“I’m The Only J In Mauritius”, Recreating My Interview With Isia Birger, Port Louis, 10 August 1979

I explained the context of my “Jew hunt” in Mauritius in my piece relating to the previous day – click here or below.

Unfortunately, my notes from the interview I conducted on 10 August and my copy of the piece I published in the BBYO National magazine about it seem to be lost for all time, as a result of my mum throwing out rather a lot of my juvenilia without asking my permission. I am still cross about it.

However, as the strangest quirk of fortune would have it, my friend John Random, on seeing my “Jew Hunt In Port Louis” piece, was reminded of a book he once saw at a Mauritian community fair, The Mauritian Shekel. I explain the “aha” moments in this piece, from August 2019.

Now that I have read that book and been able to do some further digging on-line, I am in a position to recreate to some extent the extraordinary interview I had with Isia (aka Isaac) Birger in Port Louis on 10 August 1979.

I recall going to a sizeable office building and being shown into a large office within. In those days, I was unaccustomed to “big businessmen” and the super-sized rooms, desks and chairs that affirmed their status as such.

Mr Birger was very welcoming and interested in my mission, once I explained that I was a newly-appointed editor of a Jewish youth magazine keen to find an interesting angle on my travels.

He then told me the extraordinary story that was subsequently (decades later, at the very end of the 20th century) written up in the book The Mauritian Shekel.

In short, Mr Birger was, at the start of the second world war, probably the only Jew in Mauritius. In 1940, many Jews were trying to flee Nazi-occupied Europe. One group of 1600 refugees, who managed to escape by boat to Mandatory Palestine, were, uniquely, deported from there as illegal immigrants and taken to Mauritius for detention throughout the war. Beau Bassin prison was converted into a refugee camp/detention centre. This unique Jewish community resided there for the rest of the war, after which most went to Mandatory Palestine and some returned to Europe.

Mr Birger, in his capacity as the only known Jewish resident on Mauritius at that time, acted as an intermediary for this involuntary community. He told me several of the fascinating stories covered in the book.

There is also a reference to Isia Berger in another book, “The Travelling Rabbi” – click here.

It transpires that, even more latterly than the 1999/2000 book, in 2007, a South African film maker, Kevin Harris (no relation), made a film about the story, see below:

Meanwhile, back in 1979, this story was an absolute coup for me. It made a most unusual piece in the BBYO national magazine and the story also became a centrepiece of a programme I took to many groups around the country in my capacity as a visiting speaker from the National Executive.

I wish I still had my original notes and I’d love to uncover a copy of the article I wrote up at the time – someone might still have a copy of that magazine gathering dust in their attic, so the article might yet emerge.

Still, the process of re-finding the story and pulling the evidence together from limited sources has been a fascinating and stimulating one.

A Jew Hunt In Port Louis, Mauritius, 9 August 1979

An overview of my 1979 trip to Mauritius, courtesy of the wonderfully hospitable Biltoo family, can be found by clicking here or below:

Here is an extract from my tenth letter, which is in effect my diary entry for 9 August 1979:

Today (Anil’s birthday) we were supposed to walk up one of the Mauritian mountains with Shahil, but we didn’t go of course (Anil being ill).

This afternoon I went on a Jew hunt alone to Port Louis but was unsuccessful. The name and address I’ve been given is of (I found out today) a very important man, so I’m returning there tomorrow (as he was out today). I have my doubts as to whether he’ll want to see me. If he has rejected Judaism (which seems possible) he won’t be at all interested in helping me. He may be a very helpful person, however.

I had better explain at this juncture why on earth I went Jew hunting in Port Louis. A few days before I set off for Mauritius, I had been co-opted onto the BBYO National Executive as the National Magazine Editor, so I was very keen to come up with at least one story with a Jewish angle while I was on my travels. This sole lead (did I pick it up from the Delaître family? – seems likely) actually proved extremely fruitful in the end, but my mother threw out my magazine copies and I have a dreadful feeling I stored my hand-written notes with my copy of the final printed magazine. If so, I am probably, to use the vernacular, in shtuk – that fascinating interview might be lost in the mists of time.

This evening we went to Marraz’s for dinner and although he says otherwise I think Anil’s condition is worsening. It was at Marraz’s I got your letter. What a coincidence meeting Arriss’s friend!!

You haven’t much to tell me about life in Streatham, life in Ilford, Woodford, Pinner and [somewhere else] is also still the same. I’m getting lots of letters. It’s good because from tonight onwards it won’t be worth writing, so it’s no more writing, just reading (which you know I prefer!!!). As for discussions on Judaism, it isn’t (I don’t think) quite as you gathered. On hearing that I’m Jewish most people want to know what it is.

Talking about religion, I forgot to mention that yesterday was Rakhi. I was daubed with flour, sprinkled with flowers, and given wrist bands to wear!! (The bad part oif the ceremony is having to give money to the givers!!).

This is your last letter, so make the most of it, and from now on I will keep my diary on notepaper for you to read (I suppose) tomorrow or the next day (from the time you read this).

See you very soon, love Ian

Me and Nanda, Shahil’s sister. The “me” bit of this picture became Ged Ladd’s avatar.

Second Letter From Mauritius, 17 July 1979

A very brief background to this travel adventure is covered in the overview posting linked here, which contains links to photos and cine.

I wrote letters to mum and dad which doubled as my diary/travelogue. Here is a scan and then transcription of the second of them, which relates to 17 July 1979.

Mauritius Journal Letter Two Side One 17 July 1979Mauritius Journal Letter Two Side Two 17 July 1979

Dear folks,

As you may have realised from the drift at the end of letter one, I had the inspiration to save writing time. You want to know what I’m doing all the time and I want to keep a diary. Thus I am sending you my diary as I go along which is why I wanted to keep the letters for me when I come back. Please send me news from home about once a week or fortnight or I will feel forgotten.

This morning we first went to Lynford Smith’s house (the priest from England) who drove us to Rose Hill to Garçon’s house…

In July 2019, writing up these pieces around the 40th anniversary of my visit, I managed to trace Lynford Smith to St Barnabas Church, an Anglican community in Vancouver – click here.

If anything changes at St Barnabas, here is a link to a scrape of that page taken in July 2019.

from where we went to Port Louis for the day .

There we had a workers lunch in the market, a full lunch for a big 10p (a little less). We then visited Jan Sooknah a cousin of Bill’s. who immediately insisted we go to his house for tea and was very pleased to see us. He is a lawyer. All lawyers here are very rich. He lives in the district which is the Mauritian equivalent of Beverly Hills or Hampstead Garden Suburb!!!

They want us to stay there for a while: we may do later. Then we came home for supper where we had octopus; the food is superb!!

We went for a walk after supper and befriended the sons of the owner of the café (very convenient) and some of their friends. Marraz Biltoo is very popular around here and knowing him means instant acceptance and friendship.

Sugar cane grows like grass in Mauritius, you just tear it off the trees. It has the fascinating property that the fibres (if you carry on chewing rather than spit them out) clean your teeth and are good for the gums.

Good gums with all that sugar cane, Anil?

We are having the time of our lives here, the weather is good And improving. It is so different from England you wouldn’t believe it.

I won’t write a whole letter every day; soon the news will become less no doubt, so I will dig sections of letters, but I will be writing each day, you could say.

Anyway all the best, have fun, lots of love Ian