where we see the new ceiling paintings being done, then (although we are pretty churched-out by now) on to El Convento San Fransisco where again (perhaps mercifully) almost everything is closed.  Guillermo seems upset for us, despite our insistence that we really don’t mind. Perhaps he is upset for our souls.

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Then we get hold of the final CD for my collection; to include some Nicaraguan/Carribean style music, in particular Dimension Costena, which Guillermo manages to source on the street for us. Then we stock up with water and down to the pier (or, as it turns out, the marina) to pick up our boat transfer to Jicaro Lodge and say goodbye to Guillermo.

We meet a quartet of young Americans on the boat; it seems that Jicaro is mostly populated with those (judging also by the friendly youngsters who greet us around the pool) so our role is to bring up the average age of the clientele and add a little English class to this English-owned property, not least through the dulcet tones of Benjy, my baritone ukulele, of course.

Jicaro looks lovely – Nubia spends about 45 minutes orienting us and we choose our sumptuous-sounding dinner.  Sumptuous indeed it was:

  • chayote (a “cucumber-like thing” but with more flavour – transpires it is actually a water squash) & papaya salad with lime, dried fruit and mint starter for me;
  • fresh watermmelon with feta, balsemic and basil starter for Daisy;
  • baked tilapia with rice and vegetables for me;
  • seared red snapper with papaya and grapefruit compote with brown rice and vegetables for Daisy;
  • chocolate cake thingie for Daisy;
  • frozen banana with chocolate and cashew for me;
  • all washed down with a fine organic biowhateveryoucallit sauvignon blanc wine.

I give Benjy a good go, for a while before dinner and then a longer thrash afterwards, by the end of which Daisy has long since gone to bed.