Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Five: Tinghir (Tinerhir) To Ouarzazate Via Dadès Gorges, 12 November 1997

Why not? – Gorges yourself!

Headed off quite early – visited Dadès Gorges – went in as far as car will sensibly go – attractive.

Drove through relatively hassle free villages…

The reference to “relatively hassle-free villages” was actually a throw back to the previous day, when we had encountered several instances of “little treasures” finding it amusing to throw stones and pebbles at our car as we passed through their villages on the Erfoud to Tineghir run.

…then drove out to Ouarzazate – arrived at hotel, nice and early – relaxed around pool.

Rested in room and unexceptional dinner in overflow room at Riad Salam, with monotonous music and interesting Irish journalists.

I don’t think we were wild about that hotel, with the “interesting Irish journalists” being the only highlight. We didn’t photograph the place at all.

All the photos from the first part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Four: Erfoud – Erg Chebbi Sunrise Then On To Tinghir (Tinerhir), 11 November 1997

Me & Guide Hassan – Erg Chebbi sunrise

Rose at 4:30 am to head off for sand dunes with our guide Hassan.

My abiding memory of this early morning jaunt is setting off from our hotel in our modest Renault 19 with Daisy at the wheel. Daisy, because I didn’t have the confidence even to attempt driving “off piste” in a Renault 19 before daylight. About five minutes into the tentative journey, Hassan said, with some authority, “if you want to get to Erg Chebbi in time to see the sunrise, you’d better let me drive.” So he did – and so we did see the sunrise.

Watched the sunrise at the large dunes, then went to examine the smaller ones…

…before home for shower and breakfast. Set off in direction of Tinerhir – an unremarkable, Sub-Saharan drive until we reached Todra Gorge…

…drove right into the canyon.

Todra Gorge Canyon

Tinerhir looking at its very best, as seen from Todra Gorge

Got to hotel in Tinerhir, to discover the whole town lacked water. After two to three hours of contingency planning we [decided to] stay put – [the] water came on – [we] ate an unexceptional meal.

All the photos from the first part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Three: Fes (Fez) To Erfoud, 10 November 1997

Drove from Fes to Erfoud– 6+ hours drive. Stopped briefly in Azrou (bank, tea). [Briefly] took hitchhiker and then made a long drive out to Erfoud.

Little of note on way. Arrived.

Arranged a guide for tomorrow’s sunrise trip to Erg Chebbi dunes.

Unremarkable, hotel and dinner (southern kasbah style, hotel and dinner).

All the photos from the first part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day Two: Around Fes (Fez) – Volubilis, Moulay Idriss & Meknes, 9 November 1997

Car arrived – drove out to Volubilis – wandered around ruins, recommended route…

We encountered these carrot people on the way to Volubilis

Volubilis – see also headline picture and Janie examining wonderful mosaics below

– then on to Moulay Idriss, briefly…

Actually Moulay Idriss was very photogenic, as the following sample pictures attest:

Moulay Idriss – farewell.

…then onto Meknes – round the Medina. Janie splashed out on a carpet (silk kilim) – then drove back to Fes.

Meknes Medina

Dinner at Palais Jamais – Dalaa M’Bachara (steamed lamb shoulder)– Delish.

All the photos from the first part of our journey are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

A placeholder and links for information about this whole trip can be found here and below.

We flew ou

Driving Holiday In Morocco Day One: Fes (aka Fez), 8 November 1997

A placeholder and links for information about this trip can be found here and below.

We flew out to Fes (or Fez) on the evening of 7 November. We stayed at the Palais Jamai there – we liked that place, although it flattered a little to deceive with a flashy outward appearance – much of Morocco was like that.

We had arranged a walking tour of the Fes Medina (only feet and mules are allowed) for our first day in Morocco. Our guide, Abdl Jawl, arrived promptly and without ceremony.

A selection of the photos and yarns follows. More photos can be found in the Flickr albums, linked at the bottom of each piece about this holiday.

Examining the snails

Colour-co-ordinated Moroccan women

Zawiyya (mausoleum) Moulay Idriss II

Medersa El-Attarine

Kairaoine Mosque

Debating with Abdl Jawl in Seffarine Medersa

Little treasures in a Seffarine District school

You’ll be grateful that the tanneries are not shown on a smelly-vision

In the souk we were neither persuaded to buy a carpet, nor a Fassie outfit

Having failed my audition as a Klansman, we took some lunch back at the Palace – Pastilla (Moroccan pigeon pie).

Stop the pigeon…

Then off again on a taxi tour to Fez Jdid.

Dar-el-Makhzen (Royal Palace)

Mellah (Jewish Quarter)

Then back to the Palais Jamai after a short stop in Fez New Town at the bank and book shop.

Me on our return to the Palais

Returned tired. Had Moroccan meal (kebabs, tajine lamb & couscous) at Palais Jamai

The diary is silent on this aspect but I think this was “afters”

All the photos from the first part of our journey (40 of them from that first day alone) are on this Flickr album – click here or below:

001 8 November 1997 - Only mules and pedestrians allowed in these Fes streets M_J1_Photo (2)

Overboard by Michael Vinaver, Orange Tree Theatre, 1 November 1997

Just me and Daisy this time at The Orange Tree – The Duchess was away on some sort of a bridge holiday IIRC.

Still, this play/production still seemed to last for ever. There is a seven hour version of the play – this just felt a bit like seven hours.

My log reads:

Somewhat rambling but has its moments.

The play is potentially enormously long (7 hours) – unsure of exact length of this production, but it seemed long although it was the short version.

Paul Taylor in The Independent independently reached a similar conclusion:

Overboard Taylor IndependentOverboard Taylor Independent 10 Oct 1997, Fri The Independent (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Charles Spencer in The Telegraph truly hated it:

Overboard Spencer TelegraphOverboard Spencer Telegraph 08 Oct 1997, Wed The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Our friend, Michael Billington, who is usually extremely kind to orange Tree stuff, seems to have omitted to review it. Speaks volumes.

Janie and I no doubt consoled ourselves with some Don Fernando grub afterwards.

Spin Talk Wizard, NewsRevue Lyric, 27 October 1997

I think Peter Mandelson was the main target of this lyric, although the connection between that 1997 Labour Government and spin doctoring more generally was fast becoming evident.

I don’t remember this lyric being used, but I was attending the show a lot less by then.

SPIN TALK WIZARD
(To the Tune of “Pinball Wizard”)

 

VERSE 1

Ever since I was a young man, I’ve addressed the Labour halls,
From Blackpool down to Brighton, I must have roused them all;
But I ain’t seen no-one like him, his tongue’s shaped like a fork;
That slime Peter Mandelson, sure plays a mean spin talk.

VERSE 2

Stands like a statue, he’s the heart of Blair’s machine,
Not one hair’s misplaced cos, he always wears Brylcream;
Spins with intuition, the Tories take a walk,
That geek Peter Mandelson, sure gives a mean spin talk.

CHORUS 1

He’s the Blair spin doctor,
There has to be a twist,
That Blair spin doctor,
Knows how to use his wrist.

MIDDLE EIGHT

How do you think he does it?
(Pure bullshit),
In Armani suits.

VERSE 3 – PETER MANDELSON HIMSELF

Even on their favourite subjects, Tories lose my twist,
My disciples lead me in, even ‘tho’ they don’t exist;
I’m a future Labour leader, anyone can see;
‘Tho’ that damned Trot Ken Livingstone, got on the NEC.

CHORUS 3

He’s the Blair spin doctor,
It has to be a joke;
Cos that Blair spin doctor is,
Such a twisted bloke.

MANDELSON: They mean that in the most positive way. BLACKOUT

The video below has The Who playing Pinball Wizard with the lyrics on the screen:

Submission To Jaspre Bark Re NewsRevue, 27 October 1997

Jaspre Bark
News Revue
27 September 1997
By Fax

Dear Jaspre

Sorry it has taken me a wee while to respond to your message, but I haven’t been around. I enclose one or two rewrites and some new/unused material.

If you want any other older ones rewritten let me know. Also, if you need recordings of any of these, please call and leave a message today – I could drop them crack of dawn tomorrow at the Canal if you need them.

Good luck and I look forward to seeing you soon.

Ian

The following songs are attached

Song Title
Original Title/
Artist Approx.. No. of weeks performed at Canal Cafe
7+ 4-6 1-3 New
gordon brown golden brown / stranglers N
spin talk wizard pinball wizard / who N
vulture in the wind candle in the wind / elton john N
smoke gets in your isles smoke gets in your eyes / bryan ferry 4-6
taliban carrie anne / hollies N
me and paula jones me and mrs jones / billy paul N
feng shui whip crack away N
ffion rave on / buddy holly 1-3
bruce grobbelar’s hat young, gifted and black / bob & marcia N
jack straw my name is jack / manfred mann N
hooray for bollywood hooray for hollywood N
monserrat monster mash / bruce “boris” pickett 1-3

I know the note itself is dated 27 September, but all the temporal evidence including the electronic evidence suggests that this really was written and delivered in late October.

London Philharmonic Orchestra Doing The Lenningrad Symphony And More At The Royal Festival Hall, 19 October 1997

For reasons no-one (not even herself) can explain, Janie is quite partial to Shostakovich, yet cannot abide Prokofiev.

Anyway, a client offered Janie a pair of fine seats at this concert and we said yes.

According to my log, we:

bumped into John and Angela [Kessler] there.

From memory, we encountered cousin Angela and John, rather than actually having a collision with them. I don’t think I knew, at that time, that Angela was on the Board of the LPO and I suspect that Angela and John were too polite to mention that fact.

We heard:

  • Bernd Alois Zimmerman – Trumpet Concerto “Nobody Knows de Trouble I See”
  • Dmitri Shostakovich – Symphony No 7 in C, Op 60 “Lenningrad”

Janie and I loved the Leningrad Symphony as performed that night by the LPO under the baton of Kurt Masur. I didn’t see the following review at the time, but Brian Hunt in The Torygraph bore out our assessment – he absolutely loved this concert:

LPO Shostakovich Hunt TelegraphLPO Shostakovich Hunt Telegraph 25 Oct 1997, Sat The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

A belated thank you to the kind donor of our brace of tickets, who I think went globetrotting or something of that kind instead. Look what you missed.

Theatre Stories by Ken Campbell, Cottesloe Theatre, Followed By Dinner At Vong, 18 October 1997

I have long been partial to a bit of Ken Campbell. This one man show comprised “more than a bit” of him, I suppose.

Superb fun.

…was my verdict. I think I got more out of it than Daisy did, but she still liked it a lot.

Patrick Marmion liked it in the Standard.

Theatre Stories Marmion StandardTheatre Stories Marmion Standard 20 Oct 1997, Mon Evening Standard (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Paul Taylor in the Independent was very taken with it.

Campbell Taylor IndyCampbell Taylor Indy 20 Oct 1997, Mon The Independent (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Dinner At Vong

Janie’s thing at that time was for us to go to a posh place for after theatre dinner. This time, we went to Vong at The Berkeley Hotel.

Andrew Lloyd Weber wrote up the place for the Telegraph a few month’s earlier:

Vong Lloyd Weber TelegraphVong Lloyd Weber Telegraph 28 Jun 1997, Sat The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Matthew Fort in The Guardian described the place as too chic and achingly glossy in 1996 when it first opened.

Vong Fort GuardianVong Fort Guardian 24 Feb 1996, Sat The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

I remember finding the food very interesting and the price less scary than Nobu.