China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), 4 April to 27 April 2010, placeholder and links

We were very keen to see a rural and scenic part of China; Yunnan seemed to fit the bill. We’d see interesting places.

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We’d meet interesting people.

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There would be opportunities to do some wonderful walks.

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We could stay in high quality hotels; unlike our fascinating but hardy experience in Tibet eight years earlier. Steppes East put together an excellent itinerary for us – here it is available for download: Harris – Final itin dep 4 Apr 2010.

We took some great pictures, divided into three albums:

One good story is already up and available – an unexpected cricket match between Tibet and England, with me representing England.  The match was also reported in excruciating detail on King Cricket, a few weeks after the event.

As usual, there are loads of notes waiting to be written up properly. If you are desperate to see them and try to decipher them before I get there – feel free to download and have a go:

 

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), Zhongdian To Sanya Via Kunming, 18 April 2010

Rose reasonably early to complete packing.

Took breakfast and await a transfer. Said goodbye to Huang, then just about avoided scrum at Zhongdian Airport, said goodbye to Palchen and waited in tacky first class lounge.

Met by Simon in Kunming, with whom we went to the Bamboo Temple (amazing statues et cetera)…

…and then on for a Muslim restaurant meal with Yunnan duck, chicken hotpot with asendo[?] ginseng, greens and rice…which Simon thought to be inadequate!

Meanwhile Mrs Fixit was checking us in at the airport early and on the phone a few times.

Returned to airport, said goodbye to Simon and (after a 20-25 minute delay) flew to Sanya arriving about 15 minutes late.

Silent but efficient driver whisked us to the Banyan Tree where they only half expected us but never mind.

Bualeers [can I read my own writing?] in villa – no doubt we’ll change room tomorrow!

I only remember that villa seeming small but no doubt there were other things wrong with it. Janie can’t remember either.

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), More Trekking Around Ringha & Zhongdian, 17 April 2010

Rose a little later than usual having adjusted itinerary to lighten today.

Went 1st to the Tendol Gyalzur orphanage, where the kids put on a show for us and Sonny (Tendol’s son) explained about the orphanage to us.

Then into town for local beer//ginger honey tea at So Ya La (the orphanages restaurant) and on to Ringha village to start walk to tiny Dabaosi Temple with five wisdom Buddhas and only one small pupil on the whole site, seeking guidance from Palchen only on his multitude of gadgets. Very enlightening.

On through the increasing wind back to our hotel.

Relaxing afternoon and early evening reading, reviewing photos etc.

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), Walking Around Ringha, Zhongdian, 16 April 2010

Usual routine morning before setting off on foot at 9 am to walk from the hotel through village around hills to town

We were joined by Palchen’s pal Yunden. We played some impromptu cricket along the way…

I reported on the cricket in some depth separately and on King Cricket:

…and took several snack breaks with biscuits, bananas and chocolate. Some of the walking was easy, summer is quite hard, About five hours in all.

Yunden was purportedly there to “learn the ropes”, but I got the impression that Palchen was worried that we “old folk” might not be good for high hill walking and wanted some back up bulk for just in case. I suspect that my tipping money was plenty of compensation for Yunden who seemed very happy with his day.

Searched in vain for combination locks in New Town & debated changes to the itinerary for tomorrow.

Back to lovely base by 15:00.

Sat out for a while before I got cold.

Massage by “Su Wu” [I think that must be one of Daisy’s pseudonyms], then hot tub etc.

Dined in à la cart restaurant, enjoying duck salad, yak burger with coleslaw and some chips, lamb shank Mongolian style.

Crashed early after looking at pictures.

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

Tibet v England Impromptu Cricket Match in Yunnan Province, April 2010

In the high hills of Yunnan Province, in South-West China, on the lower reaches of the Tibetan plateau, you don’t expect much in the way of cricket experience, least of all playing the game, but when you travel, stuff happens.

I reported this extraordinary event on the King Cricket website, where I write occasional pieces under my nom de plume, Ged Ladd.   Janie and I have called each other Ged and Daisy since the mid 1990s.

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Click here to read the report.

Just in case anything ever happens to King Cricket, I have scraped the piece to Ogblog – only click the link below if the link above doesn’t work:

Tibet v England match report

Among my King Cricket pieces, this one comes second only to my impromptu live commentary experience in India, which can be found through this link.

But I digress.

If you would like to see photos from the few days we spent up in the high hills of Yunnan Province, including photos of this event, then click here.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), Around Zhongdian, 15 April 2010

Easy day with no touring a.m.

Rose a bit later than usual, relaxed, took a late breakfast, watched movies etc.

Set off at 1400 for Ganden Sumsanling Monastery – an underwhelming monastery in the style of the Potala Palace but with very few monks on show!

Then into Zhongdian/Shangri-La old town – Disney tourism village. Still, walked the lanes, saw the biggest prayer wheel in the world…

…and meandered to Kaibash Restaurant for yak momos, yak & barley, chicken curry, latka, kimchi and veg soup. Early dinner that was – then home for a restful evening after playing on the Internet! Watched some Latin American music history!

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), From Lijiang To Zhongdian, 14 April 2010

Rose quite early, read, finished packing etc.

Light breakfast, check out and off in direction of Tiger Leaping Gorge.

First stop the viewing point and pitstop Xieng Gu – then on to meeting point where we said goodbye to Kuan and hello to Palchen our Tibetan guide.

Then short ride to Tiger Leaping Gorge– very touristic walkway packed with people (S decide closed – perhaps to make it more touristic!)

It started pouring with rain but then the weather improved briefly when we got to the gorge. Still – briefly we saw the stunning gorge.

Then on to Ringha Banyan Tree which is simply lovely – we were upgraded to a spa suite from “suite” and treated like royalty.

Rain returned & turned to snow – freezing buggy ride to restaurant. Have a “Tibetan Hot Pot” – rather touristic implementation of a Yunnanese banquet style served by charming Jay, a Yi dressed as a Tibetan. But wonderful food for the first time in ages so no complaints there!

Ham and black chicken soup with medicinal herbs, prawns, scallops, fish balls, mixed veg, lotus root, chicken, pork, yak slices! The resulting final broths was amazing.

Freezing ride home in the snow!

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), Around Lijiang, 13 April 2010

Ged rose early again – read – then we both looked more photos before super breakfast.

Off after breakfast to Yuhu village to see Dr Rock’s house and some not especially friendly villagers but visited one house.

Then on to Yongfeng monastery with some not especially friendly monks. But the Naxi she dancing ladies were fun and we had a photo opportunity snog in front of the camelia tree.

Then a quick lunch stop (we just had beer) before off to Wenhai lake. Bickered over how much walking to do but got it right in the end (about 90 minutes) friendly village and visited our house.

Then home in gloom – rested, nibbled and watched a DVD – then as the weather improved played tennis.

Evening meal in Cantonese restaurant at Banyan tree – terrible meal – starter of “crispy” goose arrived circa one hour after ordering (soon after prompting), neither crispy nor fully defrosted! Main dishes of chicken sausage rice pot veg and pork ribs very ordinary. Beleaguered Dela was very sweet and attempted to mollify us and other diners!

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), Lijiang, 12 April 2010

This was one of the most photogenic days on this trip – we put more than 100 photos from this day in the album for this part of the trip. I shall pepper this piece with a fair smattering of them.

Years earlier, Janie and I had been transfixed by a documentary series, Beyond The Clouds, about this town, Lijiang. It was broadcast in 1994, soon after our return from our first trip to China. Much had changed in 16+ years of course, but the fascinating grapple between traditional and emerging China was much evident still in 2010.

Both rose early and looked at rest of photos.

Touring started with Zhong Yi vegetable market (and meat etc – everyday local market).

Then walk to the historic old town (including Disneyfied part) which was mostly delightful but [Disneyfied].

Then through part of new town (seeking a chain for Daisy) and on to black dragon pool park – walked all around there and on to museum of Naxi Dongba culture. Then home.

Played tennis in the afternoon (perhaps a bit too early) washed and soon off for early evening of dinner in local restaurant Jiu Qi…

…and then a concert of the Naxi Ancient Music Concert Hall (see ticket/program) were local tourists in front of us. Tried to match the 30+ piece Naxi orchestra’s decibel level.

Gave up on bar crawl idea – crashed early.

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.

China (Beijing, Yunnan and Sanya), From Shaxi To Lijiang, 11 April 2010

Early rise – Ged strolls town.

Take breakfast at charming inn [Laomedian Lodge], then go to visit Templeton small museum.

See grand old family house from outside but sadly no one is at home.

Return the car to find one and porter in a state – one has locked his keys inside the car.

Within 45 minutes several experts have helped and half the town has watched a series of dextrous manoeuvers with screwdrivers and wires – success!

2 1/2 hour drive to Lijiang – meet new guide Wang Kuan (Alvin) and say goodbye to Zuay.

Then to Banyan Tree Lijiang. Frustration with the suite meant we didn’t get to properly settled until four-ish.

Then played tennis, checked out restaurants and shops, showered, changed, dined (Japanese eel, pork belly, lamb shank) and checked out the net.

Daisy crashed early, while Ged read. Then both looked at photos for a while.

There is a placeholder and links piece for this trip, with links to all the photographs, the full itinerary and stuff – click here for that.