Touring Around The Zomba Plateau & Relaxing At Ku Chawe, 5 October 2013

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If you prefer to read the typed up journals illustrated with pictures, these are going up during November 2020

Rose quite early, took cafetiere coffee and a better breakfast than last night’s dinner had suggested – quite a vast spread.

Mike had been allocated to us for today by Wilderness Safari.

Before going touring yesterday, I had called Tanya in London to complain about the lousy transfer [arse-to-tit with the Taylor couple, not as specified]. When we returned from touring, a Wilderness Safari lady phoned to “apologise” and offer our upgrade (what upgrade?) and touring for today gratis. Daisy and I agreed that we should limit the tour to 5 hours or so and Mike was happy with that.

So off we went to the Williams Falls. Just before we were due to stop, Daisy befriended some kids carrying wood bundles on their heads. Daisy tried it for herself with some awkwardness but success.

Then on to Williams Falls themselves – Ged hears the call of the “greater spotted Heather Taylor” as we retreat from the bush.

Then on to Chagwa dam, natural reservoir, where we stop the car and hike to Queen’s View and Emperor’s View. At the former, we buy a stone piece made of black tourmaline and white ferro spa from Malosa Mountain.

At the latter, we spot the Taylors again – what is it with these people?

[Actually, you’ll be relived to learn that this was the last we saw of The Taylor Couple, aka the rude “Audley Couple” when we arrived, who seemed to keep bouncing back to us, possibly because, we suspect, they booked an adapted version of the tour we nearly booked through Audley. We chose Ultimate in the end because they found us Hueglin’s Lodge, which solved a difficult travel issue in getting to Kaya Mawa, but those stories are for another day]

Then a long drive to Chingwe’s hole, plus the craic nearby, where the merchants failed to persuade us to buy, but we gave them our sandwiches.

Then another fairly long and bumpy ride home.

Afternoon on lovely hotel terrace with comedy act revolving around us ordering a beer, two glasses and a plate of macadamia nuts, with a small cast of characters trying to meet the order and get us to sign for it…

…or not as the case seemingly turned out. As no bill for the nuts came.

After relaxing on the terrace, we relaxed some more on our own balcony, now sunny.

Daisy started the job of repacking; between us it was done quite quickly.

Some comedy plumbing, as Daisy showed me how she was solving the trickling/non-flushing loo problem…

…by pumping the bath outflow with the bath plug thingy. The resulting trickle of water from under the bath (coincidently with the toilet resuming service) told us it was soon time to leave and we plotted several toilet use strategies.

Shower? Toilet? Bath? Whatever!

Then shower and dinner.

A much better looking a-la-carte tonight and no intrusive buffet. Our fireside table was indeed reserved for us which made Daisy happy.

The mushroom soup experience of last night did not deter Daisy from the carrot soup (poor choice – a floury concoction as devoid of carrot as its predecessor had been devoid of mushroom), nor did it deter me from spicy mushrooms on toast – much better choice – last night’s soup mushrooms must have been held back for this tasty treat.

Then fish – the waiter suggested we try two types – the Kampango (fillet which Daisy tried with chips) and the Chambo (whole fish, bit like a freshwater bream, which I tried with rice). Mine was tastier but very very bony. Same vegetable melee as yesterday. Raspberry tart more like a stuffed scone.

I like to chambo, she likes kampango, we like less endangered species…NOW they tell us.

The food and beverage manager chatted us up at dinner, raising the macadamia incident. Daisy (perhaps foolishly) mentioned that we hadn’t been charged for them.

“That’s right, but you will be, when you sign for your wine”, he said. The wine was a jolly Saffer Chardonnay by the way.

When the bill came, still no nuts! I signed, tipped heartily again and we left. Mr Foodandbeverage was at the restaurant reception as we left.

“Did you enjoy your meal?”

“Yes, yes…”

“Did they get you to pay for your nuts?”

“Not yet”.

“Ah, wait here…”

…he says…and produces a bill for $10 – about the price of a sirloin steak.

We have a lively debate about the sense or otherwise in charging monstrous amounts for small things and he decides in the end to waive the charge…

…despite my insistence that we should pay something, just a reasonable sum.

We went to bed feeling bemused, amused and probably several other things ending in “used”.

Your nuts sir…I said, you’re nuts, sir!

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