Nicaragua, Towards and In Leon, 7 February concluded

Daisy took a photograph or two of that part of the malecon, known as Puerto Savador Allende, which we decided reminded us a little of Canvey Island.

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Then we drove on, initially to Old Leon, which is some distance from the modern town of Leon.  Old Leon is a UNESCO Heritage site, but frankly a rather sad specimin for one of those.  The site has huge historical importance, as the early colonial twin cities of Granada and Leon were pre-eminent.  But all that has been excavated so far is the shell of some 70 buildings. Even the grandest, the ruins of the old cathedral (photographed) needs a lot of imagination and artists impressions to give you an idea of what the renaissance-period city might have looked like. Add to that the intense heat and we politely chose to move on quite quickly.

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So to Leon itself, which we shall tour tomorrow and explore ourselves the nextday.  Guillermo helped us to orient the town by driving us around (it seems pretty small and walkable in the main) before dropping us at El Convento.  We have indeed been allocated a beatiful garden-view room which turns out to be lovely and quiet.

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We’re both quite tired at this juncture, so we merely sort ourselves out, arrange to have dinner at the hotel and go down for that dinner ridiculously early by our standards (just after 6:00) although our brains probably still think it is midnight.

It’s hard to describe the meal politely.  Such a beautiful location, but the lighting is bright, the air-conditioning is set to “fridge” and the music is a sort of synthesiser-thumping-bollocks-remix of 1980’s western pop songs.  The food is a selection of good ingredients thoroughly overcooked and unsubtly seasoned.  We both had a starter of prawns in basil, which Daisy followed with pork medallions in gooseberry jelly and I followed with steak and porcini.

The wine was ludicrously cheap and pretty good – we had an apperitif glass of house white each and a bottle of Trio red, most of which we’ve saved for a rainy day.  Except there almost certainly won’t be one of those,so we might just drink it during the remainder of our stay, when we’ll be dining in more traditional type places, I imagine. The whole meal came to less than $80 dollars including a hefty service charge for the comedy waiters who spoke no English and seemed entirely unaccustomed to serving wine. Janie said it reminded her of Fawlty Towers, except without the rude proprietor.

We went to bed about 8:45 so it is no surprise that we both woke up early too. We need to work on this jet lag thing.

 

 

 

Nicaragua, Managua to Leon, 7 February 2016

Our guide, Guillermo, was waiting around for us when I went down to reception ahead of Daisy.  I could very quickly tell we would all get on well.

We set off to tour Managua on our way to Leon.  First stop, Parque Nacional de la Loma de Tiscapa with its panoramic view of Managua.  We also saw the silhouette of Sandino and the Laguna de Tiscapa.

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On the way up, Daisy stopped the car in order to take a picture, only to fall foul and then eventually fair of the soldier posted near the miltary buildings to stop people taking photographs.

Then on to the Museo Nacional, near the Casa Presidencial and the ruins of the old cathedral.  We decided that my hat looked very Sandino when we were outside the museum, even down to the “bullet holes” in the crown.  

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Guillermo wanted to give us full value in there so we tried to speed him up a bit. Saw some quite interesting modern art towards the end from the Praxis movement, in particular Armando Morales.

Daisy was feeling the heat by then, so it was good news that our next stop was the malecon where we stopped at a rancho-style place for some light refreshments.  Guillermo had lemonade, I had Coke Zero and Daisy had a beer.  We all shared some fried plantain – initially a packet thing but then a dish of fresh food with cheese and cabbage salad (we abstained from the latter).

While washing my hands I made a new friend, Dennis, who was drunk as a skunk and wanted to know if I loved his country (which I said I did so far) and wanted to tell me that he loved my country, which was nice. Unfortunately, he thought my country was the USA so he seemed a bit discombobbed when I said I was from England.  He then introduced his wife, who I realised was both very good looking and extremely unimpressed by Dennis’ desire to chat with me.  I made my excuses to them both and moved on.

Nicaragua, Arrival, 6 to 7 February 2016

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6 February, rose early to catch earlyish flight.  Left home at 7:15 – same Ethiopian driver as took us to Kim and Mickey’s recently.  He’d forgotten the conversation we’d had with him that time about our visit to Ethiopia 10 years ago, although I don’t suppose he has that sort of conversation very often.

Enjoyed the benefits of the Virgin Upper Class check in and security check, then the benefits  of the lounge. Last time we were in this lounge was 9 years ago (flying Air Jamaica to Havana) and I was not too well that day; this time I was able to enjoy the benefits of the place.  Enjoyed breakfasty stuff such as yoghurt with granola and smoked salmon bagels,

Soon enough we were in the air on our way to Atlanta, where we are to pick up our ongoing flight to Managua.

Daisy tucked into the grub more than I did, having a sort of marinated beef dish, which she enjoyed.  I just had the soup and the cheese/biscuits without a main.

Daisy slept a fair bit more than I did (probably all that food and wine) but I took advantage of the time to read about Nicaragua and watch two movies; Mistress America (on Nigel Hinks’ excellent and reliable advice) and then the Minions movie (following my own heart to the animated stuff).  Both wonderful.

Change at Atlanta – the usual US nonsense of having to enter the country merely to leave it and all the paperwork and queuing that entails.  At least the officials in Atlanta seem to have been trained to try and deal with vistors nicely, rather than the “illegal migrant” treatment we experienced transiting in Miami all those years ago.

The Delta lounge was very pleasent, not least because we could enjoy a glass of wine on the sun deck, check the cricket score to discover that England won the second ODI today and try cheese grits – perhaps the blandest savoury dish in the world.

A bit of a delay for the Managua flight, despite the “on time” message right up until we went down for boarding.  In the end, about 1 hour delay but irritating and at the end of a long journey not exactly fun.  The flight was mostly/populated by US churchy-folk off to do missionary/charity work and it was clear that some of them were known to the crew. Our cabin attendant was very friendly and attentive.

We were met by Edgar who took us straight to the hotel, which seems lovely on reflection this morning, but last night seemed a bit dingy and we struggled to get a room with double bed and air conditioning that works properly,  In the end of course we achieved both.

The breakfast was a little uninspiring, not that we needed inspiration this morning.  Daisy got excited at the sight of an espresso machine much like mine, but we were told it doesn’t work so had to make do with some fairly stewed stuff.  Daisy had bread and banana, while I tried some cake and a cinnamon bun that was pretending to be Danish.  We both had a fortified pot of yoghurt made palatable with honey.

In fact, Los Robles is a beatiful hotel and we are retrospectively pleased we chose to stay locally, avoiding yet more travel late last night and providing an opportunity to see Managua and Old Leon on our way to Leon today.  Exciting prospects indeed.