At the Bastar Jungle Resort, in Chhattisgarh, central plains of India, we had great fun playing garden cricket after our touring on a couple of evenings; especially 5 February.
Our album of pictures from Bastar, more than 100 of them, can be seen through the following link:
Slept much better indeed felt good this morning. Got up in the sunshine, then took breakfast in garden.
Went to local village first, Kurandi village. Ged forgot to leave the key and Daisy forgot her proper walking shoes, but Shyamlal went back and forth to sort those things out.
We visited the junior school and then the middle school – lots of photos and pens.
The small children’s teacher organised a drawing competition and presented Daisy with the best pictures. Senior girls sang us “We Shall Overcome” in English.
Umesh helped Jolly to guide us .
Then through Jagdalpur (museum unexpectedly closed). And then on to the Chitrakote waterfall. Also saw flying foxes in a tree.
Struggled to find a picnic spot but eventually found one about 10 to 15 km shy of Jagdalpur.
Then into Jagdalpur where we bought some kutar and pyjama (shalwar and camise) plus some balls for the cricket and skipping rope and a multi point.
Then back to base for cricket in the garden, using tree stumps as stumps.
Three matches of five-a-side, five overs per innings. Lots of fun. Shyamlal screaming like a banshee. Daisy taking lots of pictures.
Ged Ladd batting and bowling well. Personal highlights included getting Jolly out caught and bowled and a classical drive through extra cover for four.
I tried to tighten or even lose the third match by promoting Abhishek in the batting and bowling but he turned out to be a star player as did Gowardhan.
Jungle Formula only helped a little bit at that hour.
A more comprehensive report on the cricket has appeared separately, not least as a link to the MTWD match report of the fixtures – click here or below:
Got ready for dinner and enjoy their meal in the open air restaurant – the centrepiece being duck, but perhaps the starturn was Raj (Sohit’s) Chinese style chicken soup.
A lovely day.
In addition to the Bastar album, linked above, there is a collection of over 200 photos from that part of the adventure that didn’t make the album, which can be seen at the link below:
Our album of pictures from Bastar, more than 100 of them, can be seen through the following link:
Sleep badly. Early rise and pack.
Breakfast with Tommy and Mona. Then latterly (after Daisy has retired) Michael and John.
Another interesting chat with Joe, settle bill, lengthy goodbyes (we are taking Jolly away from them all) and away.
First stop – arts and crafts factory/school/showroom at Kumhar Para, Kondagoan village (about half way to Jagdalpur)…
…the place Jolly and Joe originally had in mind for the Bastar property, but the cousin had his own ideas…
…we had a quick picnic lunch there. Daisy and Jolly tried rickshaw riding there.
Then on to a tribal village market, Nagarnar Market – Maria tribes this time – perhaps a little more primitive.
Took good pictures, although I wasn’t feeling great.
Then on to Bastar Jungle Resort – settled in. Tried to have a good nap. Drinks with Jolly and his business partner Bunty Jai.
Long wait in the increasing cold for a modest supper of chicken, rice, daal and cauliflower.
A party of 50+ were rather quietly dining in the main area which was a bit surreal. Their food was much hotter, we were told. Jolly ate a little, stating that he wasn’t too hungry this evening.
Early night, after chilling and trying to fall over in the mud!
In addition to the Bastar album, linked above, there is a collection of over 200 photos from that part of the adventure that didn’t make the album, which can be seen at the link below:
Our album of pictures from Kanker, more than 80 of them, can be seen through the following link:
Slept pretty well and Rose at circa 6 o’clock.
Light breakfast and away just after 830.
Hit a big traffic jam on the road through Keshkal Ghat.
Jolly was a bit worried we might miss the tribe, being market day. But we probably only lost less than one hour in the process.
Picked up Munna And headed off to a Bhigawn para village – A deer horn Muria tribe. We visited the ghotul…
…then the school (penless, not forewarned) but played games with the children…
…and supervised their lunch.
Then we went to see the ghotul folk doing their dance – which they do at lunchtime on market day. Amazing stuff – superb drumming and skilful dancing – especially the stilts dance.
Before the dancing, a short welcome ceremony.
After the dancing, we had a boozy farewell ceremony, drinking the local spirit Mahua Drink made from Mahua seed.
Two home visits before departure, one scheduled…
…and one to the home of the village and joker who was very insistent.
Went on to take a picnic by side of road and then on to market…
…pretty photogenic – 22 local villages congregate each Thursday at the Bhigawn market.
After the market we returned to the Kanker Palace for the evening.
Reviewed photos on terrace after being shown many of Roberts photos. By a surprisingly friendly Robert. Mosquitoville, that terrace at that hour. Then washed and dressed the evening.
First up was an early evening entertainment on the erstwhile badminton court. The gathering included Michael and John, Swiss one nighter-bikers Tommy and Mona. Robert the German photographer and our cast of hosts and staff.
Robert tells us the tale of Panit Patel and sounds off generally about fake tribal dancing, which to be fair, this certainly was.
Jolly explained that he was trying to give some work to a troop of down on their luck dancers and that Westerners who hadn’t seen real tribal dances enjoy these entertainments. Perhaps only the Swiss pair fell into that category and even they might have seen the real thing, but they were perhaps more polite than others.
Robert then stated that the thing is to stay seated looking interested. He really hates it if the dancers ask the audience to join in and next up, Daisy is dancing wildly with the dancers and I also join in. Robert refuses. The dancers asked Daisy to teach them her dance!
Next up an audience with HRH – Joe and I have a very interesting chat about his studies, Gresham College, Z/Yen stuff and all.
Then dinner – Robert, Jolly, me and Daisy. More interesting chat. Then bed.
In addition to the Kanker album, linked above, there is a collection of over 200 photos from that part of the adventure that didn’t make the album, which can be seen at the link below:
Our album of pictures from Kanker, more than 80 of them, can be seen through the following link:
We both slept well and rose quite early, but still only more or less made our appointed breakfast time and even then the dining room was locked!
We ended up setting off a little late but no matter.
First stop was a walk to the rock paintings at Udkuda, where we saw the painted stones. Then on to a friends bidi factory.
Then we drove to Girhola (HRH’s hunting lodge village) where we saw a nursery school/medical nutritional advice centre, houses, schools And acquired a large pack of kids.
Took lunch of rice bread, daal, beans/peas and aubergine.
Rested a while, then set off for boat trip with Ravind (who had been our village guide) in tow. One hour boat trip through the Mahanandi river rushes (felt like three hours to Ged).
Then Ged spotted a cricket match on the river bank…
…so we docked early and took over the youngsters game for a while…
Ged’s batting was a bit better than his bowling – although he did get Jolly out with a top edged moon ball.
First slip was holding a fish for some time, but sadly Daisy failed to capture that slippery aspect.
– then we walked back to the vehicle (no distance).
We return home for a craft shop (bamboo) opening at which we were the photo opportunity.
Then spent some time chatting with Jai and the new arrival John – followed by review of photos and then ready for dinner and then pre-dinner drinks around the fire with John, his partner Michael and the elusive German misanthropic “we’re all doomed” photographer Robert Huber, who chose to eat “later”.
In addition to the Kanker album, linked above, there is a collection of over 200 photos from that part of the adventure that didn’t make the album, which can be seen at the link below:
…and then we both take breakfast in the club lounge.
Mr Pasha takes us to the airport – Basquar is nowhere to be seen at first and pretty scarce even when he shows up. Still, our own “winning ways” get our enormous load on board for no surcharge.
Two scares – one when “Harris” from our flight is called because there is a problem with baggage – turns out that “Susan Harris” is a pasty-faced cultist or something on a weird looking American group.
Second scare – delay announced and then unannounced!
Met by Jolly and Abhishek at other end – circa 2 1/2 hour drive to Kanker.
We stopped briefly in Dhamtari where Jolly bought fruit and his friend the Brigadier gave us the benefit of his knowledge of London.
Introductions to the family and quick tour of the estate with Jai.
Drinks before supper around the campfire .
Simple supper of chicken, daal, “gherkin”, veg, cauliflower, rice. Washed down with some beer.
All our pictures from Hyderabad can be seen in the following Flickr album:
Rose early but still managed to faff around over ablutions and breakfast.
Set off just before 9 to Golconda Fort (30 minutes drive outside town). Our guide is called Jonny Wilson (really!)
Daisy & Jonny
We do the fort (all 360 steps up and surely fewer steep ones down)with several parties of Indian school kids. Daisy dances with one of the school teachers on the way down.
Daisy Dancing
Then on to the Qutb Shahi Tombs nearby. We explore one properly but Johnny denies this the other six or seven.
Qutb Shahi TombsCharminar
Next stop, the Charminar palace complex. Then on to the nearby Makkah Masjid – a vast mosque.
Makkah MasjidGed Ladd In Laad Bazaar
Then around the Laad Bazaar area – bought some citrus squeezer is And bangles from Michael and John’s girls.
Next stop, the Salar Jung museum which didn’t do all that much for us, although I liked the music o’clock at 3 pm.
Next a bit of a wild goose chase for the cricket stadium but eventually got in to the poor old ruin (Lal Bahadur Stadium).
Final stop, a craft shop that did little/nothing for us. So, home to rest/change for dinner at the Falaknuma Palace.
Before dinner we have cocktails in the Gol Bungalow.
Gol Bungalow…and Falaknuma you too!
We tried a lamb (ghost) starter with thin medallions of amazing tenderised lamb. Plus a trio of haleems, veg, chicken and lamb. Main course a different chicken murgh with coconut served with bread and some rice. Absolutely delicious.
Driver Pasha takes us home – excitedly discussing cricket.
The following is a diary extract, perhaps with one or more illustrative pictures.
Arrive in Hyderabad 4:45 India time.
Met by Basquar – arrange/bargain our way into early check-in at Taj Krishna.
Restful day sleeping, sorting, checking out hotel etc. Arrange to eat in Indian restaurant.
Take massage before dinner.
Club Room at the Taj Krishna. Hyderabad
Try wonderful Hyderabadi dishes – Haleem with Sheermal (wonderful slow-cooked lamb) and Dum Ka Murgh (creamy chicken dish) plus some lamb biryani hyderabadi style
