Journey To Lebanon, Syria, Jordan & Eilat (Israel), Day Six: A Wonderful Day In Aleppo, 8 March 1997

Janie dresses for the occasion at the Great Mosque of Aleppo

A placeholder & links covering the whole journey can be found through the link here and below:

Later start today – saw Aleppo Museum (many antiquities). 

We were not allowed to take pictures of and at the museum though.

Then went on to citadel – good state of repair with secret tunnels etc.

Aleppo Citadel

Aleppo as seen from Citadel

The Great Mosque of Aleppo as seen from the Citadel

Then down into [Al-Madina] souks (fabulous), which is quite a sight in between the power cuts.

Also saw The Great [Umayyad] Mosque of Aleppo

Daisy dressed for the occasion…

Ged not so well prepared for being mobbed by local kids

We tended to be mobbed (by which I mean warmly greeted) by local people almost everywhere we went in Syria (Damascus perhaps the exception). They seemed so pleased to see Western travellers and I proved especially popular with the middle-aged women, as apparently I bore more than a passing resemblance to one of their favourite soap opera stars!

…and then we shopped in the souks etc.

I bought a couple of thobes in the Aleppo souk

I want to write a few general words about our wonderful guide, Abdel. Janie and I have been fortunate to have had many extremely good guides with us for our travels. Abdel, who toured Syria with us for a week or so, was exceptional in every way. He knew his stuff as a guide, judged with great professionalism how much detail we wanted (and didn’t want) in various places and made our touring lots of fun as well as informative. He was a great one for breaking from the itinerary to show us an element of real Syrian life, e.g. to treat us to some snacks in a local place and/or introduce us to the many people he knew all around the country. Abdel also had a wicked sense of humour, teaching me some gutter Arabic and then warning me not to use it in edgy situations.

Abdel and his family lived in Aleppo; Janie and I have often wondered what became of them in the war there. He was a very intelligent fellow – let’s hope he and his family found a way to escape the worst excesses of the devastation there.

Back in 1997, when we were in his home town, he isnisted that we visit his home for dinner that evening.

Dinner at Abdel’s place – spartan surroundings but good food including mulukhiyah and boiled fowl.

All the photos from the Syrian leg of our journey can be found here or below:

01 After the border crossing from Lebanon to Syria - it's Crak des Chevaliers LSJ_1997_D4 (20)

Journey To Lebanon, Syria, Jordan & Eilat (Israel), Day Four: Tripoli, Krak des Chevaliers & On To Homs, 6 March 1997

A placeholder & links covering the whole journey can be found through the link here and below:

Met by Raymond & taken to Tripoli. Wandered round souks, caravanserais and town…

…then toured the Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles at Tripoli.

Set off for the border – completed formalities with ease (apparently) and then went to Krak des Chevaliers, somewhat against Raymond’s will. Superb crusader castle – huge and interesting.

The border crossing from Lebanon to Syria was the only one in which our driver/guide was allowed to take us across the border some distance and was thus the only straightforward one of this trip. But Raymond (whom Daisy has just described as, “oh yeh, he was a bit of an idiot”) did not want to show us Krak des Chevaliers – he wanted to drive past it as he deemed it a lesser place than the Tripoli citadel.

We got our way. Just as well. Krak was both fascinating and stunning-looking.

Coincidentally, I have recently (Spring 2022: at the time of writing this piece) been in correspondence with cousin Adam Green who was commissioned the preceding year to do an illustrative visualisation of Krak. We have enjoyed swapping pictures and tales of our very different Krak experiences. Adam has (even more recently) written up his tale and posted his wonderful illustration on-line - click here or the embedded link below.

Then went on to Homs where we were met by Abdel who wants to start early tomorrow so we eat in the hotel and early to bed

We did not tour Homs and drove in and out at dusk/dawn, so this public domain image of the mosque, by NouraRaslan, will have to do

All of the photos from our trip can be seen here or below:

36 Aleppo Citadel views - mosque LSJ_1997_G4 (30)