An Afternoon Of Art At Tate Britain: Van Gogh and Don McCullin, 1 April 2019

From Tate Britain Exhibition Area – click image for all that relevant Tate Britain information

We wanted to see both the Don McCullin and the Van Gogh exhibitions, so we booked out an afternoon soon after the latter opened. It timed well also with the Middlesex County Cricket Club AGM that evening.

As Janie commented afterwards, being a member of the Tate is no longer a great advantage viz-a-viz getting to see major exhibitions at a quiet time…unless you take advantage of the “early Sunday morning” option.

Still, I think mid afternoon on a Monday was about as good as it is going to get with the Van Gogh, certainly for the early weeks of its run, as he is such a popular artist and this is such a major retrospective on him.

Last featured at the Tate in 1947 (I’ll guess that my dad will have gone to that one as he was studying art at that time), Van Gogh returns to Tate Britain after all these years in a show designed to illustrate how much Van Gogh was influenced by British artists of the late 19th century and how much he in turn influenced British artists of the 20th century.

Janie and I found some of the connections a little tenuous and felt that there were rather too many second rate British works on show. I guess the curators want the exhibition to look big and perhaps they want to show the Van Gogh works for what they are – truly exceptional examples.

Janie and I are also blessed with having had the opportunity to see a great many Van Gogh works around the place; not only those that reside in London but also in New York, Paris and Amsterdam. I shall be writing up my 1989 culture-vulturedom in Amsterdam quite soon, as we approach the 30th anniversary of that visit; the Van Gogh Museum was for sure on of the highlights then. Many works from that venue are on show in London at the moment.

Here is another link to the Van Gogh materials on the Tate site (the Van Gogh picture also has the link).

The Battle for the City of Hue, South Vietnam, US Marine Inside Civilian House 1968, printed 2013 Don McCullin born 1935 ARTIST ROOMS Tate and National Galleries of Scotland. Purchased with the assistance of the ARTIST ROOMS Endowment, supported by the Henry Moore Foundation and Tate Members 2014 http://www.tate.org.uk/art/work/AR01196. Click the above picture to see the Tate Britain on-line resources for the Don McCullin exhibition.

I had been especially excited about seeing the Don McCullin since I first read about it; I have long admired his photography but never seen a whole load of it assembled in one place.

This exhibition, a major retrospective on his life’s work, is quite exceptional. McCullin’s early work documents the grimier side of North and east London in the 1950s. Even from those early photographs McCullin’s extraordinary talent for framing and use of light in black and white photography shines through.

He is best known for his international photography, documenting wars and natural disasters, mostly in the 1960s and 1970s. Many of the works are harrowing but they are always respectful of their subjects and informative rather than judgemental.

Some of his later work is quite brilliant too. Janie and I especially enjoyed seeing his photos from the South Omo valley in Ethiopia, which McCullin visited only a year or so before we did. I’m sure I recognised one of the Karo tribesman McCullin had photographed as one of the young men who welcomed us at a Karo village.

Bit hard to tell from the back of his head

Here is another copy of the link to the Don McCullin exhibition resources on the Tate site.

After the Tate, Janie and I went on to Lord’s for the Middlesex AGM and a very pleasant drinks part afterwards, rounding off a thoroughly enjoyable day.

Message to art lovers though – both of these exhibitions, Van Gogh and Don McCullin, are top notch. Well worth a visit to Tate Britain for either or especially both.

RBG, Curzon Home Cinema, 25 February 2019

Janie and I saw a trailer for this movie several times over “Twixtmas”, when we went to the Curzon to see several films.

Ruth Bader Ginsburg (RBG) is a member of the US Supreme Court, was an iconic equal rights lawyer in the 1970s and remains a very interesting character. This is a documentary film about her.

It didn’t open until January and we didn’t get around to going to see it, but i did notice that it was available for us to watch at home on Curzon Home Cinema, which we are eligible for at a modest hire price through my membership.

Now that we have a little Tivo thingie for the Noddyland bedroom TV as well as the living room one, we decided to watch this movie through streaming at home.

Here’s the trailer.

It was a very interesting film.

Here’s a link to the IMDb material on this film.

We’d certainly recommend the film and also the Curzon streaming service if you are a member and your internet/cable set up is good enough to take it. We’ll be watching more Curzon films at home rather than shlepping out to documentary movies from now on, I’m sure.

David Wellbrook’s Performance Piece At Rohan Candappa’s Inaugural Threadmash, Gladstone Arms, 5 February 2019

David Wellbrook (standing) loudly performing, Rohan Candappa (seated) quietly reading

Many thanks to David for allowing me to publish his performance piece as a guest piece on Ogblog. The version below is not only a thoroughly enjoyable piece, but it also explains the context to Rohan’s show, which means that I don’t have to write that bit.

The story in David’s performance piece is not included in David’s delicious short book, My Good Friend, which I tried and failed to review on Amazon much earlier this year:

Anyway, here is David’s Threadmash piece on clothing:

From my perspective, it all began with a photograph that I had stumbled across whilst clearing out some old stuff a few months ago. It was taken in 1978 at Chris Grant’s sister’s wedding and depicts four young men for whom the word “fashion” was no more than a theoretical concept to be explored by others.

The excellent Rohan Candappa, author of numerous best-selling titles, and now Edinburgh Festival stalwart, decided than an evening of story-telling, with a theme around fashion, would be a good idea, upstairs at a London pub on a wet Tuesday evening in February.

And lo, it was so. There we all were. Nine of us, with stories to tell.
Rohan decided that I would go on first. “You’re the Status Quo of our Live Aid extravaganza,” he assured me, giving my left buttock a gentle squeeze.

“Whatever you want,” I replied, “whatever you like.”

And so, with my “just-in-time” reflections, this is what I said:
Good evening Ladies and Gentlemen. Hopefully you all have an envelope. (I had handed out a number of envelopes by this point.) Please resist the temptation to open the envelope just yet because my piece is entitled “The Story Behind the Photograph” and indeed within that envelope, almost as if it was planned, is the photograph in question. Now, you may find the photograph amusing in it’s own right, who could blame you, but you will have no context and in this instance, context is important. As the famous Italian philosopher Rigatoni Tortellini, once said, and I believe I’m translating from the original Hebrew, “Contexti esti importanti.”

I might have just made that bit up.

Anyhow, The Story Behind the Photograph:

Rohan has dragged me…invited me along here this evening to talk to you about the thorny subject of fashion and how, in the wrong hands, these hands, it can all go cataclysmically wrong. As you can tell from my underpants, I take fashion very seriously. I always have and I suspect I always will.

But where to begin? Marianne was seven years older than us and by a strange quirk of arithmetic and no one having died, she still is seven years older than us. Marianne is also my mate Chris’s big sister. (It was fortunate that Chris was in attendance as I now had someone to blame). My mate Chris has two big sisters and Marianne is the bigger of the two. Certainly in terms of age. She’s seven years older than us as I think I might have mentioned.

But what has this got to do with fashion you may ask?

(I waited a few moments at this stage and as if by magic, everyone shouted:
“BUT WHAT HAS THIS GOT TO DO WITH FASHION?”)

Well, since you’re so kind as to ask, let me explain. Marianne decided to get married. To Alan. I had met Alan several times before and despite originating from north of the Watford gap he seemed like a decent sort of chap. He, Marianne and Chris had managed to get me drunk a year earlier, and at the tender age of fifteen, had dumped me on my parents’ doorstep, had rung the doorbell, and had FUCKED OFF. Not that I bear grudges you understand.
With their nuptials fast approaching, I was invited to Marianne and Alan’s wedding (an expression of guilt if ever there was one), along with Chris’s three other friends, Ben, Nigel and Paddy Gray. Chris may very well have more than four friends, but I’ve never met them.

So, and my point is, at sixteen years of age, what to wear to the wedding of someone seven years older than us? I’m obviously looking at this from a singularly personal perspective, and I’m sure Ben, Nigel and even Paddy Gray suffered an equal number of sleepless nights dwelling on the same dilemma.

I didn’t own a suit, other than the suit I wore to school. I didn’t own a dress either, and although I could drag up quite impressively, to wear a dress I didn’t even own at someone else’s wedding, seemed a little self-indulgent. No one wishes to upstage the bride now do they?

So, what to wear? I went through my wardrobe and having come out the other side, concluded that there was very little of interest in there. C.S. Lewis had promised so much and yet had delivered so very little. At this point I would normally insert a scathing joke about Brexit but I fear I would alienate 51.9% of the audience. If I haven’t already.

So, like most 16 year olds vexed by a matter of clothing, I turned to my parents. Unfortunately, they had already left the room, and so I had to wait a good three or four hours before they came back in again.

“What’s up with you?” they said realising that I was still there.

“I’m worrying about Chris’s sister’s wedding on Saturday?” I cried.

“I have simply nothing to wear.”

In all matters costumery, my parents would often defer to Mr. Schindler. Mr. Schindler was a family friend who owned a gentleman’s outfitters. He was a kindly old man as I recall with a beautifully waxed Hercule Poirot moustache, and a lisp. Mr. Schindler bore his speech impediment with a stoicism that was no doubt forged by his own wartime heroics, and, you know, much like his more illustrious namesake, Oskar Schindler, I’ve always hoped that someone, someday would make a film about Schindler’s lisp.

(There was some genuine laughter at this rather contrived gag, but the groans of comedic pain knocked me onto the defensive).

Look, (I said), this is a cracking joke. (I feigned disgust at the lack of appreciation for such a beautifully crafted punchline). In 2009 I did this joke at the Cheltenham Womens’ Institute and, you know, one woman fainted she was laughing so much. This is possibly the funniest joke in the whole piece. Umm…I might have peaked early just so you all know. It may be all downhill from here…

(I cracked on)…

Anyway, not entirely trusting the wise words of Mr. Schindler, I decided to have a ring around. With a phone. We didn’t have texts in 1978. We had Teletext which was altogether something quite different and we had telex which had a similar number of letters and also an ‘x’, but we didn’t have texts. So, the phone it was. I rang Ben.

(Ben, by the way, was sitting in the front row, and could clearly see where all this was going).

“What are you wearing on Saturday?” I asked. It was a sensible question to start with as it was the only reason I was ringing.

Ben ummed and aahed a bit and then said: “Probably my blue leather jacket with Chelsea tie to match.”

I briefly considered Ben in church with nothing on other than a blue leather jacket with Chelsea tie to match and so I very quickly rang Nigel.

“Light brown three piece suit in wool,” he replied to much the same question as I had thrown at Ben. Nigel was probably the sensible one amongst us four, which kind of speaks volumes for the rest of us.

I rang Paddy Gray. “Pad the Lad”, announced that he would be wearing his big brother’s work suit because the wedding was on a Saturday and his big brother didn’t work at the weekend. I wasn’t at all sure what Paddy’s big brother actually did for a living, but prayed he wasn’t a professional clown, a waitress or the rear end of a pantomime horse.

None of this actually got me any further but it wasn’t really until Friday lunchtime that I began to panic. Mr. Schindler had tried to fob me off with a blue pinstripe suit which he assured me would look really good for work if I was ever kicked out of school early. Mr. Schindler clearly new his clientele.

I went through my wardrobe again and much like my previous journey there was no lion or even a witch, but what I did find was a brown and white striped shirt with white collar, a huge velvet brown bowtie, a pair of green synthetic flared trousers and some brown cowboy boots. Put all this together with my fawn coloured print jacket and they’ll still be speaking about me in forty years time, I thought.

I put it all on. It looked horrendous. “Perfect,” I decided. But actually, there was still something missing.

I rang my girlfriend.

“Can I borrow your school boater for tomorrow’s wedding?” I asked.

“Of course you can,” she replied, clearly either very much in love with me, or not worrying one way or the other whether I looked like a complete cock or not.

So, come the big day, there we all were. Chris looked me up and down and shook his head, not for the first time and certainly not for the last. “Have you been experimenting with the old wacky backy?” he asked.

“No,” I replied, “this is all my own work.”

The wedding, by contrast, went off without incident. Ben’s blue leather jacket with matching Chelsea tie escaped unhurt, Nigel’s light brown three piecer survived unharmed, and Paddy Gray’s big brother’s business suit caused no major international terrorist alert.

Not that that could be said for my brown and white striped shirt with white collar, huge velvet brown bowtie, green synthetic flares, cowboy boots and printed jacket. The boater, which I had chosen to wear at a jaunty angle, proved to be something of a hit however and I’m led to believe that many of the guests were heard to comment on my bravery in wearing such an outfit in public.

Now, many of you here this evening, will question the veracity of what I’ve been talking about. Particularly those of you that know me. I have in the past been accused of exaggeration, of hyperbole, of low perbole, and indeed all manner of perbole. But somebody took a photograph that day, and so in those envelopes is evidence, evidence ladies and gentlemen of the jury, of a young man’s desire to shock, to stand out from the crowd, to present himself as a fashion icon for the 70s; a match for such luminaries as Mick Jagger, Bryan Ferry and Arthur Mullard. Feel free to open the envelopes and marvel at the vestmental mayhem.

(Envelopes by this point had begun to open and a mixture a gasps, laughs and general disbelief filled the room).

How I was ever allowed out of the house dressed in such a fashion remains a mystery to me. I suspect social services cannot be alerted retrospectively particularly after forty years and so I’ll need to cope with the emotional fallout in my own way. But all is not lost. As you can see from the photograph, there appears to be a shaft of sunlight cascading down from the heavens illuminating my bowtie, and so I shall have to console myself with the knowledge that at least somebody up there loved me.

Feel free to keep the photo. Use it as a bookmark. A coffee table coaster. Show it to your friends and neighbours and use it as a warning against ignoring the advice of old men with lisps and recreational drug use.

Thank you all very much.

(I made an exaggerated bow and exited stage left, to raucous applause and a general relief that it was all over).

Pierre Bonnard The Colour Of Memory & Anni Albers, Tate Modern, 22 January 2019

Janie and I had a super day at the Tate Modern, primarily for the members’ preview of the Pierre Bonnard exhibition.

It runs until 6 May 2019, so you have plenty of time to get to see this exhibition if you are looking at this article reasonably fresh. And in our opinion it really is well worth seeing. Comprehensive coverage of the work of this wonderful artist from the first half of the 20th century.

Here is the Tate Modern resource on this exhibition.

They let you take pictures at the Tate Modern these days and Janie most certainly went for it:

The painter of happiness, he was known as. We weren’t quite so sure about Pierre Bonnard’s personal life, which seemed to get complicated (to say the least) at times and resulted in the suicide of one of his mistresses – not so much happiness there – it might have been a better deal to be his dog:

But if you ignored artists of his generation because of doubts regarding their personal lives, you wouldn’t see much 19th or even 20th century art.

Here is a lovely little video about the exhibition:

If that video doesn’t make you want to see the exhibition…it’s not an exhibition for you!

We spent longer in that exhibition than normal, because it was so good, so we decided to get some refreshment next. The main members cafe was heaving with people (I suppose it was a preview day), so we went into the new extension to try the cafe in there – which hadn’t even opened when we went for the members early look at that building.

We were surprised to find that this new cafe is named Granville-Grossman Members Room, after Renee Granville-Grossman, a major benefactor to the Tate. She and her late husband were clients of Janie’s for many years. There we ate some lunch in far quieter surroundings than the heaving main members cafe.

After that, we returned to the main building to take a quick look at the Anni Albers exhibition which closes in a few days time.

Here is a link to the Anni Albers resource on the Tate Modern site.

Janie got her camera out again – although this one was not so interesting to us there were some eye-catching exhibits nonetheless.

In summary, a thoroughly interesting and enjoyable day at the Tate Modern, especially, for us, the Pierre Bonnard.

Just in case you want to see all 18 photos, below is a link to the Flickr album that has them all:

Three Identical Strangers, Curzon Bloomsbury, 1 January 2019

This is a very interesting movie; in some ways an entertaining documentary and in other ways disturbing/thought-provoking.

It is the true story of identical siblings who were separated at birth as part of an ill-conceived scientific experiment and who become reunited in their late teens by happenstance.

You can find lots of material about the film and the true story behind it by clicking this link.

Here is the UK version of the movie trailer:

Janie and I like to catch up with documentary movies over the seasonal break – we’d already seen three earlier in the holiday:

While the other films we saw this season were all very interesting, both about the people involved and the issues those people encountered in their lives, Three Identical Strangers was deeper in that it made us think about a great many hugely important issues, ranging from medical ethics to the nature verses nurture debate.

The movie is extremely well made. It avoids the pitfall of trying to be too conclusive whereas, in reality, part of the fascination and tragedy of the story is that it isn’t and could never have been conclusive.

Janie and I saw the movie early evening and then spent the rest of the evening debating the issues. Highly recommended.

Winter Draws On & A Plethora Of Powerful Women, Twixtmas 2018

Janie and I had (are having) ample opportunity to play tennis over the holiday season this year. The weather is dull but basically dry and warm enough to enable us to play.

The majority of our contests have been draws. Of the eight contests we’ve had over the holiday season so far (as I write on 31 December), five have ended undecided as 5-5 draws. Until today the completed sets sat at 1-1. Today I managed to win the set, but was down in the second set when we agreed we’d had enough.

Picture from Nemu in Japan last month – imagine that racket spped

Janie is playing powerfully these days and is also mixing up her play to put me off my rhythm.

And talking of powerful women…

…our traditional Curzon film fest over Twixtmas has been a veritable powerful women fest.

The first actually did not require a trip to the Curzon, because Janie managed to secure the last copy of the DVD for the Kusama – Infinity movie when we went, a couple of weeks ago, to the Yayoi Kusama exhibition at the Victoria Miro – click here or below for the story of that visit.

Yayoi Kusama’s story really is fascinating, as is her art. The more perceptive Ogblog readers might have observed a sample of her infinity work taking over the look of Ogblog in the past week or so.

Actually we were glad to have the DVD rather than a cinema viewing of this one – as the subtitles were a bit difficult to read at times and tended to move on ridiculously quickly on some occasions, so we were grateful for the chance to scroll back and make sure we had assimilated the wise words.

Here is the official trailer for that movie:

The DVD is still available (just not from Victoria Miro) – e.g. from Amazon.

28th December we went, after work, to the Curzon Bloomsbury to see Matangi/Maya/M.I.A. Frankly, we hadn’t heard of rapper and activist Mathangi Arulpragasam, aka M.I.A. but thought her story and the description of the movie sounded fascinating.

Here is the official trailer for that movie:

It is a fascinating movie. Elements of the film go to the heart of debates about activism around complex causes. Other elements are almost comedic documentary, such as the apparently infamous incident where M.I.A. “gives the finger” to camera when performing for the Superbowl and kicks off a massive controversy – that bit reminded me more of Spinal Tap than Joan Baez or Pussy Riot.

Slightly strange mix of audience at the Curzon too. Mostly younger people who clearly have an affinity with M.I.A. as a contemporary singer, with a smattering of (how do I put this politely?) somewhat older-looking folk, like ourselves, who were probably there for the human rights more than the music. The fussy white-haired lady on our row of the Dochouse seemed to have come straight from “human-rights-activist central casting”.

The movie was well worth seeing.

30 December we returned to the Curzon Bloomsbury to see the movie about Hedy Lamarr.

Here is the official trailer of Bombshell: The Hedy Lamarr Story:

I had read quite a lot about this one and it is a fascinating tale. Not only her achievements as an inventor of information & communications technology but also the way she completely changed (some would say reinvented) her life after escaping from Austria in the troubled 1930s. I had previously read about her scientific inventions but, before seeing the movie, I had no idea that she was born and raised Jewish nor that her first marriage was to an Austrian armaments manufacturer who had sold weapons to Hitler.

As with all three of these movies, I couldn’t completely buy in to the “powerful woman who have been denied their rightful credit” story. All three of these women are, unquestionably, to some extent, victims of injustice. Hedy Lamarr by all accounts should have benefited from her patent on frequency-hopping (or spread spectrum) telecommunications. But then, so should her co-inventor, George Antheil – he remains even less remembered for the invention that Hedy Lamarr. It is also a huge stretch to attribute all of the value in GPS, Bluetooth and Wifi to the technology in that patent.

In truth, all three of the powerful women in these movies have benefited from their beauty and charisma, while also being held back from some of the credit that might have accrued to their efforts had they been men or had they arrived at their achievements from more conventional routes.

But then, even Janie’s powerful tennis comes from an unusual source these days…

…anyway, my excuse is that it is difficult to concentrate on getting the ball back time and time again, when you know that the power and balance in Janie’s shots is being cultivated by such unconventional tennis preparation:

Making my head spin…

This will be my last posting for 2018 – happy new year to those Ogblog readers who follow Ogblog contemporarily.

Yayoi Kusama, The Moving Moment When I Went To The Universe, Victoria Miro, Preceded By The British Library, 19 December 2018

Janie started to obsess about Yayoi Kusama before we went to Japan, as Janie had heard about Kusama’s new gallery in Tokyo and how impossible it was to get in there. We tried. We failed.

We even discussed Kusama with some art loving Brits, “Mr & Mrs Tinker”, while travelling between Tsumagao and Takyama and tried, without success, to book from a Japanese railway platform this Victoria Miro exhibition for our return to London. It was sold out. Failed again.

But then our Yayoi Kusama luck changed. We found an excellent exhibition of her work in Kyoto which we could get in to see – click here or below for the story of that day – we saw the Kusama late that day.

Then, a couple of weeks after our return from Japan, Janie learnt through a client that the Victoria Miro Yayoi Kusama exhibition had been extended and that a few of those extra timed slots might still be available. Janie called me excitedly and we managed, at pretty high speed, to find a suitable slot in our diaries, thus grabbing one of those few remaining Victoria Miro slots.

Janie got to the flat well early that afternoon so we decided to stop off at the British Library along the way – Janie had never seen the place. We had a quick look around the Sir John Ritblat rooms – Treasures Of The British Library, taking in some beautiful old books from around the world, plus the Magna Carta.

Then we took some refreshment at the library before heading off for our early evening Yayoi Kusama appointment at Wharf Road.

A pretty strict appointment it is too. While the team at Victoria Miro are pretty relaxed about people wandering around the open exhibition rooms and the garden, the small infinity room exhibit is done on a timed entry with each pair given precisely one minute to walk around the room and look/take pictures.

Actually the whole show is one of those experiences for which the maxim “a picture can tell a thousand words” applies, so I’m going to stop writing and instead show a dozen or so of the pictures we took – the first two being from that infinity room:

Two other aspects of this exhibition really delighted both of us, especially Janie. Firstly, the limited edition book, the purchase of which was effectively the deal through which we got our exhibition tickets. The book has wonderful pictures of all the exhibits – Janie expects to enjoy dipping into that book from her metaphorical coffee table for some time to come.

Secondly, we managed to procure the very last copy Victoria Miro had of the DVD Yayoi Kusama: Infinity – thanks to helpful Ayley at Wharf Road for holding that back for us. As it happens, at the time of writing that DVD is widely available – only a few clicks away. Still, we have our copy in hand and are looking forward to watching it over the seasonal break ahead. It looks like a fascinating documentary about Kusama’s life and work.

In short, we had a very enjoyable experience – we felt fortunate and privileged to have seen this show. We celebrated back at the flat, suitably enough, with a Japanese meal from the new Eat Tokyo place that has just opened up on Notting Hill Gate.

If the above dozen photos isn’t enough for you, you can see all 89 photos we took at the exhibition on the following Flickr album:

Subtle, Japan House, Followed By Less Subtle Party At Brian Eno’s Studio, 10 December 2018

Janie and I had planned a day off that Monday anyway, so Brian Eno’s seasonal bash shifting to the Monday worked well for us – a rare opportunity for Janie to join in that fun.

We had been keen to see Japan House in Kensington since we learned of its arrival in London:

Even better, there was an exhibition to see that day: SUBTLE: Delicate or Infinitesimal TAKEO PAPER SHOW, so we went to see that exhibition ahead of the party.

It was well worth seeing – many different artists displaying subtle ideas about making art from, or at least enhanced by, paper.

Then on to Brian’s party. I was keen to get there in good time to join in the singing. This is not seasonal singing but it is an opportunity to join in with Brian’s rather excellent a capella choir. A mixture of old and modern songs, carefully honed week in, week out by the regulars, who largely manage to prevent keen irregulars like me from ruining the sound.

Plenty of time for some eating, drinking and chatting – as usual with Brian’s parties, we chatted with several very pleasant and interesting people – before the dancing started in earnest. Janie is never a wall flower when there is a chance to dance and I knew that Brian’s choice of music is mostly right up Janie’s street.

Two very tiring hours later, Janie and I thought we should make our excuses and go – we both had work in the morning and felt we had left it all out on the dance floor by then. Good times.

Klimt/Schiele and Oceania, Royal Academy, 16 November 2018

Janie booked us in to a late night Friday slot for the Klimt/Schiele exhibition ages ago – it seemed like a good idea for a show we wanted to see as soon after our return from Japan as possible.

The following little video explains the thinking behind the show.

What we had both forgotten, of course, is that the days of “late night Friday at the RA” being one of the best kept secrets in London are now over. Instead of it being an opportunity to see the exhibitions in a relatively relaxed and congestion-free atmosphere, late night Fridays are now “a thing” and the place is more crowded than at other times.

The RA Image Library for the show – click here – shows several of the highlights.

Before we went to Japan, I had spotted that the RA also had the Oceania exhibition on still in November and had made a mental note that it would be good to see that show on the same evening…

…but I didn’t make a pen or pencil note and had plain forgotten about it…

…until Janie, helpfully, sent me a message on the morning of our visit, suggesting that we get to the RA early enough to take in the Oceania exhibition ahead of the Klimt/Schiele.

Now that’s what I call a plan.

Here is a link to the RA Gallery on the Oceania exhibition, which shows pictures of several highlights.

In many ways I enjoyed the Oceania more than I enjoyed the Klimt/Schiele.  I have long been fascinated by people of the South Sea Islands, not least the Melanesian archipelago. That fascination dates back at least as far as 1974:

Ongka’s Big Moka, Television Documentary, 11 December 1974

Daisy became convinced, quite early in the visit, that I resemble some of the figures depicted in the Oceania exhibition and took several pictures in an attempt to prove it. Don’t see it, myself:

Probably the highlight for us was the panoramic, sort-of 3-D, sort of CGI film, In Pursuit of Venus – the still in the link cannot do justice to the clever effect of this filmscape.

Between Oceania and Klimt/Schiele we still had a bit of time and I was in need of a sit down after two hours on the tennis court this morning. We attempted to go to the members bar, but it was heaving with people – including my real tennis friend Bill Taylor and his entourage. Coincidentally, Bill, comfortably seated, was also still aching after two hours on the tennis court the day before.

We then tried the public bar, which was less crowded (yes there was seating) but Janie observed both servers coughing and sneezing. When they both admitted that they were poorly with flu, we thought best to forego refreshments on their patch. Ironic, given that, we learnt later at the Klimt/Schiele, that Egon Sciele and his wife both died tragically young, in 1918, of flu.

The Klimt/Schiele was a little disappointing in truth. You cannot really look at drawings easily when a gallery is that crowded – you’re almost better off looking at the best of them in the on-line gallery – click here.

Also, I think such work makes more sense when you can also see the major works that were inspired by or started their life as such drawings. This exhibition is all drawings which, especially in the case of Klimt’s work, does not make all that much sense in isolation.

Schiele’s work on paper is more complete/stark and thus makes more sense:

Here is a link that should pick up reviews and stuff for this particular Royal Academy Klimt /Schiele show – I emphasize because there was a Klimt/Schiele exhibition in New York over the summer but that was a completely different collection of work, apparently.

We had hoped to eat in The Senate Room after the Klimt/Schiele but had been misinformed about the availability of food in that space in the evening; so we had a quick drink there and returned home for some Chinese food which we took back to Noddyland.

In short, I think it was well worth a trip to the RA to see these two exhibitions on one day, but we’ll almost certainly be avoiding late night Fridays from now on.

Edinburgh Day Five: Falkland Palace Gardens And Tennis, 21 August 2018

After Sunday’s long-signalled washout, I had been keeping a close eye on the weather forecast for the rescheduled slot for real tennis at Falkland Palace; late morning Tuesday.

The weather was smiling on us first thing and continued to smile on us for our day in Falkland.

Worrying about the weather for real tennis is an unusual experience, as almost all of the functioning courts are indoors. In fact, the Royal Court at Falkland Palace is currently the only functioning outdoor court in the world. It is also the oldest functioning tennis court in the world.

P1020758

Falkland Palace is also home to the most northerly court in the world. Indeed, as neither Janie nor I had previously ventured further north than Glasgow/Livingstone/Edinburgh, our visit to Falkland was also the most northerly place we have yet been.

We allowed plenty of time to get to Falkland, but in truth it is only an hour or so’s drive from our digs in Leith.

We planned to look at the gardens as well as play tennis, but didn’t particularly want to wander around the old pile.

P1020759

On arrival, I told the attendant our plans and offered to pay for garden visit tickets, but she told us that we didn’t need to pay to see the garden if we were there for tennis.

P1020760

Then we met our hosts; Ewan and Kirsten Lee. An extremely pleasant couple bursting with enthusiasm for the game of real tennis. They had been unable to find a fourth player to join us, so, as planned, Janie gave it a go, despite her inexperience at the game.

I say, “Janie’s inexperience”…that court would make many an experienced dedanist feel like a fresher.

For a start, the design of the court is quite different from any other active court; it is a jeu quarré court, which means that there is no dedans for the receiver to aim at, no penthouse roof at the server’s end and no tambour on the hazard side for the server to aim at.

Instead, the receiver has a small plank of wood, the “ais”, to aim at in the right-hand corner of the server’s court. although hitting the ais only counts as a winning stroke if it hits that feature before the second bounce and without first hitting the gallery penthouse roof.

The other ludicrously tantalising and no-doubt mostly confounding targets for the receiver are four small apertures in the server’s side back wall known, as lunes.

We played a rather one-sided Scotland v England fixture for over two hours and had lots of fun, while only occasionally having long wrests. So passing visitors, of whom there were many during those hours of play, might have been forgiven, when told that there are four lunes on the Falkland Palace tennis court, for mistakenly assuming that the term “four lunes” referred to the players, not to the apertures on the wall.

P1020764

The surfaces are also very different at Falkland, the walls and the floor being unpolished stone and the balls, consequently, made with a rougher, more robust felt; another currently unique feature for Falkland.

P1020765

Indeed, Ewan added an additional characteristic in the hazard/gallery corner; some salt to make less slippery that part of the floor that gets no sun and therefore remains damp. Dramatic backspin was available for those talented enough or lucky enough to produce it.

For sure luck plays its part to a greater extent even than we see on indoor real tennis courts, but that adds to the fun and of course luck evens out after a while, allowing the better players to prevail, more often than not.

P1020774

I am pleased to be able to say that I managed to hit the grille once during our game and that I hit a winning shot to the ais. Both of those aimed and I think I might have had a couple more points from hitting the ais had it not been for Ewan’s determined defending of the ais with his increasingly successful volleys.

P1020778

But my moment of glory from the hours of play came from a rather frustrated, wild receiving shot, which I think would have hit the penthouse roof above the dedans on most courts. But on this one occasion at Falkland, my forceful shot went sailing through the lower lune on the main wall side of the server’s wall.

We had a brief discussion on the scoring rule for a lune shot. The most recent incarnation of the Falkland Tennis Club scores a mere point for the lune shot, which is clearly inadequate reward for such a risky and unlikely shot. Ewan announced that the 16th century rule was that a successful lune shot determined the game, so we agreed that particular deuce game had been been won by me and Janie, then moved on in the set.

But on returning to my many ancient texts and manuscripts, I learn that the phrase “determines the game”, in the sixteenth century, could not have referred to a mere single game within a set of tennis…no, no, no…“determines the game”, in those days unquestionably meant, “the side with the most lune shots wins the whole match”.

So despite the fact that the Scottish pair (Ewan and Kirsten) won most of the points, almost all of the games and all of the sets ahead of the intrepid English pair (me and Janie), it seems that, by dint of my single, lucky lune shot, Janie and I won the match. Scotland 0-1 England. An historic win for England over Scotland away at Falkland. Hopefully our opponents will demand a rematch to try their luck again.

In truth, of course, the winner was real tennis; the hours of fun and the conviviality that seems almost always to go along with that wonderful sport.

P1020786

We eventually had to stop playing when a large party of schoolchildren arrived on a school trip to see the court and watch people in 16th century fancy dress demonstrating the court. Janie took some photographs.

P1020788

P1020789

We four modern realists retired to The Covenanter across the road for some drinks, snacks and chat. Ewan, who is a schoolteacher, is a great enthusiast for sports, in particular court sports, so he and I schemed about fives (another shared interest) as well as tennis. Kirsten is an artist and designer with a great love of gardens, so she and Janie had plenty to talk about in those departments too.

Much like our recent visit to Petworth, Janie and I lost track of time and ate into far too much of our hosts’ day, for which we are grateful and which didn’t seem to bother our hosts. But on this occasion at Falkland, with no further visits on our itinerary, after saying goodbye to Ewan and Kirsten, we thankfully did find time to look around the beautiful, peaceful garden.

P1020796

P1020799

P1020800

Highlights include a charming orchard, a small physic garden and also the lovely areas around the house and tennis court.

P1020804

P1020834

P1020807

We also revisited the tennis court to try to capture some better pictures of the nesting swallows who populate the galleries side of the court.

P1020813

P1020830

P1020827

P1020795

On the way home, we stopped off at the David Lloyd Tennis Club on Glasgow Road (what a contrast) to pick up some of those ASICS indoor tennis shoes at that seem so hard to track down at the moment. Stephen at the Bruntsfield Sports concession there was very helpful, although they only had one pair that ticked all of my boxes.

Gosh we felt tired when we got home, but not too tired to go out again after showering to get some protein and carbs inside us by visiting Domenico’s in Leith for a spicy prawn starter and big bowls of the day’s special pasta; venison ragu tagliatelle.

We’d had a really lovely day, not least thanks to Ewan, Kirsten and the wonderful sport of real tennis.

All of our photographs from our week away, mostly at the Edinburgh Fringe, can be seen on our Flickr album by clicking here on the picture below:

2018 August Edinburgh Festival Trip