Journey To Lebanon, Syria, Jordan & Eilat (Israel), Day Nine: Palmyra To Damascus Via A Stunning Aramaic Town: Maaloula, 11 March 1997

Maaloula looking resplendent on the hillside

A placeholder & links covering the whole journey can be found through the link here and below:

Left Palmyra heading for Damascus. Past phosphate factory and then diverted to Maaloula – old painted village [town].

I can only apologise to Ogblog readers for Daisy’s and my failure to photograph the phosphate factory, saving our film for the beautiful town/village of Maaloula.

We had tea at Chez Abu George – then saw the Convent of Saint Thecla – a nice little orphanage church and shrine

…then went and tried local wine and Aramaic with Abu George.

I don’t know why we have no photos of Abu George. But I did procure a cassette from him of Aramaic singing, which I have since digitised, so you too can try some Aramaic:

Aramaic Songs Side One
Aramaic Songs Side Two
Have one last look at Maaloula

Then climbed hill via stream to second church (Saint Sarkis) then saw some cave dwellings and scenic views & on to Safir Hotel for snack.

Seriously scenic views

Bumped into our dear old friend (the chef from the Safir Homs) who specially produced Syrian country soup (lentil & lamb) – lovely. Then onto Damascus for [Cham Palace] health centre, revolving restaurant, dinner and early night.

You can see The Great (Umayyad) Mosque Of Damascus in the distance

All the photos from the Syrian leg of our journey can be found here or below:

01 After the border crossing from Lebanon to Syria - it's Crak des Chevaliers LSJ_1997_D4 (20)

Journey To Lebanon, Syria, Jordan & Eilat (Israel), Day Eight: A Magical Day In Palmyra, 10 March 1997

A placeholder & links covering the whole journey can be found through the link here and below:

Set off around funeral tombs times two (guide Najib)… 

Then toured Museum before touring ruins – small temples, Avenue, Agora, amphitheatre, tetrapylon etc. Huge site.

Then onto temple of ball – very well preserved. Holy of holies etc.

Then had tea at Abdul’s hotel and onto citadel for wander round…

Janie decided not to buy this headgear

back down to town and through oasis – back into town – shopped a little (tea with John bought pot etc.)

…then back to hotel for tennis etc.

Never mind Hotel Zenobia – Janie played tennis like Queen Zenobia – I struggled.

…then dinner at Palmyra restaurant – baked kofte and a gift of spices – early night again.

Another fabulous day, this. It is so sad that ISIS has all-but destroyed this site and much of what we saw. It was a magical place to visit in 1997.

All the photos from the Syrian leg of our journey can be found here or below:

01 After the border crossing from Lebanon to Syria - it's Crak des Chevaliers LSJ_1997_D4 (20)

Journey To Lebanon, Syria, Jordan & Eilat (Israel), Day Seven: Aleppo To Palmyra Via Abdel’s Friends & Bedouin People, 9 March 1997

Inside The Bedouin Tent

A placeholder & links covering the whole journey can be found through the link here and below:

Geddo [I] was pretty poorly (marid [bedevilled]). Set off early – tea and cake in cafe (tea deliberately [strongly] made to make Ged throw up.

Abdel sure knew what he was doing to make my indisposition short, far from sweet but also far from debilitating. My guess is that I got my upset stomach the day before, not from eating at Abdel’s house, but from foolishly munching at nuts before washing my hands after buying them for cash in the Aleppo souk.

The moment of truth from the previous day captured on film – Janie has the negatives

Anyway…

Then [we] made friends with potato people at Al Habett and with bread makers at Kefram Bouda.

Then saw ruins at Apamea – splendid.

Then visited Abdel’s friends in Shezar.

The women in this household said I looked like their favourite Syrian soap opera star.
We didn’t stay to eat but naturally these Shezar people offered us food.

Then long drive to Palmyra– Hama, Homs, countryside and then desert. Visited Bedouin family 40km west of Palmyra…

Yoghurt making was their thing. The young woman on the right complained of pains in her gut. Contrary to the text book, Janie gave her some paracetamols and suggested that she only seek medical help if those didn’t relieve the pain.

Better to have me inside the tent…

…before arriving at Palmyra at dusk. Early supper in hotel and early night.

A truly memorable and enjoyable day, despite the fact that I was feeling wobbly throughout and that long journey days are not normally the most memorable/enjoyable.

All the photos from the Syrian leg of our journey can be found here or below:

01 After the border crossing from Lebanon to Syria - it's Crak des Chevaliers LSJ_1997_D4 (20)