An Independent Trip To Northern Thailand & Vietnam, Part Four: From Chiang Mai Province To Chiang Rai Province, 16 March 1996

Chiang Rai Province – Akha People By The Mae Kok

[I have been pulling my journal notes together for Ogblog using a dictation app – no prizes for guessing what some of this piece looked like before I corrected the dictation]

Rose quite early – left Lisu village. 

The taller of the sweet children was a bit tearful saying goodbye to us

Headed north. Long drive – stopped for coffee on Mae Kok/Myanmar border.

Then on to Akha village [see headline picture and below]

…then Mae Salong (ex KMT people from Yunnan) market – [then] lunch at a good Chinese restaurant.

I seem to remember that Chinese lunch being especially good, with high grade barbequed meats as a centrepiece, but we obviously did not find Mae Salong (now renamed Santikhiri), or at least the part of it we went to, photogenic.

Then on to [a] Yao village in the mountains…

Yao people (above) and Kongburi explaining a Yao pipe’s purpose (below)

…then on to Mae Khong River near Chiang Saen – boat ride to Sop Ruak – Golden Triangle – Laos, Myanmar and Thailand…

I cannot see Mae Salong from here…perhaps they’ve changed the name.
Laotian people above, a shot of Laos, Myanmar & Thailand tri-point below

…on to Baan Boran Hotel for early night.

All of our photos from the Thai leg of the journey can be found on Flickr through the link here and below.

=01 13 March 1996 - Jim Thompson

An Independent Trip To Northern Thailand & Vietnam, Part Three: To Chiang Mai Province, Visiting Hmong & Lisu Hill Tribes, 15 March 1996

Set off early for Chiang Mai – met by Kongburi and driver L’Erm.

All right, orchid?

Butterflies

Set off, saw orchids & butterfly garden, then on to a Hmong village

Hmong Village (above) with Hmong people (below)

Then on to Tad Mok Falls.

Then Chinese lunch in Mae Ta – on through the market and then to Mae Taeng elephant ride fiasco followed by bamboo rafting.

I described the elephant ride as a fiasco, because I recall really feeling uncomfortable about the elephants, especially my one, who seemed unhappy and hungry. Mine kept wandering off to the side of the track to try to grab a nibble, only to be roughly discouraged from doing so by the dude at the front of the elephant. I note that if you Google “Mae Taeng Elephant Park” 25 years later, you find a lot of bad reviews and references to cruelty. I’m not surprised based on our experience.

Unusually for me, I found the raft trip afterwards more to my taste than the elephant ride, whereas I was expecting to feel more comfortable on land!

In the Lisu Village – Kongburi negotiating while I display the body language of indifference

Then on to Lisu Village – quaint Lisu Lodge – just us [staying the night]…

…the music and the giant flying roaches.

Showered washed and walked around village – got sold to – ate – got played at – then to bed.

I really should expand the story of our stay at the Lisu Lodge. It was a lovely but fairly rudimentary place back then. It is a fancy-schmanzy eco lodge now. Good luck to the place.

The Lisu people were sweet and gentle and very welcoming. They did seem especially keen to sell us their trinkets though.

We were the only guests that night.

Janie and I particularly remember the meal. We have just the one photo of me being served the food (above).

We had been looking forward to our private dining experience. However, we were joined more or less throughout the meal by a local who serenaded us with his traditional stringed instrument, which was probably a relative of the pipa or Chinese lute. He played pretty well and at first it sounded really nice, but after a while we were craving a little more privacy and a little less noise.

Then, out of the blue, came a giant flying roach (or beetle) which noisily landed right behind us and startled us both. The musician calmly stopped playing and gently removed the beetle in his hands. Daisy and I gave the musician a round of applause for removing the giant insect, which he took to be applause for the end of his set, so he bowed and left, taking the pipa and beetle with him.

Thus we spent the rest of our meal in quiet, tranquil privacy.

All of our photos from the Thai leg of the journey can be found on Flickr through the link here and below.

=01 13 March 1996 - Jim Thompson

An Independent Trip To Northern Thailand & Vietnam, Part Two: A Day At The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market & Then Bangkok Markets, 14 March 1996

Janie loves a market and our first full day on this trip was very much a “tour markets” day.

Salty scenes on the way to the floating market

Rose early – left for Damnoen Saduak Floating Market with private guide Priong and driver Roj.

Look round market (very photogenic).

Very photogenic – see headline picture, above and below. In truth quite a touristic place, even back then.

Return to town – fabulous seafood lunch on Soi 24 Sukhamvit – top rate.

Then home straight on to Oriental Hotel and shopping plazas – light supper in River City Shopping Centre – then home for early night.

I look a little under-dressed there for the Oriental Hotel, but oh my gosh I still have that holiday short-sleeved shirt
Daisy looks like the sort of lass who likes her grub.

All of our photos from the Thai leg of the journey can be found on Flickr through the link here and below.

=01 13 March 1996 - Jim Thompson

An Independent Trip To Northern Thailand & Vietnam, Part One: Arrival & Bangkok, 12 & 13 March 1996

Writing up our first major independent travel holiday, 25 years later, in March 2021, is no easy task. While I did take notes on this trip, which helps, I did not keep the sort of comprehensive journal that was my habit on earlier big trips and became my habit again later.

Further, Janie and I have both mislaid our printed itinerary for this adventure, although I know I did have a copy of it as recently as 2011 when we were arranging a return visit to Vietnam; infuriating.

Still, we have a wonderful collection of annotated photos, which helps. I also still have our trusty mid 1990s copies of the Lonely Planet Guides to Thailand and Vietnam, well thumbed and helpfully folding open easily on the more oft-used pages.

So let’s go!

12 March 1996 – Left London on time! Event free flight.

I told you the notes are quite light. I’m pretty sure we flew Thai Air. Last class it would have been, but on Thai Air that wasn’t too bad.

13 March 1996 – Arrive Bangkok on time (6:20 am). Went to BelAire Princess [now BelAire Bangkok] with drunken guide Kai.

Bathed and then set off for Jim Thompson House (interesting).

See headline photo and also the one below.

Then on to Chinatown for fine noodle lunch and look around markets etc.

Chinatown & markets, Bangkok style – above and below

Took tuk-tuk back to hotel – slept.

Dined in the hotel – Thai meal – then slept more.

All of our photos from the Thai leg of the journey can be found on Flickr through the link here and below.

=01 13 March 1996 - Jim Thompson's house, Bangkok - exterior 011

Don’t Let My Son Go Down On You, Unfinished Lyric, 27 February 1996

A rare example of an unfinished lyric. Deservedly so, though. Not enough possible laughs in this tacky little idea. Nice, sordid pun on the song title though.

DON’T LET MY SON GO DOWN ON YOU
(To the Tune of “Don’t Let The Sun Go Down On Me”)
VERSE 1 – QUEEN

I can’t lie,
No more over Charlie;
All these Windsors,
Seem to chase a bit of fluff;
I’m grown tired,
Of the papers here before me;
Making fun, of our soap opera stuff;
Too late,
To save my Chuck from screwing;
He took a bitch,
Could not resist her muff;
She was on heat,
Camilla had no contest;
Charles prefered her showing up to throwing up.

CHORUS 1

Don’t let my son go down on you,
(Don’t let the son)
Although it sounds obscene, it’s something royals shouldn’t do;

Here is Elton John singing Don’t Let The Sun Go Down On Me, with lyrics.

It’s Mens Health Week, NewsRevue Lyric, 27 February 1996

I can see why I wrote this and I can see why, in all probability, it didn’t make it into NewsRevue.  One or two good lines though.

IT’S MENS HEALTH WEEK
(To the Tune of “It’s Good News Week”)

INTRO

BBC ANNOUNCER: And now, as part of the BBC Mens Health Week., a documentary for men with testicular cancer and gonorrhoea; “Great Balls of Fire”.

VERSE 1

It’s Mens Health Week,
BBC’s new festival, about an enlarged testicle,
That looks odd when you streak;
It’s Mens Health Week,
Prostate gland is getting big, and balding men won’t wear a wig,
To hide their ugly peak.

MIDDLE EIGHT

Have you seen the shows? What did they say?
Men under stress. One in ten at least is gay.
(One in ten at least is gay)

VERSE 2

It’s Mens Health Week,
BBC’s huge influence, will tackle British impotence,
Of which we seldom speak;
It’s Mens Health Week,
Phone the helpline, read the book, but don’t look down and take a look,
In case you are a freak.

MIDDLE EIGHT 2

Have you courted help? Which way to turn?
Claire Raynor’s crap. So’s that cow Anna Raeburn.
(Not that cow Anna Raeburn)

VERSE 3

It’s Mens Health Week
BBC afflicting men, with fears about their little friend,
Which dribbles when they leak;
It drips all week,
Alan Yentob’s master plan, to paint himself as superman,
And spare us from repeats, and spare us from repeats, yes spare us from repeats.

Below is a video of It’s Good News Week by Hedgehoppers Anonymous:

Click here for lyrics to It’s Good News Week.

Cézanne, NewsRevue Lyric, 26 February 1996

I didn’t often write lyrics for news items such as major art exhibitions, perhaps for good reason. I don’t think this one made the cut…

…which is a shame, as it has a lot going for it.

Coincidentally, I got to this lyric quite by chance on the day that Daisy and I are off to see the new Giacometti at the Tate (16 May 2017) – naturally to be reported on Ogblog very soon.

I could give Cézanne a go on the baritone ukulele; that would be fun.

CEZANNE
(To the Tune of “Suzanne”)
VERSE 1

Cezanne takes you down to the Tate near the river,
You can hear the crowds go by, you can spend the night there queuing;
And you know that he was crazy, but that’s why you want to be there,
Cos he painted Mont Sainte-Victoire, in the shape of a large phallus;
And just when you mean to savour, the large pictures of the bathers,
Then he gets you with his missus, sitting in a yellow armchair,
Cos he always was pretentious.

CHORUS 1

And you want to ease your bladder, and you’re dying for some space,
But you dare not leave the circuit, cos you queued all day and mustn’t lose your place.

VERSE 2

And Degas was a painter, who was daft obsessed with water,
And he spent a long time watching, all the ladies in the bathroom;
And when he knew for certain, that those ladies couldn’t see him,
He said “artists should paint bathers that’s a good excuse for peeping”.
So Cezanne painted bathers, they’d not yet invented ravers;
In eighteen ninety something, they hadn’t learnt to party much at all.

CHORUS 2

And you want to ease your bladder, and your vitals are so sore,
And you’d die for a Pissaro, or an artist who had once learnt how to draw.

VERSE 3

Now Cezanne takes the stand, at the Tate near the river,
He’s the nation’s new obsession in the hyped up exhibition;
And the show makes heaps of money, from an unsuspecting public,
Who wouldn’t know the difference, between garbage and grand masters;
So don’t you try to tell them, that the merchandise you sell them;
Is a massive con that’s bigger, than his painting of card players,
Cos Cezanne turned them silly.

CHORUS 3

And you want to say you’re cultured and you want to be refined,
But you don’t know arse from elbow, the impression that you give is that you’re blind.

I tried a variant of the lyric a few days later, merely changing the third verse opening couplet to refer to a newly launched fizzy drink named Shazam (see below). I can find no references to that particular fizzy pop on-line, which must make that substitution an even more obscure story. Now, of course, everyone thinks of Shazam as the app to help identify a tune/song.

VERSE 3

Now Shazam tastes real bland, like a pee in the river,
It’s a fizz without a mission like the Cezanne exhibition;

Here’s Leonard Cohen singing Suzanne with the lyrics on the screen:

Submission To Lizzy Dyson Re NewsRevue, 22 February 1996

Lizzy Dyson
News Revue

LIST OF SONGS SUBMITTED AND TAPE TRACK LISTING
FEBRUARY-APRIL 1996 RUN

Dear Lizzy

I apologise for taking so long to get a starter pack to you. This starter pack consists of songs currently in the show and previously unperformed songs. I shall try to write you some more this weekend.

Call me and let me know if you are short of any subjects or styles and I shall try to oblige. If you want me to rewrite of an old chestnut of mine that you might have uncovered in the archive, just let me know. Also, if any of the enclosed need a bit of rewrite then I am happy to change them on request.

Good luck and I look forward to seeing you soon.

Song Title
Original Title/
Artist on Tape Aprox. No. of weeks performed
7+ 4-6 1-3 New
side 1
michael winner eats it all the winner takes it all / abba N
don’t you want me voters? don’t you want me? / human league N
hooray for bollywood hooray for hollywood / hollywood hotel N
goatee swanee / al jolson 4-6
stakeholder dont sit under the apple tree / andrew sisters 4-6
whitewater 1996 oh susannah / trad 4-6
penguin 60s when I’m 64 / beatles N
rip it off / halitoasis roll with it & whatever / oasis N

Stanley by Pam Gems, Cottesloe Theatre, 13 February 1996

My log and indeed my memory is unequivocal about this one:

Quite outstanding. One of the very, very best.

A rare visit to the theatre midweek, I’m guessing that our impending trip to Thailand & Vietnam restricted our choices of dates for this one. Such was our desire to see it, we booked a midweek evening to be sure of seeing the production.

Both Antony Sher and Deborah Warner were superb in their roles, as indeed was the whole supporting cast.

Here is the Theatricalia entry for this play/production.

In truth, Stanley Spencer’s art is not really my bag, but his story is strange and peculiarly touching, certainly as told in this excellent play by Pam Gems.

Strangely, I cannot find a Guardian review for this one, but Michael Simons previewed it:

Michael Simons Previews StanleyMichael Simons Previews Stanley Mon, Jan 22, 1996 – 57 · The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) · Newspapers.com

Paul Taylor gave the play & production rich praise in The Independent.

Michael Coveney in The Observer agreed the play was excellent and enjoyed the production too:

Coveney On StanleyCoveney On Stanley Sun, Feb 4, 1996 – 68 · The Observer (London, Greater London, England) · Newspapers.com

It picked up awards and stuff, did Stanley. But there’s no praise higher than the Ged & Daisy accolade quoted at the top of this piece.

Penguin 60s, NewsRevue Lyric, 12 February 1996

Penguin 60s were little précis of bigger books.

In late 1995 and early 1996 they were “a thing”.

Hence, a miniature lyric.

PENGUIN 60S
(To the Tune of “When I’m 64”)
VERSE 1

When I get older,
Losing my brain,
And attention span;
Will I still be reading War and Peace or Proust?
A la
Recherche
De Temps Perdue?

Will I stay up till quarter to three,
Reading Chapter 4?

Give me a racey,
Miniature précis,
(What are) Penguin 60s for??

MIDDLE EIGHT

Every summer we shall read a dozen on the Isle of Wight,
Cos they’re not too dear.
We shall…………
(perhaps flick through several pages to the ending)

THE ENDING

…….read cheaply,
But ever so briefly,
(What are) Penguin 60s for??

Here is a half-decent cover of When I’m 64 (originally by the Beatles) with lyrics on the screen: