An overview of my 1979 trip to Mauritius, courtesy of the wonderfully hospitable Biltoo family, can be found by clicking here or below:
Here is an extract from my “Remaining Journal”, which is in effect my diary entry for 17 August 1979 – my last diary entry written during the Mauritius trip.
Friday 17th of August 1979 –
Having stayed at Marraz’s, we went on a grand family picnic at Palmar (and Belle Mare). Had a terrific time there and in the evening we ended up with a sort of improvised party with Janee’s nephews, nieces and cousins. We stayed at Garçon’s last night, with a mind to finishing our shopping in Curepipe with the help the chauffeur.
Even now, with dozens of hotels along that coast, both Palmarand Belle Mare still have public beaches, where lovely people such as the Biltoos and their extended families might well still party, as we did.
This looks like Manjula’s belated birthday party. Whether this is the same as the “impromptu evening party” at the end of our trip or not I cannot be 100% sure, but based on other diary entries mentioning its postponement several times, I think it might well beManjula looks as though she has been at her daddy’s bottle of rum, but perhaps she was just tired out from all the excitement of the day.
Elements of the beach party – playing ball games, dancing, eating and generally having a good time – are charmingly recorded on cine film – to be seen towards the end of this video – c8:30 to c11:15
These gatherings/parties at the end of our stay were a highlight among many highlights for me – the culmination of unforgettable and life-forming experiences over five weeks in Mauritius.
I kept detailed notes of my 1979 trip to Mauritius, but unfortunately, my notes for 10 and 11 August are lost to all time. My mother decided to throw away a heap of my juvenilia memorabilia, which inadvertently included some of my Mauritius diary pages, as I wrote up my 10 August notes…
…for the BBYO National magazine on my return. I stored those diary pages with my article notes rather than my diaries.
Anyway, by a process of elimination and a trawl through the photographs, I have concluded that the following day, 11 August 1979, must have been the postponed birthday party for Manjula Biltoo, the older of Garçon and Janee’s children. Perhaps her 5th birthday? The party was held at Garçon and Janee’s lovely Rose Hill villa – coincidentally fewer than two miles, no more than 30 minutes walk, from the Beau Bassin site where the extraordinary “Mauritian Shekel” story described in the link above had unfolded in the 1940s.
…as well as enjoying their Rose Hill home as our base for much of our other time in Mauritius.
As there is no reference to Manjula’s birthday party anywhere else in the diary…but there is a clear batch of photos from towards the end of my stay (but not right at the end), I’m pretty sure that 11 August must have been the day of that party…
…thus I have pulled together a photo wall from that party.
I have had a go at labelling up the names, but am hoping for some help from the Biltoo community (e.g. Vanisha, Manjula’s younger sister) in filling gaps and improving spellings.
Manjula with Anil BiltooManjula, Garçon, Vanisha and Anil Biltoo with assembled familyBhavesh Biltoo (Marraz &Anandani’s son)Janee, Vanisha, Manjula and Garçon Biltoo front row. Cousins (I think from Janee’s family) back row.On the left I think Mim Gooly?Baby Gooly?, Shahil Soniassy, Mim Gooly?, Anil Biltoo & Nanda SoniassyAnil G9ooly with Nanda SoniassyMe with Nanda Soniassy. The image of my head from this photo became the “Ged Ladd” avatar several decades later.
I have used several of these pictures to illustrate other write-ups from other days, but I can tell from the photo numbering that those above are from that super party.
I can also report from memory, although not from diary notes, that the party was a very jolly affair, with much of the extended family present and a good time had by children, young adults and more senior folk alike.
An overview of my 1979 trip to Mauritius, courtesy of the wonderfully hospitable Biltoo family, can be found by clicking here or below:
Here is an extract from my tenth letter, which is in effect my diary entry for 7 August 1979:
As you may tell from the date my diary is a little behind again, and it was only the receiving of two letters from you today that reminded me. I think that the last time I wrote was the morning of the seventh or the evening of the six it doesn’t really matter.
You are my greatest fan; three letters and not one complaint about my handwriting. It is atrocious I admit.
Anyway the morning of the seventh Anil and I went shopping in Rose Hill about thrice, in short bursts. Anil (as usual) has almost completely finished ploughing through his money, and his only hope is that he wins at the races on Sunday!! Last Sunday, Garçon, who is in the know, made a few hundred pounds, so Anil’s got the bug! If it’s one of Garçon’s bad weeks, he’s [Anil’s] had it!!!
In the afternoon we went to Shahil’s for tea and dinner, and then a snap decision to stay the night, which was good fun, but a late night.
Shahil Trying To Look CoolAnil, Shahil & Me. Not a great photograph. I have just spotted the two-finger signal from Shahil above Anil’s head, 40 years later.Dutt (Bill), Anil, Shahil, Nanda, Shahil & Nanda’s parents and their two younger siblings(I think I’m calling all of this but corrections welcomed): Left to Right: Baby, Shahil, Min, Anil, Nanda
Anil decided to have one of his respiratory attacks (not quite asthma but nearly) that (of course, seeing as he was separated from his tablets) meant he spent the whole night wheezing. He is still ill, I’m afraid to say and was very irritable today, as he was confined to barracks on his birthday, but that’s another story..
An overview of my 1979 trip to Mauritius, courtesy of the wonderfully hospitable Biltoo family, can be found by clicking here or below:
Here is an extract from my ninth letter, which is in effect my diary entry for 5 August 1979:
This morning we got ready to leave, which we will do straight after lunch. I won’t be too sad to leave, as although it has made a real break there has not been all that much to do here and I look forward to getting back to bustling, jolly town life.
7 August 1979:
Well straight after lunch that day we did leave and got back about 3 o’clock to find the house seeming stale. It was almost like returning home but in a strange sort of way.
Welcome home
Garçon went over to Marraz’s – Marraz was supposed to come to dinner. He didn’t come. But Garçon brought some letters for me including yours and Gillian’s (which was like both sides of the same story from different angles). I get the impression that Gillian and friend must have wandered off, because Rebecca is very reliable as far as that sort of thing is concerned.
I knew that you hadn’t heard from me as early as the 25th, as Mrs B told Mr B you’ve got your first on 26. It does take as long as 10 days sometimes, and sometimes only 5 or 6. You also tend to get letters in bulk, so I’m told.
Anyway, we had dinner with Janee’s brother that night and turned in early.
Here is an extract from my seventh letter, which is in effect my diary entry for 30 July 1979:
Yesterday, we moved south. It took two journeys to get everything down and I was in shift two, thus I didn’t get there until lunchtime. I had time, thus, for a quick wander around Rose Hill.
The summer bungalow is really beautiful down here, and the rocks are great for exploring. The sea is too strong to swim in, though, so we have to go about half to 3/4 of a mile for safe beach.
We spent the afternoon and evening playing carrom and dominoes and exploring rocks.
Here is an extract from my seventh letter, which is in effect my diary entry for 29 July 1979:
Anyway, on Sunday, although we were going to go fishing, it was decided that we were too tired, so we had a lazy day and will go fishing at a later date.
In the morning we did an awful lot of nothing at all. Just before lunch another of Anil’s cousins Shahil came to lunch and for the afternoon. He is from the side of the family that we don’t talk about, but he is accepted cause he’s nice. He is 17, which makes him good company for us. In the afternoon he took Anil and me out around Rose Hill, and then to a garden fete. In the evening we all danced Sega (Shahil brought some [records, presumably] with him) and thus we spent the evening until bedtime.
Here is an extract from my sixth letter, which is in effect my diary entry for 25 July 1979:
Today was even more interesting [than 24 July]. We went north today, but Garçon couldn’t come so we took the chauffeur. We went to see the largest sugar factory in the world; Flacq Union – and saw the town of Flacq…
Anil with sugar cane…but probably taken before the day we went to Flacq
I think that massive old sugar factory in Flacq must have closed down by now. Possibly just as well; it didn’t look very “health and safety” as I recall it. But fear not, Alteo, for example, still refines plenty of sugar in Mauritius 40 years later.
I’m pretty sure Marraz was with us that day and I’m pretty sure it was him who made some very gut-wrenching remarks about the only possible method for a sugar factory worker to take a piss if he got caught short while up on that enormous factory rigging. “why do you think demerara sugar looks the way it does?”, said Marraz. I’ve never been able to look at demerara again without thinking of that factory and that remark.
…and went to Belmar Plage [sic] where we bathed and had picnic lunch. Then we went to Pamplemousses Gardens (THE BOTANICAL GARDENS) for a brief visit to “sus the place out”. We intend to spend a full-half day or whole day there photographing and observing. We returned [to Rose Hill], prepared for dinner and then went to Roy’s for dinner. (Roy is Jan Sooknah’s wife’s brother – GET IT???) where we had a very pleasant evening.
Anil bathing, possibly Belle Mare. Not labelled.
“Belmar Plage” must refer to Belle Mare Plage, which is now (40 years later) a fancy-shmancy resort, like so much of Mauritius now. It was just a nice beach back then.
Another topic from the Overcrowded Barracoon came up that day, which affected me deeply and triggered an element of political alertness in me that remains to this day.
As we drove around the coast along the Flacq peninsula, we drove near Le Saint Géran.
“See that hotel over there”, said Marraz to me.
“That hotel is run by a South African Company on an apartheid basis. You could walk through the front door and be served. We could only enter through the back door and could only serve people like you.”
“But that’s outrageous”, I said.
“That’s what apartheid is”, said Marraz, “and our lousy government is letting the South African’s treat our country as an offshoot of their corrupt South African regime.”
That conversation really brought home to me what apartheid was. Before then, I’d never really given it a great deal of thought before. It hadn’t really touched my life, I suppose. The little I knew of it, I realised it was bad. Also that it was stopping a darned good cricket team from playing international cricket. But on my return from Mauritius, I found myself quite avidly anti-apartheid. I switched away from Barclays Bank as soon as I was able and abstained from South African fruit and wine until apartheid was over.
Here is an extract from my fifth letter, which is in effect my diary entry for 23 July 1979:
Well here’s what happened yesterday. We completed the move to Garçon‘s house in the morning, had lunch at Garçon’s (after a little shopping in Rose Hill where Anil bought a Chinese trinket box). Then we went in the afternoon for a drive around some of the sites of Rose Hill. We went to Balfour Garden, where there is a beautiful view of waterfalls and they have giant tortoises.
Unlabelled – guessing Balfour Garden
We also went to the Divine Life Society building (a place for weirdos I think).
We then drove to Marraz’s to collect the last of the stuff and then drove to Narrain’s, where we stayed, went for a walk, and had dinner. We then went home and I went to bed quite early and slept well. Today we are seeing some more interesting sites, so tune in to tomorrow’s exciting episode of: – Anyway, see you soon, lots of love, hope all is well Ian H (PS all mail still goes to the same place)
I wrote letters to mum and dad which doubled as my diary/travelogue. Here is a scan and then transcription of the second of them, which relates to 17 July 1979.
Dear folks,
As you may have realised from the drift at the end of letter one, I had the inspiration to save writing time. You want to know what I’m doing all the time and I want to keep a diary. Thus I am sending you my diary as I go along which is why I wanted to keep the letters for me when I come back. Please send me news from home about once a week or fortnight or I will feel forgotten.
This morning we first went to Lynford Smith’s house (the priest from England) who drove us to Rose Hill to Garçon’s house…
There we had a workers lunch in the market, a full lunch for a big 10p (a little less). We then visited Jan Sooknah a cousin of Bill’s. who immediately insisted we go to his house for tea and was very pleased to see us. He is a lawyer. All lawyers here are very rich. He lives in the district which is the Mauritian equivalent of Beverly Hills or Hampstead Garden Suburb!!!
They want us to stay there for a while: we may do later. Then we came home for supper where we had octopus; the food is superb!!
We went for a walk after supper and befriended the sons of the owner of the café (very convenient) and some of their friends. Marraz Biltoo is very popular around here and knowing him means instant acceptance and friendship.
Sugar cane grows like grass in Mauritius, you just tear it off the trees. It has the fascinating property that the fibres (if you carry on chewing rather than spit them out) clean your teeth and are good for the gums.
Good gums with all that sugar cane, Anil?
We are having the time of our lives here, the weather is good And improving. It is so different from England you wouldn’t believe it.
I won’t write a whole letter every day; soon the news will become less no doubt, so I will dig sections of letters, but I will be writing each day, you could say.
I wrote letters to mum and dad which doubled as my diary/travelogue. Here is a scan followed by a transcript of the first of them, which relates to 16 July 1979.
For those who struggle to read my beautiful manuscript, here is a dictated transcription:
Dear Ma and pa,
Well here I am, in Mauritius. It’s 7:15 AM and the sun will soon be making its presence felt. We are right at the tail end of the wintry weather (that means cold nights), but wrapped up in a blanket I was quite warm enough, so the assurance that I won’t need the blanket for much longer is quite irrelevant. Mindyou, I’d have slept like a log through anything after getting about half an hours sleep on the plane.
The flight was most enjoyable. At Heathrow we met a Biltoo, Arriss, who travelled with us and being in aviation he knows the ropes. Bahrain, our first stop (at 1:45 GMT 3:45 Bahrain time) was smelly, with workers sleeping around on the airport floors etc.
Seychelles wouldn’t let us off, as it was raining when we stopped there, but the weather in Mauritius was lovely.
We arrived at 11:15 GMT, 2:15 Mauritius time and were met by Marraz (whose home I am in now) Garçon (with chauffeur to take all our bags) and Narrain (whose wife is one of Bill’s sisters). Of course they brought their families with them, (except Narrain as there was no room to 6 kids). First of all we drove to Garçon’s house.
The first thing that struck me on the journey was the extreme poverty. People living in rusty shacks etc. The second thing was the wonderful smell of the island, this mainly caused by sugar cane.
Garçon’s house at Rose Hill is like a mansion. We may stay there for a while. We quickly moved on to Narrain’s house – that was when we met Tiffin (Bill’s sister) and the six children. Then we went to Marraz’s house. Marraz has pull here, so the words Marraz Biltoo got us straight through customs etc. at the airport.
That evening we were visited by the Anglican priest from Catford [Lynford Smith] who I recognise and who recognises me. He says you can’t possibly see Mauritius unless you live with Mauritian people for some time, like I’m doing.
Anyway I’ll be in touch soon, lots of love Ian.
PS Please keep my letters as I’m too busy to write everything down for you and keep a diary
I refer to Anil’s dad as “Bill” in these letters, but I remember him as Dat (or Dutt) and I am pretty sure everyone in Mauritius called him Dat. Perhaps Bill was his nickname or simplified name in England.
This photo, taken later in the holiday, shows the people named in that first letter and some more. Left to right: Anil, Marraz, Anandani (in front of Marraz), Dat (Bill), Narrain (sitting in front of Dat), Garçon, Janee, Tiffin.
