From Huntingdon House, Thyolo, To Zomba, 4 October 2013

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We rise early, pack, take an early coffee in the room and then breakfast on the terrace.

Daisy returns to the room to finish packing just as Christopher [driver] arrives.

It becomes apparent very quickly that Christopher is expecting to collect us and the Taylors. Daisy will be pleased, as am I and indeed (presumably) are the Taylors.

I go and tell Daisy, who stomps off to sort the matter out. I can see, of course, it is pretty much unsortable. Christopher suggested doing two trips. But that would mean one couple loses half a day at least.

He suggests an extra alternative car, but that would be at least four hours also.

There was nothing else for it, we all had to squash into a single vehicle clearly designed for the comfort of two not four with baggage.

Daisy ended up curled up like a fetus amongst the baggage, while the Taylors took the prime seats and I sat up front with Christopher.

Under the circumstances (curled up in the foetal position) Daisy took some excellent pictures

We all got to know each other bit better, which was splendid. The Taylors had their own arrangements at the other end, whereas we were expecting to take to the town, so we agreed that Christopher would drop us at Ke Chawe, wait for me and Daisy and then take us touring.

Despite the traffic jam at one detour village…

…we reached town at circa 12:15.

Daisy and I were shown a shabby room, clearly not deluxe, but it seemed that all rooms had been regraded since we booked so there is no such thing as a standard room any more!

I asked upgrade to the best available, which I was informed was executive deluxe $20 extra. I explained that it was not about money and we moved.

Tipping at this place seems to invite slightly better service.

So we were off touring. We went to the market first. Looked around. People can be quite surly and many don’t want photos. Although many are friendly and most can be won round at least to chat, if not for photos.

Pop-top chequers

I played bawo for while in the market and lost. Despite seemingly good advice.

Daisy wanted to see chitense cloth, but didn’t get much further than Christopher’s friend’s stall.

Then on to the colonial buildings, after short stop for Christopher to arrange some money and buy some petrol.

At the first, now a municipal and/or embassy building, it was hard to tell which, Christopher failed to get some information for us but we were happy just to walk around.

Daisy saw an interesting looking estate behind the gate, from which a security man came and we thought we might be in trouble. But Daisy persuaded him that she was keen on gardens, so he opened up and became our guide.

Turned out she had seen an extension to Annie’s Lodge being built, in the shadow of the Hotel Masongola, perhaps the grandest of the colonial buildings.

Satiated, we returned home, thanked Christopher, returned to bath and change…

…except the bath water is brown, so we thought perhaps shower…

…but 30 seconds of shower flooded the room.

So we ended up switching rooms again (a longer process once you have unpacked, but mercifully only towed two doors down).

Then showering – the bathwater was still brown – then down to dinner for an insipid flower thickened mushroom soup followed by a tough old boiler hen in a tasty tomato/onion gravy and okay deserts.

Hurray for a tasty Paarl Riesling, boo to the cold in the dining room which made Daisy in particular thoroughly miserable.

She went straight to bed with her clothes on. Even I used my “kaftan shirt” as a nightie!

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