Delhi, Bhutan, Nepal & Dubai Journey Day Seven: From Punakha To Paro Via Thimpu & Lots Of Great Sights, 25 March 2000

Incredible luck at Dochu La – we could see the Bhutanese Himalayas clearly.

Rose early (5:45) for early set off. Left at 7:10 (more or less on time for once) for Thimpu.

We snapped one or two street scenes – we’d done a lot of snapping on the outbound journey along this route.

Collected air tickets and did email to Fiona…

I have no idea why Pema hid behind a tree at this juncture. Perhaps he thought I was going to complain about him to our Steppes East agent, Fiona. Perish the thought. I think it was just a query about one of our onward flight documents that I wanted checked/confirmed ahead of potential problems at the airport.

Then on to big Dzong (Trashi Chhoe Dzong) which did little for us…

Doesn’t look trashy to me…

Then on to Thimpu weekend market which did a lot more for us: – trinkets, vegetables, spices, etc…

…and newspapers – my letter has been published in full! On to see the archers, followed by lunch at Plums

Not every day I see my letter in the press. Pema looks underwhelmed, or at least unsurprised.

After lunch set off for Paro. We actually saw and snapped Himalayas at Dochu La! [See headline picture]…

Liked the look of the vistas a lot. Did not like the look of that forest fire.

Checked into hotel somewhat tentatively as a big forest fire seemed mighty close and there was no electricity.  Went off touring anyway – took pictures of Paro Dzong, museum etc…

…then up to ruins of Drukgyel Dzong for stunning photos 

…on to start of trial – then back to see round stunning Kykhu Lhakhang (really old monastery).

Then back feeling very nervous via Olathang Hotel, which has room. (By this time I have concluded the Druk Hotel is not a good idea).

We get leave to leave from the manager who is in a conference with a three star general) and flee to an Olathang Cottage (which I like but at first Daisy doesn’t), as our sense of humour fades as fast as the day!

We learnt afterwards that the Druk Paro did not burn down, but it did smell smoky and was without power for quite some time.

Photographs from this day are pictures 053 to 085 in the album you can click through below:

001 Vistas on the road to Punakha DBD_J4_Photo33_32

Delhi, Bhutan, Nepal & Dubai Journey Day Six: Day Trip To Phobjika Valley From Punakha, 24 March 2000

This day trip to the Phobjikha Valley was just such a photogenic and memorable day. The words from my journal add so little to the pictures.

Wangdue Dzong

Day trip to Pobjikha Valley. Set off a little late, delayed by interesting American, Laurie. Through Wangdue (snapped the Dzong from a distance) and through Wangdue Valley (with river, stunning in parts)…

…then climbing into Black Mountains through Nobding (where we dispensed pens)…

…and up shortcut into Phobjika Valley (stunning)…

…went to Gante Gompa (monastery) where we snapped many young monks…

…then deeper into valley. Fortune was with us, the rare black necked crane had stayed late this year. So we trekked 20 minutes or so to the observation point and saw about 20 of them. (I even spotted two that Pema hadn’t seen).

Even if you crane at the screen you’ll struggle to see the cranes on the photo. But we got a good look at them

Super picnic after that chicken, potatoes, rice with chicken, shared with farmers, about half an hour nearer home.

This farmer was deaf and dumb and very grateful for a share of our enormous picnic.

All shall have picnic.

…and then drove home back the way we came. An angry looking power worker had us in stitches at the Wangdue gas station.

I cannot explain what was so funny about that power worker. He was very red in the face and he was a great big bloke who looked oversized for his vehicle. He was angry about something at the gas station but no-one there seemed to understand his growling and we (initially me and Janie. but soon also Pema) were in fits of laughter. “Power Man” possibly got more angry once he realised that we were laughing at him, but we simply couldn’t stop laughing. If you need a mental picture, think of the angry farmer in Shaun The Sheep:

This was so incongruous in Bhutan, which is a tranquil place where our instincts suggested that expressing our frustration if things were happening slowly or inefficiently could not help, indeed could only hinder.

Enough on him. We saw plenty more beautiful and interesting things while returning to Meri Puensum.

Spent late afternoon relaxing and enjoying dinner. OK. Fried pork momos, local trout, rice, vegetables, and a little pork. Met proprietor of hotel and then early night.

The photos from this day are all on the album linked below – 019 to 052:

001 Vistas on the road to Punakha DBD_J4_Photo33_32

Delhi, Bhutan, Nepal & Dubai Journey Day Five: From Thimpu To Punakha Via Beautiful Vistas, 23 March 2000

Thimpu – the only capital city in the world with no traffic lights.

Wrote to Kuensel about risk reward and financial exchanges. Set off via water purchase and Kuensel offices in direction of Punakha.

Pema and I enter the Kuensel offices, where Pema explains to one of the journalists that it will be in everyone’s interests if they publish a letter by such an eminent English writer as me.

Went to Dochula – couldn’t see Himalayas through mist. On through Thinleygang Valley and then on through Punakha Chuu.

The vistas on that part of the journey, through the valleys, were stunning. The above a mere smattering of the pictures we took.

Then lunch at Punakha Hotel. Okay. On to Punakha Zhong – no photos inside and somewhat disturbing take the forced labour to complete the works. Very beautiful nonetheless.

On to Dechen Cottages…

Lush scenes on the way to Dechen Cottages

…which we have been told are rustic, but the lack of electricity (we’ve been warned) plus lack of stone bath (which was why we have chosen the place) and lack of hot water (ouch, it was cold) induced us to seek a little more comfort elsewhere.

Fell on our feet by checking out a new hotel we passed on the way, Meri Puensum Resort, with a much nicer look than Punakha Hotel. We ate Chinese style (garlic chicken, pork with mushroom, mixed veg) – early night.

Our photos from this day are 093 to 096 from the first album and 001 to 018 from the second – click album links below:

01 9 March 2000 Delhi Imperial Hotel - Ian with the doorman and our guide Harmahindra Singh and driver G Singh DBD_J1_Photo01_0
001 Vistas on the road to Punakha DBD_J4_Photo33_32