Rose a little later than usual having adjusted itinerary to lighten today.
Went 1st to the Tendol Gyalzur orphanage, where the kids put on a show for us and Sonny (Tendol’s son) explained about the orphanage to us.
Then into town for local beer//ginger honey tea at So Ya La (the orphanages restaurant) and on to Ringha village to start walk to tiny Dabaosi Temple with five wisdom Buddhas and only one small pupil on the whole site, seeking guidance from Palchen only on his multitude of gadgets. Very enlightening.
On through the increasing wind back to our hotel.
Relaxing afternoon and early evening reading, reviewing photos etc.
…and took several snack breaks with biscuits, bananas and chocolate. Some of the walking was easy, summer is quite hard, About five hours in all.
Yunden was purportedly there to “learn the ropes”, but I got the impression that Palchen was worried that we “old folk” might not be good for high hill walking and wanted some back up bulk for just in case. I suspect that my tipping money was plenty of compensation for Yunden who seemed very happy with his day.
Searched in vain for combination locks in New Town & debated changes to the itinerary for tomorrow.
Back to lovely base by 15:00.
Sat out for a while before I got cold.
Massage by “Su Wu” [I think that must be one of Daisy’s pseudonyms], then hot tub etc.
Dined in à la cart restaurant, enjoying duck salad, yak burger with coleslaw and some chips, lamb shank Mongolian style.
In the high hills of Yunnan Province, in South-West China, on the lower reaches of the Tibetan plateau, you don’t expect much in the way of cricket experience, least of all playing the game, but when you travel, stuff happens.
I reported this extraordinary event on the King Cricket website, where I write occasional pieces under my nom de plume, Ged Ladd. Janie and I have called each other Ged and Daisy since the mid 1990s.
Rose a bit later than usual, relaxed, took a late breakfast, watched movies etc.
Set off at 1400 for Ganden Sumsanling Monastery – an underwhelming monastery in the style of the Potala Palace but with very few monks on show!
Then into Zhongdian/Shangri-La old town – Disney tourism village. Still, walked the lanes, saw the biggest prayer wheel in the world…
…and meandered to Kaibash Restaurant for yak momos, yak & barley, chicken curry, latka, kimchi and veg soup. Early dinner that was – then home for a restful evening after playing on the Internet! Watched some Latin American music history!
Light breakfast, check out and off in direction of Tiger Leaping Gorge.
First stop the viewing point and pitstop Xieng Gu – then on to meeting point where we said goodbye to Kuan and hello to Palchen our Tibetan guide.
Then short ride to Tiger Leaping Gorge– very touristic walkway packed with people (S decide closed – perhaps to make it more touristic!)
It started pouring with rain but then the weather improved briefly when we got to the gorge. Still – briefly we saw the stunning gorge.
Then on to Ringha Banyan Tree which is simply lovely – we were upgraded to a spa suite from “suite” and treated like royalty.
Rain returned & turned to snow – freezing buggy ride to restaurant. Have a “Tibetan Hot Pot” – rather touristic implementation of a Yunnanese banquet style served by charming Jay, a Yi dressed as a Tibetan. But wonderful food for the first time in ages so no complaints there!
Ham and black chicken soup with medicinal herbs, prawns, scallops, fish balls, mixed veg, lotus root, chicken, pork, yak slices! The resulting final broths was amazing.
Ged rose early again – read – then we both looked more photos before super breakfast.
Off after breakfast to Yuhu village to see Dr Rock’s house and some not especially friendly villagers but visited one house.
Then on to Yongfeng monastery with some not especially friendly monks. But the Naxi she dancing ladies were fun and we had a photo opportunity snog in front of the camelia tree.
Then a quick lunch stop (we just had beer) before off to Wenhai lake. Bickered over how much walking to do but got it right in the end (about 90 minutes) friendly village and visited our house.
Then home in gloom – rested, nibbled and watched a DVD – then as the weather improved played tennis.
Evening meal in Cantonese restaurant at Banyan tree – terrible meal – starter of “crispy” goose arrived circa one hour after ordering (soon after prompting), neither crispy nor fully defrosted! Main dishes of chicken sausage rice pot veg and pork ribs very ordinary. Beleaguered Dela was very sweet and attempted to mollify us and other diners!
Years earlier, Janie and I had been transfixed by a documentary series, Beyond The Clouds, about this town, Lijiang. It was broadcast in 1994, soon after our return from our first trip to China. Much had changed in 16+ years of course, but the fascinating grapple between traditional and emerging China was much evident still in 2010.
Both rose early and looked at rest of photos.
Touring started with Zhong Yi vegetable market (and meat etc – everyday local market).
Then walk to the historic old town (including Disneyfied part) which was mostly delightful but [Disneyfied].
Then through part of new town (seeking a chain for Daisy) and on to black dragon pool park – walked all around there and on to museum of Naxi Dongba culture. Then home.
Played tennis in the afternoon (perhaps a bit too early) washed and soon off for early evening of dinner in local restaurant Jiu Qi…
…and then a concert of the Naxi Ancient Music Concert Hall (see ticket/program) were local tourists in front of us. Tried to match the 30+ piece Naxi orchestra’s decibel level.
Again quite early start including check out (8:30).
South to Weishan – brand new road means this is only just over an hour from Dali.
Lovely well preserved old market town (really just the main strip preserved) – rarely visited by tourists, although the new road might well change all that. We were more watched than watching!
Back to Dali for light lunch at Kaiyi’s Kitchen (still great veg, sticky chicken and sweet) then on north to Shaxi – long drive.
Daisy took snaps of Sha Ping from a distance and zillions of snaps along the way. Ged slept mostly.
Time for an early evening stroll around this charming little town. We are staying in a guesthouse which is one of the old wooden courtyard houses on the main square – charming.
We shower and take a simple meal with pumpkin soup and Taiwan/Fujian style noodles and veg and local wine.
Again aimed for early start (Ged is not feeling too terrific)
Light breakfast.
Went to Xizhou, a small Bai market town (everyday market). Bought some hemp seeds and took loads of photos there in market.
Also walked through town – visited a couple of old houses (now small apartment complexes).
Then on to Zhouchen village, an even smaller town with every day markets, two banyan trees and a stage. Bought tub for seeds.
Then onto three pagodas – lovely gardens and close look at pagodas – then onto marble factory (shop) for several gift is. Then home.
Brief pitstop then into town for a beer, soup (chicken and mushroom/ham and veg), internet access to tell folks we’re phoneless!
Draw dosh and look at some more shirts and wallets (bought chopsticks and last night’s shirts). Then to Sweet Tooth for coffee and cookies served by deaf but efficient staff.
Back for some R&R and went through copious photos from today before packing a bit, going to Café de Jack where the staff weren’t deaf but sure were dumb! Still charming and sweet.
Ate veg, lasagna, local beer (me), wine (Daisy) and strolled to supermarket before returning home.
