A Week In Mallorca At La Residencia, 8 to 15 March 1998

La Residencia seen from the hills above

We weren’t supposed to be spending a week in Mallorca. We were supposed to be spending two weeks in Burma and a week in Malaysia. But we deferred our planned trip until the autumn, due to Janie’s twin, Phillie’s indisposition. The compromise was to take this short break in early spring, between Phillie’s initial surgery and the start of her myriad of follow-up ops and treatments.

Janie had read only good things about La Residencia, which at that time was owned by Richard Branson and managed by one of his tip-top teams. It is now part of an up-market chain and might well have a different vibe.

We loved the place.

The bedroom came with a guard bear named Julio, who you can just about see guarding from above in the next picture:

The bathroom had a rubber duck.

We respectfully left the bear and duck in situ at La Residencia, but subsequently have always had at least one duck in our main home. As for a bear, we had for some years had a bear, named Geddy The Teddy, but he went to stay with Phillie to keep her company when she was in hospital later that year and stayed with Phillie henceforward. Then Kim arranged for Hippity to join us and the rest is history:

…but I digress.

I didn’t keep a log on this holiday but we did shoot a roll of film each, 32 of which are labelled and set out in the Flickr album below:

02 La Residencia - front of hotel M_1998_G_Photo33_5A

While about half of those grace this article.

We played tennis pretty much every day (I think we were rained off one day), including, unusually for us, a couple of sessions with the wonderful coach there, George. Yes, really he was called George. We learned quite a lot from him in a short period of time. Gentle instruction and lots of encouragement.

We had hired a car for this trip, although we didn’t use it all that much, only going out for the day a couple of times plus one or two short trips in the vicinity of our village, Deià.

Stunning vistas near our hotel in the North-West of Mallorca

Vistas on the Sóller to Deià road

We chose to go out on the less-good weather days. Sensible in a way, but we nearly lost our lives on a long-and-winding hillside road between Deià and Palma, when, despite my low speed, I completely lost control of the car for a while on the slippery road surface. After our return, I raised this matter with a Mallorcan employee/colleague, Teresa Bestard, who was working with Z/Yen at that time.

Oh, yes, I know that treacherous patch of road. We locals call it “Dead Man’s Curve”.

Palma on a wet day but at least we were still in one piece

We also visited Cala Major, where we visited Joan Miró‘s place:

View from Joan Miró‘s place (above) & Joan Miró‘s studio (below)
Joan Miró‘s prickly garden

We also did a little bit of tourism around our locality, Deià. Not much to see, but Robert Graves settled and lived there for most of his life.

Existential nominative determinism: Robert Graves’s grave

La Residencia from the hills above

But mostly we hung out at La Residencia, playing tennis, eating a good breakfast, nibbling light at lunchtime (perhaps beer and nuts), enjoying the pool and eating in one of the fine restaurants at La Residencia – a place that people would visit from far and wide for one of the restaurants.

Poolside – bliss

Dining in Béns d’Avall – bliss

Fine dining in El Olivo – bliss

It was just a week-long break, taken in strained circumstances, but we both have very happy memories of this short holiday.

Not About Nightingales by Tennessee Williams, Cottesloe Theatre, 7 March 1998

Janie and I were quite excited about this one.

In the summer of 1996 (or was it spring 1997?), we had spent a Sunday on the Thames, on Michael & Elisabeth’s Thames sailing barge, The Lady Daphne, along with, amongst others, Trevor Nunn & Imogen Stubbs. Trevor was busy reading an early Tennessee Williams script, Not About Nightingales, which had never been performed in the UK. Despite not being among Williams best work, Trevor suggested to us the play had a lot going for it. He was thinking of putting it on at the Royal National Theatre once he became Artistic Director there. I think his appointment had been announced but Trevor had not yet taken up the role when we met him.

Anyway, we were very keen to see the finished product once the production was announced and booked to see it at the start of its run.

The only critic who really matters here on Ogblog…me…wrote:

Powerful stuff – not a great play but very well executed.

I especially remember Finbar Lynch and Corin Redgrave putting in standout performances.

Charles Spencer in The Telegraph seemed to like it:

Nightingales Spencer TelegraphNightingales Spencer Telegraph 09 Mar 1998, Mon The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Susannah Clapp in The Observer was not so convinced:

Nightingales Clapp ObserverNightingales Clapp Observer 08 Mar 1998, Sun The Observer (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

John Gross in The Sunday Telegraph was quite keen:

08 Mar 1998, Sun Sunday Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Nicholas de Jongh in The Standard seemed particularly taken with it.

Nightingales de Jongh StandardNightingales de Jongh Standard 06 Mar 1998, Fri Evening Standard (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Don’t ask me how or why we had the stomach for this violent play but not for Shopping & F***ing the week before. Perhaps the violence seemed less gratuitous. Perhaps the way it was produced/directed.

Perhaps because we were demob happy – although we had cancelled our main spring holiday plans because of Phillie’s indisposition, we had decided to take a week off an go to Majorca for some much needed rest. We flew off early the next morning.