Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Eleven: A Day In Marrakesh, 18 November 1997

Jardin Majorelle – Yves St Lauren’s place

Rose, quite late – faffed around in morning re-changing room and spoilt films etc before lunch.

I don’t really remember the specific room-changing incident at Le Tichka, but in those days we did quite often end up changing rooms, as anything that didn’t meet Janie’s very high standards of room quality would get rejected.

The problem with film was probably film getting stuck in my old Zenith EM, which i think I largely solved by unsticking and changing the film in a changing bag, which i would always carry with me in those days. Photographer’s son blah blah.

La Mamounia courtyard

Went off to La Mamounia for look around – also gardens and Koutoubia Mosque.

After lunch back at Tichka, we went sightseeing with a grumpy guide Abdul Jalil II – went to Palais de la Bahia

– drove through the Mellah

…to Jardin Majorelle [see headline picture and below]- saw gardens and small museum …

…then on to souks a look around – photographs and protracted negotiations over beautiful tajine dishes.

Yes, we both remember that souk/shopping trip well. Janie indeed got some beautiful tajine dishes which she still cherishes, but a little bit of our souls were left behind in the Marrakesh souk. The merchants were so pushy and we sensed that our guide, Abdul Jalil II (see above) was taking us to his personal choice of pushy, high-commission merchants. Both Janie and I had a headache by the end of that shopping trip.

Then after dark [we] wandered around to Djemaa El Fna for a while.

Back to hotel for dinner (Janie – brochettes, me – pastilla pigeon.)

All the photos from the second part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

048 Palace de la Bahia - we had to leave out lots of good shots too M_J6_Photo (33)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Ten: Ouirgane To Marrakesh Via Essaouira, 17 November 1997

Set out very early for Essaouira – Janie did all the driving because I’m a cripple – via Marrakesh, where my directions were spot on, but the traffic cop didn’t want to know!

The reference to me being a cripple is to do with the fight I (especially my foot/ankle had with a marble bathroom floor the day before, which the marble won on points. I cannot remember the traffic cop incident but we both remember Essaouira very fondly.

Essaouira was very pretty – we went into the craft shop area – bought some wood pieces – then went to see Villa Maroc – (stunning) and main harbour squares (Orson Welles!) Etc

Then Chez Sam at end of harbour for a fabulous seabass lunch…

…then back to Marrakesh – said goodbye to Noddy, the Renault 9.

Checked into Le Tichka & had a restful evening, including super Moroccan meal at hotel Johara restaurant (Janie had chicken tajine, me – brochettes).

All the photos from the second part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

048 Palace de la Bahia - we had to leave out lots of good shots too M_J6_Photo (33)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Nine: Lazy Day In To Ouirgane At La Roseraie, 16 November 1997

Me reading Harry Thompson’s biography of Peter Cook

Lazy day at La Roseraie – interrupted by my tumble in marble bathroom. Nevertheless, sat out all day by quiet, small, pool…

That ligament-twisted foot went rainbow colours when I dangled it in the pool

“Luncheon is served, m’lady”

…and then “our” garden after light lunch.

“Would you care to retire to the garden after luncheon, m’lady?”

Had massages in early evening and again an early dinner and early night. With a view to Smart start tomorrow.

All the photos from the second part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

048 Palace de la Bahia - we had to leave out lots of good shots too M_J6_Photo (33)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Eight: Taroudant To Ouirgane Via Tizi-n-Test Pass, 15 November 1997

Set out quite early for La Roseraie. Mostly stunning drive-through Tizi-n-Test pass – many stops to take photos etc – long drive.

Arrived [at La Roseraie] in time for late lunch and look around – arranged a serviced hamam. For late afternoon. And then dinner and early night.

All the photos from the second part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

048 Palace de la Bahia - we had to leave out lots of good shots too M_J6_Photo (33)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Seven: A Day In Taroudant & An Evening At La Gazelle Dor, 14 November 1997

Went into town quite early – fended off countless touts to be alone – bought painting.

Got a bit lost, but then found souk – I bought sandals, Janie bought the baboushes [slippers], then got bored with touts. Found ourselves a horse and carriage lad who had kept looking out for us and got him to take us round the ramparts, and then back to the souk (Berber part, then Arab part) where Janie, bought raffia.

I haggle hard & one [merchant] offered 6000 camels for Janie (previous best offer – 4000 camels).

Then home for relaxing afternoon on fab terrace.

Realised we needed extra baggage for our purchases. The result was to return to souk quickly (with tout). Naturally no touts were to be found, but shunned souk shopkeeper from earlier grabbed us and sorted out great leather holdall and more sandals & baboushes dead cheap!

Home to change and dinner at oh so snooty La Gazelle Dor (méchoui). Adam (manager, so OTT, it’s untrue). Great meal at £50 plus tip all in better than I expected.

All the photos from the first part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Six: Ouarzazate To Taroudant, 13 November 1997

Taroudant as seen from our original Palais Salaam room

Left early. Drove from Ouarzazate To Taroudant – uneventful drive, 300 km.

Arrived at lunchtime Palais Salam – super place. Terrace in room. [See headline photo] Took light lunch of Moroccan delights, minced lamb samosa type and liver tajine – superb.

Relaxed on Terrace and afternoon – dined on pre-arranged pigeon tajine in evening – delicious.

Tucking in to tajine (above) and sweetmeats (below)

Went to bed early to relax, but earlier “have you farted?” sulphurous smell pervaded and after several comedy sketch attempts by plumber with no sense of smell, [we] got upgraded to a magnificent suite.

All the photos from the first part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Five: Tinghir (Tinerhir) To Ouarzazate Via Dadès Gorges, 12 November 1997

Why not? – Gorges yourself!

Headed off quite early – visited Dadès Gorges – went in as far as car will sensibly go – attractive.

Drove through relatively hassle free villages…

The reference to “relatively hassle-free villages” was actually a throw back to the previous day, when we had encountered several instances of “little treasures” finding it amusing to throw stones and pebbles at our car as we passed through their villages on the Erfoud to Tineghir run.

…then drove out to Ouarzazate – arrived at hotel, nice and early – relaxed around pool.

Rested in room and unexceptional dinner in overflow room at Riad Salam, with monotonous music and interesting Irish journalists.

I don’t think we were wild about that hotel, with the “interesting Irish journalists” being the only highlight. We didn’t photograph the place at all.

All the photos from the first part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Four: Erfoud – Erg Chebbi Sunrise Then On To Tinghir (Tinerhir), 11 November 1997

Me & Guide Hassan – Erg Chebbi sunrise

Rose at 4:30 am to head off for sand dunes with our guide Hassan.

My abiding memory of this early morning jaunt is setting off from our hotel in our modest Renault 19 with Daisy at the wheel. Daisy, because I didn’t have the confidence even to attempt driving “off piste” in a Renault 19 before daylight. About five minutes into the tentative journey, Hassan said, with some authority, “if you want to get to Erg Chebbi in time to see the sunrise, you’d better let me drive.” So he did – and so we did see the sunrise.

Watched the sunrise at the large dunes, then went to examine the smaller ones…

…before home for shower and breakfast. Set off in direction of Tinerhir – an unremarkable, Sub-Saharan drive until we reached Todra Gorge…

…drove right into the canyon.

Todra Gorge Canyon

Tinerhir looking at its very best, as seen from Todra Gorge

Got to hotel in Tinerhir, to discover the whole town lacked water. After two to three hours of contingency planning we [decided to] stay put – [the] water came on – [we] ate an unexceptional meal.

All the photos from the first part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Three: Fes (Fez) To Erfoud, 10 November 1997

Drove from Fes to Erfoud– 6+ hours drive. Stopped briefly in Azrou (bank, tea). [Briefly] took hitchhiker and then made a long drive out to Erfoud.

Little of note on way. Arrived.

Arranged a guide for tomorrow’s sunrise trip to Erg Chebbi dunes.

Unremarkable, hotel and dinner (southern kasbah style, hotel and dinner).

All the photos from the first part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Two: Around Fes (Fez) – Volubilis, Moulay Idriss & Meknes, 9 November 1997

Car arrived – drove out to Volubilis – wandered around ruins, recommended route…

We encountered these carrot people on the way to Volubilis

Volubilis – see also headline picture and Janie examining wonderful mosaics below

– then on to Moulay Idriss, briefly…

Actually Moulay Idriss was very photogenic, as the following sample pictures attest:

Moulay Idriss – farewell.

…then onto Meknes – round the Medina. Janie splashed out on a carpet (silk kilim) – then drove back to Fes.

Meknes Medina

Dinner at Palais Jamais – Dalaa M’Bachara (steamed lamb shoulder)– Delish.

All the photos from the first part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

We flew ou