OK – Quite A Lot Of It WAS About Giant Prawns, Seafood & Spices In Tangalle, The Last Few Days, 10 to 13 January 2026

My first couple of postings about this holiday focussed more on eating than anything else:

After the day we helped to cook our own food…

…and then the next day’s intense efforts of short-sleeved-shirt-searching in and around Tangalle

…naturally we needed to chow down well. We returned to the Italian restaurant, Il Mare, where I chose the local barracuda fish done in a similar style to the tuna Daisy had tried the previous time, while Daisy tried the lobster spaghetti. Il Mare preceded these delights with a very tasteful-looking and tasty amuse-gueule. Food porn photos – here they come:

Janie insisted on rounding off the meal with some almond chocolate cake. Who was I to refuse the offer to taste it?

Oh dear. He’s gone!

Here is a link to the Il Mare menu from the website – January 2026.

We interrupt this food-oriented posting to remind readers that we were playing tennis for an hour every morning – activity which I preceded with 20 minutes in the well-appointed and well-equipped gym.

Also to say that we had two more wonderful therapies towards the end of our stay, in the caring hands of Oka and Lily:

  • 11th – Hot Stone Massage (90 minutes)
  • 12th – Stress Release Massage (me) & Foot Massage (Janie).

Back to food. On 11th, we returned to Verala for our penultimate visit there. On this occasion, we wanted to try the Japanese fusion aspect of the place. The restaurant manager had reassured us about the intense international standard food safety procedures they followed to ensure that raw fish was safe even in that hot climate and a culture unaccustomed to such delicacies.

I can only describe it as a feast for the eyes and the mouth in equal measure. We loved that meal. Here is a link to the Verala menu from the website January 2026.

The night of the 12th, we returned to Il Mare for the last time. I fancied the giant prawns Italian style and Daisy fancied trying the chicken, declaring herself to be “seafooded out”.

Both dishes were delicious.

For our last meal, we returned to Verala one final time. We wanted to try some of the other Asian fusion style dishes, both rice-based and noodle based. But we started with the outstanding Sake Kani salad we had enjoyed so much on our first night.

And we couldn’t leave without trying the highly recommended chocolate sticky toffee pudding. That would have been rude.

Not wanting to be rude…

That last one was a relatively early dinner for us. We had an early start the next morning for our flights home.

If you want to see the whole album of pictures from this holiday – more than 150 of them – click here or below:

Where Plenty Of Wildlife Came On Safari To Visit Us, Tangalle, 6 to 12 January 2026

The Thinker

We didn’t much notice the wildlife all around us for the first couple of days. Then we started to spot photo opportunities as we walked around…then, it seemed, the wildlife was hell bent on visiting us in our beautiful villa, so close as we were to the lagoon that transcends the Anantara Peace Haven Resort.

6th and 7th January this mighty peacock visited us from the roof of the next door villa

Actually, I think it was the fact that the next door villa was empty after the first couple of days that started to score us so many visitors. The peacocks were especially keen visitors.

Janie also started spotting creatures on her way to the tennis court just before 8:00 in the morning. This black giant squirrel on 7th January, for example.

But we didn’t need to leave our villa to see squirrels – although we didn’t get visitations from the giant ones.

I named this one Secret Squirrel, as their rapid movements made it really hard for me to snap them

Not just squirrels – also mongeese. This little fella came to visit us in our own garden:

Access through the pool drainage system: “simples”.

Soon Janie and I were competing to get the best pictures of these majestic creatures. This one of mine from the comfort of my own lounger…

…this one of Janie’s in the field beside the tennis court, where this particular peacock. whom we named “Showoff” resided.

“Why did we name him Showoff?”, I hear many a reader cry. I finally managed to catch him in action on our last day. I suppose this photo of a peacock display is that species’ equivalent of a dick pic.

Look at me!

In the interests of balance, here is a picture Janie took of a peahen.

We saw some wonderful creatures on our afternoon at Mama’s kitchen, as some of the bird species clearly like to hang out on the rice paddy field.

You egret!

Red-wattled Lapwing

But the stars of the show were the grey langurs. Janie started spotting them in the mornings near our villa when she was coming down for tennis. She absolutely hit paydirt on our penultimate full day, a few villa doors down from ours:

I thought that the pictures she took that morning were just stunning. Two of the best above. I even forgave her for being late for tennis as a result:

Primates: male (above), female (below), possibly a pair? Or even a right pair.

Meanwhile the housekeeping staff tried to make us laugh with their towel art of wildlife. Here are the best two examples:

On our very last day, almost as if to say goodbye to us, the family of grey langurs came and stopped by on the next door roof and then our villa. That’s when I managed to snap “The Thinker”.

I also attempted some video, which I have yet to assess. Frankly I think it should almost all…or perhaps even all…end up on the metaphorical cutting room floor. Attenborough I ain’t.

It really was a treat to see so much wildlife in such close proximity to us.

Tangalle Up In Blue: A Hunt For Short-Sleeved Shirts, Tangalle, Sri Lanka, 10 January 2026

Following the great success of my Sri Lankan short sleeved linen shirts procured in Galle a mere 15 years earlier…

…so great the success that those well worn shirts are starting to look well worn…we resolved to procure some replacements.

But Galle & Tangalle are not the same place. Prashan thought we only had a few choices near the resort and suspected that Tangalle itself might not offer the pure linen quality we wanted.

He recommended Smart Buy, a mere five minute walk down the road. There were two problems with our plan to visit that one. Firstly, we set off after breakfast, during the mad dogs & Englishmen hours. Janie started to melt about three minutes into our five minute walk. Secondly, and existentially for our mission, the place was inexplicably closed on a Saturday. Frankly, it looked closed down.

More research was needed, as all we succeeded in getting locally was a couple of (admittedly super smart looking) white linen shirts. We wanted bold colours.

In the end, we hired a tuk-tuk later in the day (when it was far less hot) and went to Sanu Cool Fashion in Tangalle which, contrary to Prashan’s fears, had a super selection of really good quality short-sleeved shirts. Not all were of the quality I wanted, we needed to rummage and reject some, but plenty were.

Janie and I disagreed on some of the colours. Janie really liked the dark, deep blue (see headline picture) whereas I was more attracted by the louder colours, which are more likely to raise comments and eyebrows in places like the Lord’s pavilion.

The obvious answer was to buy several, including Janie’s and my picks of colour. Not only the three depicted but three green ones too. Lord knows I’ve paid some dues, getting through, Tangalle up in blue. 😉

A Day Which Revolved Around Cooking In Mama’s Kitchen, Tangalle, Sri Lanka, 9 January 2026

Mama, ooh (any way the wind blows)…

We were very keen to try our hands at cooking in Mama’s Kitchen and chose this middle day of our break for that purpose.

Still we played tennis first thing and then took some breakfast in the normal way, but rather than enjoy the wonders of our villa, we set off at 12:20 for the rudimentary location, just beyond the rice paddy field, where “Mama”, assisted by one of the chefs and Manju, would teach us how to cook Sri Lankan style food.

Prashan thoughtfully escorted us across the paddy field to Mama’s hut

While I am quite familiar with Southern Asian cuisine and have experimented with Sri Lankan cooking before, this was a more comprehensive tour d’horizon of the art. An entire multi-dish meal (our lunch) needed to be prepared form scratch.

Where do I begin?

Mama and chef explained, demonstrated and taught. Manju translated.

If in doubt, adopt a cheffy face and posture, then have a slurp.

It’s only coconut milk

Now look what we’ve done!

Janie in particular took a shine to the salad, Gotukola Sambol, for which I have added a BBC Food link which includes alternative ingredients which might help back at home. Mukunuwenna Mallum is a similar, warm salad, the recipe for which was one of a couple of dozen recipes that Manju forwarded to us after the event.

He didn’t share a recipe for the Prawns Tampopo, but, closer to home, Tooting Mama (you couldn’t make it up) has a great recipe for those. If you just want the ingredients and instructions, click here. Manju didn’t share the chicken curry recipe either, now I come to look through them all, but here is a BBC Food version which is very similar indeed, and all the ingredients can be readily obtained at home.

All the more satisfying because we helped to cook the lunch

A very enjoyable event – wader go! (Red-wattled Lapwing to be precise).

Thoroughly exhausted from our efforts, we relaxed for the rest of the afternoon – in my case reading and in Janie’s case having a facial in the spa. We subsequently had a simple room service supper before retiring at the end of that day.

A very special and memorable part of this holiday.

It Wasn’t All About Giant Prawns, Seafood & Spices In Tangalle, The First Few Days, 4 to 8 January 2026

…but, admittedly, quite a lot of it was about the grub!

We quickly slipped into the type of institutionalised (in a good way) mode that wonderful places such as the Anantara Peace Haven encourage in their guests. Through our agents, Healing Holidays – click here for our itinerary, we had pre-arranged to play tennis at 8:00 every morning.

That flipping backhand of hers!

The temperature even at 8:00 was a bit hot for Janie – even I felt it on the more humid days. Add to that the bouncy surface that neutralised Janie’s fiendish slice…the conditions suited me more than Janie.

We’d also pre-booked, for the first day, the 5th, a body scrub treatment (to prepare our skin for sun) and a consultation at the spa. Here’s the list of treatments we had in those first few days:

  • 5th – 30 minute body scrub and consultation with Ayurvedic doctor
  • 7th – Pinda Sweda (Ayurvedic hot pouches treatment) followed by 45 minute meditation class
  • 8th – head and neck massage.

The spa was superb. Janie and I were mostly treated by Oka (me) and Lily (Janie), who were excellent practitioners. Meditation was with Vinod. We arranged some more treatments for the second half of our stay.

We had a pool villa, which we made our home for much of the day, most days. The small pool didn’t offer much length for swimming, but it was great for foot-dangling while reading.

I’ll write some more about the reading and the local wildlife (much of which would stop by at our villa, so we didn’t much need to go look for it) in a separate article or two.

Because you, dear reader, came to this article to learn some more about the grub, didn’t you?

On the first evening, 4 January, we ate in the Verala Asian restaurant. Janie can be seen digging in to the giant lagoon prawn dish…

…and we also ordered some Thai style regular prawns, Goong Pad Med Mamuang – so there! Meals in that restaurant are prefaced with a delicious welcome soup, based around coconut milk with spices and either lentils or rice. Janie has the recipes for future reference!

On the second evening, we dined in the main restaurant, as there was an opportunity to try an array of Sir Lankan style dishes. We were particularly taken with a spicy lamb which the chef was cutting from the bone for the diners, but we also tried some small tasters of other Sri Lankan dishes. I particularly like the traditional yellow rice with Sri Lankan dishes and the local daal was very tasty indeed to my taste.

Janie’s only complaint was that I look too serious…or even miserable…in her dinner-time photos. I tried to explain to her that “concentrating on my food” and/or “being super tired in the evening after a day of excessive relaxation is normal and even, possibly, to be encouraged.

On the third evening, 6 January, we returned to the main restaurant (for the last time) for the seafood buffet. We’re not really buffet people, but we did fancy trying the array of seafood available. We tried prawns in more than one style and particularly enjoyed the local fish, barramundi, roasted in a Sri Lankan style.

Concentrating/tiring, not miserable…

On the fourth evening, 7 January, we tried Il Mare, the Italian restaurant, which was really excellent. I went for a seafood pasta (Linguine ai frutti di mare), while Janie went for local tuna steak with mash (180g Bistecca di tonno).

My pasta dish in particular lent itself to the food porn photo treatment:

I was tired/concentrating, not bored, not miserable. Janie lifted her pose performance, showing off her choice of tiramisu, also to demonstrate how posing with food porn photos should be done.

Our fifth meal, 8 January, saw us return to the impressive Verala – not for the last time either.

Despite having sworn, when we were in Portland Maine, just three months earlier, that we were through with wrestling large shellfish…

…we decided to attempt it again, as we had happy memories of Hikkaduwa crab from our previous times in Sri Lanka.

Fish cake starters might have lulled us into a false sense of security, as might the choice of “easy access” lagoon prawns again, to accompany the crab.

The Sri Lankan crab curry was hard work but was just about worth the wrestle. We did swear “never again”, again, though. Our exhaustion exacerbated by the unfortunate “lock out” from our villa, as the batteries in our door lock failed between locking up for dinner and trying to return after dinner. The problem was easily fixed, but not before we walked all the way to reception to report the problem. Walking off such a dinner is probably not such a bad idea, but a better idea if done willingly and with expectation!

We had a busy day ahead of us the next day, as we had booked a lunch time cookery session at Mama’s Kitchen, which I’ll describe and illustrate in the next episode.

Setting Off For & Getting To Tangalle, Sri Lanka, 3 & 4 January 2026

“What a prawn!”

Janie (Daisy) & I decided we needed a complete rest break after the circus that was much of 2025. Through our favourite agents for this sort of thing, Healing Holidays, who arranged our most recent previous rest cure for us…crikey…nine blithering years ago…

…we arranged the simple January 2026 Sri Lanka trip explained in the itinerary linked here.

We’d been to Sri Lanka several times before – firstly in March 1995…

…and secondly on a cricket-strewn trip to India and Sri Lanka in 2011…

The 2026 Tangalle trip had no cricket planned and indeed no cricket ensued. I did, however, on the day of departure from London, head to my health club in the morning, as the weather was icy, making the idea of tennis with Daisy too reckless, even for us. Towards the end of my workout, I spotted a gentleman who looked uncannily like Virat Kohli up on the mezzanine. When he descended to my level, a closer look confirmed that he WAS Virat Kohli.

Prime Minister’s Office (GODL-India), GODL-India, Ahemdabad, 2023.

In the good old days, Alex Bowden (King Cricket) would have cherished this small moment in his “cricketer spotted” column.

But icy London felt positively warm compared with our seats on SriLankan Airlines. Nothing the steward-folk tried to do to the air conditioning made much difference where we were sitting. We resorted to coats, scarves and (in my case) even my beany.

We’d had a relatively event free check in, although Janie had her hand luggage singled out for a comprehensive search for the second time in a row. She’s hoping to avoid the metaphorical hat trick ball next time. Formalities at Colombo were a breeze compared with equivalent formalities at Boston Logan a few months ago.

We got to Anantara in Tangalle before 16:00 which was good timing. Our host Prashan showed us around and took us to our villa. We arranged a late dinner in Verala – the Asian/fusion restaurant. That’s where Janie’s enormous prawn comes in:

I won’t write up too much about this holiday but there are some good “food porn” pictures (only some are food porn/prawn pictures) and wildlife pics too.

Here are the six follow-up pieces – each can be clicked through from here or by clicking the next piece button at the bottom of each piece:

US Trip 23 September to 8 October, Day Sixteen: From Portland Maine To London England, via An Updike Hike In Ipswich Essex, 8 October 2025

Last Brunch Before Boston Logan

The weather had smiled on us so wonderfully for most of our New England trip, it was perhaps ironically fitting that the weather turned just as we were leaving.

A damp view of Portland just before departure

We said goodbye to our lovely apartment on Munjoy Hill. I drove us from Portland to Ipswich in the driving rain.

Nice colours as we approached Ipswich

The weather was due to cheer up middle of the day, but we found ourselves in Ipswich before noon. I had spotted two places for refreshments in the middle of the town: Heart & Soul Cafe & the Choate Bridge Pub.

We started in the first of them, which we could tell straight away would be to our taste. A groovy throw back to the 1960s & 1970s.

Tasty BLTs with avo and great coffee, which is not all that easy to find in USA cafes.

The staff were all very friendly and we got to meet the owners, Bud & Jenny, who were exactly the sort of jolly, genial people you might expect from the pictures.

They were especially taken with my shirt, which they thought might have been designed for their cafe. Funnily enough, it is the one I wore to Kim & Janie’s 60’s themed party, so Bud & Jenny were darned right!

I wondered whether the picture with Ed Sheeran (see headline photo) was an AI-generated joke, as it seemed incongruous for their 60s/70s theme, but it turned out that Ed Sheeran had popped in to the cafe a few months ahead of us.

For reasons known only to him, Ed Sheeran, a son of Ipswich (Suffolk, England), chose to film a pop video in the other Ipswich (Essex County, Massachusetts). And why not?

Perhaps this gave Janie the bug to film a video of her own, which I’ll insert a bit later.

The rain had pretty much died down by the time we had finished our brunch, so we said goodbye to Bud, Jenny and their team and wandered around for a while, taking in some of the old buildings in the town…

…before returning to the centre of town to start an Updike hike. The hike needed to start in the Choate Bridge Pub, as I was aware that Updike had written many of his novels from an office above that pub. Why he chose to write there rather than in his big house, a few minutes walk away from the pub, is a matter for some academic conjecture I am sure.

Cash only. Super quirky.
Iced tea for me, please.

The nice barmaid told us that upstairs is now apartments (I’d kinda figured), so we thought best to wander down to pay homage to Updike’s house after photographing the Choate Bridge Pub Updike plaque.

On leaving the pub, we got chatting for quite a while with a nice lady, recently bereaved, who had lived in St John’s Wood at one time. Then we sought the Updike plaque.

I thought the couple sitting in the window were trying to avoid being photographed, which would have been fair enough, but it turned out they were clowning around, hoping to photo bomb our picture, which was really pretty funny.

OK, you must all be chomping at the bit to see a five minute hike movie – now’s the time for a showing of Daisy’s movie:

The Polly Dole House, Updike’s second in Ipswich.

A show off on the way back to the car

Updike’s first house, on Essex Road…in case you couldn’t tell…

Janie drove us into Boston Logan airport, which was a relatively traffic and hassle free drive, but dropping the car and then getting to the check in at departures was a bit of a circus, as I suspect it always is at Boston Logan.

Once we got through formalities, though, the Delta hospitality (which Virgin shares) was excellent, so we chose to chow down before the flight and eat light on it.

Is that my relaxed face or my relieved face while eating a very tasty chowder?

Relaxed & relieved face, while eating a tasty fish dish

Studying the photos while taking some desert before flying.

If you want to see all the pictures from this day – we’re talking well north of 100 – then click this Flickr link or the photo link below:

US Trip 23 September to 8 October, Day Fifteen: More Relaxing In Portland Maine, With Tennis, Reading & Dinner At Miyake, 7 October 2025

A streetcar named…well, it was unnamed, actually.

Our last day, mostly like the previous day, as we wanted to relax.

Breakfast, then off to play tennis around 9:40 for 10:00. No dramas on the tennis court today and another excellent close game.

Mostly relaxing, while doing a bit of packing.

Then, after finishing our packing, we went off in the evening to Miyake. Another really delightful meal – thank you, Jamie and Chris.

Coincidentally, we learnt the next day from our host Michele that Jamie and Chris are friends of theirs and happened to be over for dinner with our hosts that very evening and wondered whether we were enjoying the meals in the places they had recommended!

I know Portland is a small city and all that, but this felt very folksy indeed.

Anyway, the answer is…we sure did.

This all looks very neat and tidy at first

The food was delicious and the service very helpful, enthusiastic and discreet in equal measure.

Two of our favourites: unadon (above) and buta bara (kakuni is our real fave) below

Let’s get up close and personal with an ebi tempura

There’s always one diner who cannot get used to sensible portion sizes!

We really liked that place – a lovely way to end our time in Portland Maine.

In the unlikely event that anyone wants to see the handful of pictures that weren’t used in this blog piece, click the Flickr link here or photo below:

US Trip 23 September to 8 October, Day Fourteen: Relaxing In Portland Maine, With Tennis, Reading & Dinner At Scales, 6 October 2025

Clam chowder is irresistible in those parts

Our morning “routine” in our temporary Portland home is now well set. Coffee and a breakfast of cereal, blueberries, grapes, banana & milk, followed by a game of tennis. I prevailed today 6-4, 1-1; it has been really close each day.

On this occasion, we politely asked a pickleball pair to allow us to play on the court we had booked and the “gentleman” tried to decline our request, insisting that the place is “first come, first served”…which it is, unless you pay to reserve and play. His “Mrs” encouraged him to see sense, not least because there were several other pickleball spots free such that both they and we could play on uncracked courts. I’m starting to see why tennis and pickleball folk are at loggerheads in some parts of the US!

Don’t get into a pickle

The Eastern Promenade courts are a beautiful setting for tennis (and/or pickleball come to that), with lovely views of the sea and (at least while we were around) a helpful but unobtrusive level of breeze.

Back to our apartment for a restful day, mostly reading on our terrace and/or writing up these notes. We met our host, Michele, briefly, and had a pleasant chat with her.

I even had time for a siesta today and it really did feel like siesta weather – sitting out had, at times, felt like too much sun; extraordinary for Portland Maine in October.

Dinner this evening at Scales, which came much recommended by our friend in Bretton Woods and the friendly couple up the street (Jamie and Chris), who also recommended the Japanese place we have arranged to try tomorrow.

Scales deserved those recommendations (as did the Japanese – see next article). Excellent setting, grub and service. We tried their clam chowder which was excellent – on a par with The Moorings in Newport.

Then Janie chose lobster roll with fries, coleslaw & pickle, while I had a very tasty haddock dish.

Janie looks very happy with her choice. I don’t look displeased with mine either.

We both had a glass of a NY Riesling to start, then I had Benziger Running Wild Chardonnay, while Janie tried an Oregon Pinot Noir rose. The portion sizes were sensible for once, so I tried some frozen custard (blueberry) and Janie tried a coffee frapee. Then we did both feel full, but very happy!

We only live once.

In the unlikely event you want to see the handful of other pictures we took that day, click this Flickr link or the photo below:

US Trip 23 September to 8 October, Day Thirteen: In Portland, Portsmouth & Kennebunkport, 5 October 2025

We played tennis again after breakfast. 6-4, 4-4 in Daisy’s favour. A nice young basketball player who was practicing her shooting encouraged us to “have a go” before we went home.

Possibly (above), certainly (below)

A little reluctantly, Daisy agreed to do some coastal touring this afternoon. In the end she was glad that she acquiesced, not least because that freed up our last two days for rest and relaxation at our apartment in Portland.

Just two stops for the excursion on Sunday – Portsmouth and Kennebunkport. First stop, Portsmouth.

We parked on the edge of the centre of town, in a lot where parking is free as long as you can find a spot. We found a spot. My guess that leaf-peeping would be more popular this weekend and that consequently the seaside towns would be “buzzy but not heaving” proved to be correct.

We took some light refreshment (iced coffee and bread) at an Italian bar/restaurant on market square, then wandered round a bit.

We were not overly taken with Portsmouth, which reminded us of many nice but unexceptional old towns at home, and we were not attracted to look at museums on such a warm sunny day.

On, then, to Kennebunkport. The drive into that town was more scenic than the drive to Portsmouth, as was the town itself. Small, compact and rather quaint.

Which of these supermodels (above & below) is Model A?

We enjoyed walking around for a while, taking in the vibe. Then we had ice cream because that’s what you do if you spend an afternoon in seaside towns. Janie had coffee and I had blueberry pie flavour.

Then home, reasonably early, to enjoy a relaxed evening with our wine, cheese, charcuterie and salad, procured from Wholefoods and Micucci on the preceding days.

If you’d like to see all the pictures from this day, try the Flickr link here or on the photo below: