Journey To Lebanon, Syria, Jordan & Eilat (Israel), Day One: Beit Ed-Dine, Sidon & Beirut Touring, 3 March 1997

A placeholder & links covering the whole journey can be found through the link here and below:

Monday 3 March 1997 – Set off early to Beit ed-Dine in the Chouf mountains. [see headline photo and photo below.

Then back through Deir Al-Ahmar

Deir El-Ahmar

and on to Sidon, by which time sun had turned to rain. Ruined castle– old souk – patisserie.

Then back to Beirut for tour of green line development – shopping and then rest before dinner with Elias Habre at Al Mijana (beautiful old villa in Ashrafieh (East Side).

Beirut Corniche
Dinner with Elias Habre

Janie had treated the Habre family in London for many years…decades even. Elias Habre was in Beirut at the time and insisted on providing hospitality to us that evening.

Al Majana still seems to be well regarded in 2022 if this review is anything to go by.

All of the Lebanon photos in our album can be seen here and below:

01 3 March 1997 - Beit Ed Dine Interior Courtyard LSJ_1997_G1 (3)

Journey To Lebanon, Syria, Jordan & Eilat (Israel), Day Zero: Getting There, 2 March 1997

A placeholder & links covering the whole journey can be found through the link here and below:

Sunday 2 March 1997 – Flew out of Heathrow p.m. – only 30 minutes late.

Got held up at the airport ever so slightly by immigration.

Got to Hotel Bristol late – dined at Kabab-Ji on Hamra Street near hotel.

Held Up At Immigration

Yes, “held up ever so slightly by immigration” is code for a rather peculiar incident, perhaps based on my physiognomy.

Of course our papers were entirely in order and Janie was waved through when we got to immigration at Beirut airport. In my case, however, a military-looking fellow stepped forward and swiped my passport from the immigration official’s hand for “routine checking”.

Janie got a little aggravated when she realised that she’d got through and I hadn’t but was told simply to stand at a distance and wait.

The immigration official engaged me in conversation, which I imagine was part of the “checking” process.

“First time in our country?”

“No”, I said, “I visited your country as a child, with my parents, many years ago.”

“Where did you visit?”

“We went to Beirut and Baalbek”, I said authoritatively.

“That’s not very much visiting”, he said.

“No”, I replied, “we were on a Mediterranean cruise, so only stayed here for one day, unfortunately”.

“Ah”, he said, “if you were on a Mediterranean cruise as a child you must also have visited ISRAEL”. That last word was hurled at me in an expletive manner.

I realised that our whole trip might be over. Were the officials to search our travel papers, they would see unequivocally that we were going on to Israel at the end of our trip. Beirut International Airport (Air Side) might be the sole and entire extent of our holiday.

Three Weeks Of Bliss? Many Stay Longer!

I smiled at the immigration official.

The immigration official smiled back.

I put on my thoughtful face, to show that I was trying to dredge the memories…or the right words. Then I said:

“Well, to be perfectly honest with you, I was 10 years old when my parents took me on that cruise. So I don’t remember all the places we visited back in 1973. But I clearly remember visiting Lebanon and I clearly remember liking it very much and wanting to come back to see more, so here I am!”

The official smiled and laughed. His laugh suggested the thought, “I know that you know that you went to Israel on that cruise”.

I smiled and laughed back, which probably implied, “I know that you know that I know that I went to Israel on that cruise”.

But I think his response was also a sign to the military-looking guy, who appeared as if from nowhere at that moment with my passport and said “welcome to Lebanon” as he handed me back the vital document.

Le Bristol Hotel & Kabaji Hamra Street

Epaket77, CC BY-SA 4.0

We rather liked Le Bristol Hotel. Steeped in Beirut history, it felt like “the” place to stay for the couple of nights we were to be in Beirut. An affordable luxury too.

Sad to learn that the economic crisis and then the pandemic led to the place permanently closing in 2020. It’s history and undignified end well described and illustrated in the Middle East Eye piece – click here.

It’s hard to tell for sure, but I’m guessing that the Kababji in question, given the Hamra Street clue, is this one – click here.

Not many reviews post pandemic – ouch!

Photographing yer food hadn’t been invented back then, but it is more than likely that our meze looked a bit like this:

Serge Melki from Indianapolis, USA, CC BY 2.0

We’d made a good start.

Ivanov by Anton Chekhov, Almeida Theatre, 1 March 1997

We loved this play and production.

In those days, Ralph Fiennes was one of my buddies as Lambton Place…

…OK, what I really mean is that I’d quite often see him there and we were nodding acquaintances.

Anyway, Fiennes was doing great theatre work in those days, not least at the Almeida, which was having a heyday under the joint leadership of Iain McDiarmid (also one of my nodding acquaintances in the Notting Hill neighbourhood back then, as it happens) and Jonathan Kent.

I wrote in my log:

Very good production. Ian McDiarmid near stole the show the night we went understudying as Kosykh.

Here is a link to the Theatricalia entry, which informs us that John cater was supposed to play Kosykh.

Anyway…

Charles Spencer loved it in The Telegraph:

Ivanov Spencer TelegraphIvanov Spencer Telegraph 20 Feb 1997, Thu The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Nicholas de Jongh was less sure in The Standard:

Ivanov, de Jongh, StandardIvanov, de Jongh, Standard 20 Feb 1997, Thu Evening Standard (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Paul taylor spoke highly of it in The Independent:

Ivanov, Taylor, IndependentIvanov, Taylor, Independent 21 Feb 1997, Fri The Independent (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

While my friend, Michael Billington, loved it:

Ivanov, Billington, GuardianIvanov, Billington, Guardian 20 Feb 1997, Thu The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

…as did we (have I mentioned that yet?) – then we left the country for a few weeks.

Submission To Mark Brailsford Re NewsRevue, 1 March 1997

Mark Brailsford
News Revue

LIST OF SONGS SUBMITTED AND TAPE TRACK LISTING
MARCH TO APRIL 1997 RUN

Dear Mark

Welcome to News Revue!! It was good to hear from you the other day. As promised , here is a starter pack which consists of my latest songs plus some older ones which have longevity or are still topical.

Good luck and I look forward to seeing you soon.

Song Title
Original Title/
Artist on Tape Approx.. No. of weeks performed
7+ 4-6 1-3 New
side 1
plagiarise walk on by / dionne warwick N
labour medley world war two songs by ghastly soldiers 7+
what’s the story boring tory? what’s the story morning glory / oasis N
netanyahu chorus halleluja chorus / handel 1-3
paisley and adams father and son / cat stevens 7+
labour chorus symphony no 1 mov iv / brahms N
john major just cares for my baby just cares for me / nina simone 4-6
tony blair gloria / vivaldi N
hooray for bollywood hooray for hollywood / orignal cast N
i cannot run the government i’ll never fall in love again / ddionne warwick 1-3
side 2
short beckett prescott and the amazing tony blaire simon smith and the amazing dancing bear / alan price 7+
stakeholder economy don’t sit under the apple tree / andrews sisters 7+

Cardiff East by Peter Gill, Cottesloe Theatre, 22 February 1997

My log is quite clear about our opinion of this piece:

It was dreadful. We walked out at half time.

But wait – look at the stellar cast. Here’s the Theatricalia entry for it. Kenneth Cranham, Karl Johnson, Elizabeth Estensen, Windsor Davis…

…and Di Botcher. Di Botcher who directed Newsrevue in 1994 and seemed so keen on my stuff. Where’s the mutual support?

Well, in truth I do think that Di Botcher can act. Her role in this miserablist piece, as far as I could tell, was mostly to stand around looking miserable. Di stood around looking miserable with aplomb.

Here’s what our friend Michael Billington had to say…and you know for sure that when he uses the phrases “important” and “not an easy evening” that misery must be part of it:

Billington On Cardiff EastBillington On Cardiff East Thu, Feb 13, 1997 – 2 · The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) · Newspapers.com

East of Cardiff…

Michael Coveney in the Observer speaks more highly of it…

Michael Coveney on Cardiff EastMichael Coveney on Cardiff East Sun, Feb 16, 1997 – 73 · The Observer (London, Greater London, England) · Newspapers.com

…perhaps we should have stuck it out to the second half after all. But we were about to fly off to Lebanon & Syria just over a week later, so time was at a premium…and they really know how to play for sympathy over there.

We didn’t learn our lesson about Peter Gill’s miserablist Welsh plays, because just over 10 years later we went to see a revival of Small Change at the Donmar and got precious little out of that one either:

Some folk never learn, mark you.

Plagiarise, NewsRevue Lyric, 11 February 1997

This one went down pretty well, if I recall correctly, in Mark Brailsford’s spring 1997 run of NewsRevue.

PLAGIARISE
(To the Tune of “Walk On By”)

VERSE 1

If you should be walking down the street,
And you hear a tune you think is neat.
Just
Plagiarise
Plagiarise
Gabby’s eyes,
Are covered, like this song,
No one can see;
What she’s done,
That Dionne,
Had not done,
In 1963;
More easily
(Don’t…….bother)
More soulfully
(Don’t……bother).

VERSE 2

I just hope that I don’t end up sued,
Cos all my hits are deja vu;
Plagiarise,
Plagiarise,
Some eye-tie’s
Just stitched up Michael Jackson copy-wise,
Cos that song,
That he’s done,
Was written,
By some other guys;
Plagiarise,
(Just…….stop)
Plagiarise,
(Just…….stop)

Below is a video with Dionne Warwick singing Walk On By:

Click here to read the lyrics of Walk On By.

The Rehearsal by Jean Anouilh, Questors Theatre, 8 February 1997

My log suggests that I lost the programme and therefore all record of this event, but thanks to those wonderful people at The Questors Theatre who seem to archive absolutely everything, I have been able to retrieve the programme and all the details of the cast and creatives – click here for the Questors archive link.

Click here for the Questors programme, just in case it is no longer available through the above link.

I have always had a soft spot for Anouilh, ever since I saw his Antigone at Alleyn’s in my first year of secondary school.

I must admit, though, that lighter, lesser Anouilh has not dated as well as his more serious work. The Rehearsal falls into the “lighter work” category. It seems extraordinary today that this play fell foul of the British theatre censors until the 1960s.

Still, my vague recollection of this production was that it was quite eye-catching and held our attention.

The diary is silent on where we ate afterwards.

The deal with Pauline on Questors nights was that she did the theatre tickets, Janie did the interval drinks and I did the dinners. No sign of me putting a credit card down for a fancy meal that night, so I’m guessing that we had a modest dinner at Wine & Moussaka, which I recall us doing occasionally after the Questors.

The Cripple Of Inishmaan by Martin McDonagh, Cottesloe Theatre, 1 February 1997

We were neither of us too sure about this play/production.

Granted, it was extremely well received. Granted, we recognised Martin McDonagh’s talent and said we’d like to see more of his work, which subsequently we have done.

But this particular play/production felt like a pastiche of a pre war Irish play to us and left us a bit cold.

Here is a link to the production’s Theatricalia entry.

Charles Spencer in The Telegraph shared some of our concerns:

Inishmaan Charles Spencer TelegraphInishmaan Charles Spencer Telegraph 09 Jan 1997, Thu The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Nicholas de Jongh similarly:

Inishmaan Nicholas de Jongh StandardInishmaan Nicholas de Jongh Standard 08 Jan 1997, Wed Evening Standard (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

While Michael Billington praised the work highly while also signalling that he felt McDonagh could achieve yet greater things:

Inishmaan Billington GuardianInishmaan Billington Guardian 09 Jan 1997, Thu The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

A Few Diary Notes & Memories About Evenings, Second Half Of January 1997

Photo by Famartin, CC BY-SA 4.0

18 January 1997: John Random (Burns) & Jenny Mill At Sandall Close

I think this was the first time we had dinner with those two. Janie dutifully wrote in her diary “fish only, no meat” so my guess is that we did indeed eat fish.

Who would have thought that, inadvertently, we’d see those two for a meal almost exactly 25 years later, but we did indeed go to their place in Bromley for a super meal on Sunday 16 January 2022.

24 January 1997: Bridge At Maz’s Place

I’m guessing here, but the four would probably have been Maz (obvs), me (also obvs), Andrea and Tessa at that time.

I think Maz was living in Becklow Road, Acton by then.

The eating and drinking will have been as central to the evening as the bridge, if not more so.

25 January 1997: Dinner At Stuart & Cathy’s Place

Stuart Kent (“Little Mick” Kent, my dad’s cousin’s son) and his partner Cathy Andrews.

They lived in Muswell Hill in a rather eccentric-looking penthouse apartment designed in an uber-1970s garish style, which they had inherited from the previous owner – an unusual look they clearly liked & had enhanced.

Very pleasant evenings, all three, I’m sure.

Art by Yasmina Reza, Wyndham’s Theatre, 11 January 1997

Oh by gosh we enjoyed this one. I wrote in my log:

Great fun. Subsequently, the cast changed every five minutes, but we saw the “original” UK cast.

And what a cast that was: Albert Finney, Tom Courtenay and Ken Stott.

Unusually, it was Janie who booked this one. How do I know – because the details are all over her diary, not mine…and boy did Janie write down details. So I can report that the play was 1 hour 40 minutes without an interval and that we sat in K22 & K23.

While the play/production was a huge hit and ran for yonks, it was not universally praised by the critics.

Nicholas de Jongh in The Standard quite liked it:

Art Nicholas de Jongh StandardArt Nicholas de Jongh Standard 16 Oct 1996, Wed Evening Standard (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

My friend Michael Billington was not too sure about the take on art while accepting that it was an enjoyable night at the theatre:

Art Billington GuardianArt Billington Guardian 16 Oct 1996, Wed The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

While David Benedict in the Independent wrote:

Art David benedict independentArt David benedict independent 26 Oct 1996, Sat The Independent (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com