Journey To Lebanon, Syria, Jordan & Eilat (Israel), Day Fifteen: Petra To Eilat Via Wadi Rum & Aqaba, 17 March 1997

Wadi Rum

Set off at 7:30. Visited Little Petra ( Siq Al-Barid) including boulder-blocked view.

Then down to Al-Bayda ([aka Beidha] – circa 7000 BC village).

Then straight off to Wadi Rum in open top jeep to see Lawrence’s Well plus rock formations with Nabatean and Thamudic inscriptions.

Not a poser

Another hugely photogenic place – Wadi Rum – we took loads more pictures than shown in this piece and it is well worth a click through to see the full highlights set (link at bottom of this piece).

Saleh & Janie – not a posed photograph

Then onto Aqaba – shawarma and calamari lunch

Then on for weird border crossing alone but it all came right in the end.

This border crossing was quite a thing.

There had been a terrible shooting, subsequently known as The Island of Peace Massacre, at one of the few other Jordan/Israel road border crossings, just a few days before our crossing. As a result, the Aqaba crossing site was more or less completely deserted.

Unconnected with the extra security, there was a strict “passengers only” rule at the crossing, so our Jordanian driver/guide had to say goodbye to us at the Jordanian barbed wire and we had to do our own thing walking across several hundred meters of no-mans-land between the Jordanian side and the Israel side. The site was surrounded by hills from which you couldn’t help feeling an Island of Peace-type lunatic could shoot having secreted themselves there with ease, despite the enormous security presence at each side, but not in no-mans-land.

We each had a trolley for our baggage. The trolleys had traditional “minds of their own” making it extremely difficult for us to walk in anything vaguely approximating a straight line, which rendered the several hundred meters of no-mans-land even longer.

Worst of all, our trolleys were squeaky, which meant that the only sound we heard in the eerily vacant no-mans-land was the “eek…eek..eek” of our own progress wheeling the trolleys.

It felt a bit like a scene in a Sam Peckinpah or Sergio Leone movie. This scene might give you some idea of it:

Once we got to the Israeli side, we learnt that border control and all the additional security was the entirety of the waiting party…our Israeli driver/guide had not turned up.

A bright spark at border control asked to see our travel documents and quickly worked out which agency to call, placed the call and told us that our driver would be with us within 10 minutes…which he was. I don’t think anyone imagined that we would press ahead with the road/foot border crossing in the circumstances…no-one else had done so that day!

Spent a tired evening relaxing in [Princess] hotel.

A placeholder & links covering the whole journey can be found through the link here and below:

All the photos from the Jordan leg of our journey can be found here or below:

001 14 March - Jordan - Jerash - Crossed the border to see magnificent Roman ruins at Jerash LSJ_1997_G7 (10)

Journey To Lebanon, Syria, Jordan & Eilat (Israel), Day Fourteen: A Day Touring Petra, 16 March 1997

Petra must be one of the most photogenic places on earth and it is not hard to take or find good pictures of it. Even our highlights album (linked at the bottom of this piece, with narrative on each picture) has more than 35 Petra pics and I have limited this post to just 10 – the highlights of the highlights – as eye candy.

Set off at nine – Ali introduced us to our [local] guide Talat. Went by foot to Siq and through Siq – saw Treasury [see headline picture] etc, streets of facades, Roman theatre, look at the royal tombs, central city, colonnaded Street, Kasr Al Bint…

One thing Janie and I particularly remember is how immature the local guide, Talat, was. He insisted on holding Janie’s hand a lot and we suspected that Janie’s natural friendly manner was being received as “the wrong signals” by him. He was quite a contrast with the rather gruff, fuddy-duddy guide, Ali, who has been showing us around the rest of Jordan – himself a contrast with the truly excellent Syrian guide Abdel.

Quick look at museum and then up “back way” to Zibb Attuf (Great High Place) – superb vistas…

No chance, Talat

…then secret route back (more amazing vistas) and tea with Talat’s uncle Mohammed…

I have long suspected that Petra’s “secret way back” from the High Place is one of the worst kept secrets in tourism. Lovely walk though.

…then short rest before dinner of Mansef and Musakhan at Al Mehbash.

A placeholder & links covering the whole journey can be found through the link here and below:

All the photos from the Jordan leg of our journey can be found here or below:

001 14 March - Jordan - Jerash - Crossed the border to see magnificent Roman ruins at Jerash LSJ_1997_G7 (10)

Journey To Lebanon, Syria, Jordan & Eilat (Israel), Day Thirteen: Amman To Petra Via Several Crusader Castles, 15 March 1997

Kerak

Headed off after hotel confusion – vouchers to pay etc.

We still cannot remember what that hotel confusion was, so it must have been relatively minor even though I felt it worthy of writing down – perhaps I thought there might be some come back on our return to blighty.

We had a whistle-stop ride through the posh suburbs of Amman on our way out towards Petra:

Saw Mount Nebo (including Moses Tomb!) and church relics. Then St George’s Church in Madaba ([including] map mosaics).

Then on to Kerak (another Crusader castle!) And lunch of mousakhan [or Musakhan].

We absolutely fell in love with that tasty yet simple Palestinian chicken dish, Musakhan, just as we had fallen in love with the lamb dish Mansef a couple of days earlier. 25 years on, such dishes have become well known through celebrity chefs such as Yotam Ottolenghi, but back then we only knew to ask for them because Janie’s Middle-Eastern clients gave her such good notes ahead of our trip.

Then on down the Kings Highway for more vistas and Shoubak (another Crusader castle) [aka Montreal Castle] as the temperature dropped!

Arrived in Petra in time for glorious sunset, meeting with agent to sort out the hotel confusion and arrange tomorrow night’s “last night of touring feast”.

A placeholder & links covering the whole journey can be found through the link here and below:

All the photos from the Jordan leg of our journey can be found here or below:

001 14 March - Jordan - Jerash - Crossed the border to see magnificent Roman ruins at Jerash LSJ_1997_G7 (10)