Delhi, Bhutan, Nepal & Dubai Journey Day Zero: Leaving Home, 18 March 2000

Janie says goodbye to Nobby at Ruislip Honda

We had a fascinating set of adventures in Asia that spring. The good news is that we have a plethora of photographs and a pretty detailed travel journal from which to construct these Ogblog pieces.

The not such good news is that I seem to have mislaid my Steppes East Itinerary for this trip. Mind you, the itinerary would be uninformative for much of the Bhutan leg of the trip, as we ended up staying in different places than those originally listed in all locations, other than in Thimphu, where we stayed at the Druk Hotel as planned. The journal and stories that follow will explain.

Update: Itinerary Rediscovered…

I found it, misplaced, at the flat. I have scanned the document. Here is a link to it.

…And Now, Back To The Story

I recorded very little about the outbound travel day:

Rose early to pack and prepare to leave. Put car in for service and bought a feast of raw fish for our lunch. Event free journey.

It seems most strange that I took Nobby in for service on the day we were leaving. I can only surmise that Mac Small, the lovely manager at Ruislip Honda who used to look after us so nicely, agreed to give Nobby forecourt space for the duration of our holiday. Perhaps they thought he was so beautiful that he would attract interest and therefore act as an advertising model of their showroom.

Also a slightly unusual choice of food ahead of a long journey, but perhaps we had a crazy craving for some sashimi and surmised, quite rightly, that such dining would be denied us on our trip to (mostly landlocked) Asian countries.

We would have bought the fish from Atari-Ya in West Acton – then not too far from Janie’s place and now (25 years later) just a three minute walk from our Noddyland residence.

Image borrowed from Google – click here for the relevant Google link/review.

In those days, the owner, Mr Sakai, would no doubt have served us our sashimi himself.

Pictures from the whole journey are on Flickr in four albums. If you just want to ogle pictures and read picture captions, they might be all you need, rather than the several Ogblog articles that will follow. Each of the images below is a Flickr album link.

01 9 March 2000 Delhi Imperial Hotel - Ian with the doorman and our guide Harmahindra Singh and driver G Singh DBD_J1_Photo01_0
001 Vistas on the road to Punakha DBD_J4_Photo33_32
062 Patan courtyard from top floor balcony DBD_J10_Photo28_27
31 Pokhara - lakeside scenes DBD_I8_Photo15_15A

Krapp’s Last Tape by Samuel Beckett, New Ambassadors Theatre, 11 March 2000

This was the first of two Krapps that Janie and I had in the early part of the century, as it were. The second was Harold Pinter’s Krapp at The Royal Court, which I shall Ogblog in the fullness of time.

I really liked this one, John Hurt’s, while marginally preferring the Pinter. Janie only got on with Harold’s Krapp.

This one included the mime show intro, whereas Harold’s didn’t. I expect it was the mime show and banana business that put Janie off a bit.

I had long rated John Hurt as an actor and felt he did justice to this difficult part…and that it did justice to him.

Here is a link to the Theatricalia entry for this production.

The critics got very excited at the idea of John Hurt bringing his acclaimed Gate Theatre Dublin performance of Krapp to London. Here’s Maureen Paton in The Telegraph a couple of weeks before the show landed in London:

Paton Krapp TelegraphPaton Krapp Telegraph 13 Jan 2000, Thu The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Actually, we got wind of this production late and ended up booking seats for the very last night of the run, in order to score decent ones. Janie’s diary note reads “Row C – four rows back”.

Here is Patrick Marmion’s review from The Standard:

Krapp Marmion StandardKrapp Marmion Standard 28 Jan 2000, Fri Evening Standard (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Charles Spencer waxed lyrical about both play and production in the Telegraph:

Krapp Spencer TelegraphKrapp Spencer Telegraph 31 Jan 2000, Mon The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Dublin Carol by Conor McPherson, Royal Court Theatre, 10 March 2000

Janie and I had been blown away by The Weir, the previous year…

…and were very keen to see Conor McPherson’s next one.

Further, as members who had been loyal through the years of “exile” while The Royal Court was being redone, we were invited that Friday afternoon to a “guided tour” of the revamped building. Janie and I were both motivated to take a Friday afternoon off work and “go see” before the show.

It was on that tour that Janie and I spotted the little nook seat in a recess of the stairway just before you get to the upstairs bar…latterly the library. We took a shine to that nook and for many years took great pleasure in having a pre-show or interval drink in there.

As for Dublin Carol, we really liked it and it cemented our view that Conor McPherson was a writer to watch. It didn’t quite pack the punch of The Weir, but that play was always going to be a tough act to follow.

Brian Cox played the lead in Dublin Carol, with great charisma. Andrew Scott, & Bronagh Gallagher were also excellent in support. Ian Rickson directed.

I’m not sure what the critics made of it at the time…let’s find out.

I’d forgotten this bit, but because of delays to the finishing of The Royal Court, Dublin Carol previewed at The Old Vic for a while. Susannah Clapp reviewed it, with great enthusiasm, there…

Dublin Carol Clapp ObserverDublin Carol Clapp Observer 23 Jan 2000, Sun The Observer (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

…as did Michael Billington in The Guardian…

Dublin Carol, Billington GuardianDublin Carol, Billington Guardian 22 Jan 2000, Sat The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

But most of the subsequent reviews seemed to want to talk about the grand opening of the newly refurbished Royal Court than the play/production that graced it, doing McPherson, Cox et. al. no favours. Please note, the grand opening was two or three weeks before the hoi polloi tour that we enjoyed in March.

Royal Court IndependentRoyal Court Independent 18 Feb 2000, Fri The Independent (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Royal Court StandardRoyal Court Standard 23 Feb 2000, Wed Evening Standard (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

At least Charles Spencer had the good grace to laud both the Champagne-swilling opening and the production:

Dublin Carol Spencer TelegraphDublin Carol Spencer Telegraph 24 Feb 2000, Thu The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

The Real Thing by Tom Stoppard, Albery Theatre, 26 February 2000

This production was credited as “Donmar Warehouse at the Albery” and everything about it was Donmar Warehouse, but playing away from home. This production had received glowing reviews and awards the year before at the Donmar. We missed out then but were not about to miss out on it now.

Excellent cast, Nigel Lindsay, Sarah Woodward, Stephen Dillane & Jennifer Ehle leading, with David Leveaux directing.

Here is a Theatricalia entry link for this one.

No notes in the log, but I remember it as a very good production and I am pretty sure that Janie warmed to it.

We had seen an amateur production of The Real Thing at The Questors a few year’s earlier, along with The Duchess (Janie’s mum)…

Our “Donmar Warehouse at The Albery” experience was a more relaxing evening and a very fine production. Janie doesn’t really warm to Stoppard, but she did warm to this one.

I won’t overdo the reviews, as they are from the original production 9 months earlier, but here’s just a couple of examples of the raving – the first from our friend Michael Billington in The Guardian…

Real Thing Billington GuardianReal Thing Billington Guardian 03 Jun 1999, Thu The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

…followed by a fairly rare example of Charles Spencer in the Telegraph lining up with Billington to praise the same production to the rafters:

Real Thing Spencer TelegraphReal Thing Spencer Telegraph 03 Jun 1999, Thu The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

I think Janie must have sourced these tickets, because her diary notes that we’ll be sitting in the fifth row. Great diary detail, 25 years on, that one.

Kyrie Eleison, The King’s Consort, Wigmore Hall, 23 February 2000

A delicious concert of baroque, mostly sacred, music at The Wig. We had thrown ourselves into the baroque season that year, venturing even on a Wednesday evening, which was usually off limits in our busy lives back then. I recall that the effort was well worth it.

We heard:

  • Johann Heinrich Schmelzer – Sonata no 8 in G
  • Sebastian Knüpfer – Wenn Mein Stundlein Vorhanden Ist
  • Johann Sebastian Bach – Mass in G Minor, BWV 235
  • Johann Sebastian Bach – Mass in G Major, BWV 236
  • Georg Muffat – Sonata ‘a cinque’ in D
  • Johann Kuhnau – Tristis Est Anima Mea

Back then, The King’s Consort was a bit of an “all stars” affair in the early music world, with Carolyn Sampson, Rebecca Outram, Charles Daniels and Andrew Carwood, to name but four, all appearing under Robert King’s banner.

Some unusual pieces in there too. Let’s see if I can dig out some tasty samples. Here’s a sweet performance of the Schmelzer by Ensemble Masques

The Knüpfer was part of The King’s Consort’s recording projects around that time. Here is their recording:

The first of the Bach Masses at the centre of this concert, BWV 235, has been beautifully recorded live by the Netherlands Bach Society.

Here is Herreweghe’s version of the Kyrie from the Bach Mass BWV 236. You can load and click through for the whole of this mass if you wish:

The King’s Consort had also recently recorded the Kuhnau a couple of years before this concert. Here is their beautiful recording.

Logic by Stephanie McKnight, Chelsea Theatre, 12 February 2000

For a brief while, that little theatre in Chelsea, near World’s End, was one of our favourite fringe places. Janie and I rated this piece as:

Very good.

Small scale and domestic – that tiny theatre didn’t lend itself to scale works, this one, like the other plays we saw there during that period, held our attention, entertained us and made us think.

Not much in the way of formal reviews to be found, but here goes. Rachel Halliburton in the Independent was sufficiently convinced to write it up briefly:

Logic Halliburton IndependentLogic Halliburton Independent 26 Feb 2000, Sat The Independent (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Lyn Gardner in The Guardian also gave it the short but sweet review treatment:

Logic Gardner GuardianLogic Gardner Guardian 17 Feb 2000, Thu The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

My Best Friend by Tamsin Oglesby, Hampstead Theatre, 11 February 2000

In truth we don’t remember much about this one. I made no notes in my log about it. I think we quite liked it, but it felt like fairly standard Hampstead Theatre fare.

The Hampstead was still in the portacabins back then, so small, chamber-style work was all the place comfortably could do. Still, we liked the place and went occasionally.

Paul Taylor in the Indy liked it:

Best Friend Taylor IndyBest Friend Taylor Indy 05 Feb 2000, Sat The Independent (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Charles Spencer in the Telegraph also liked it quite a bit:

Best Friend Spencer TelegraphBest Friend Spencer Telegraph 27 Jan 2000, Thu The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

On the other hand, Nicholas de Jongh in The Standard described it as bland:

Best Friend de Jongh StandardBest Friend de Jongh Standard 25 Jan 2000, Tue Evening Standard (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

We saw it on a Friday evening, so no doubt, in those days, we went to Harry Morgans in St John’s Wood for some crazy=cracing-J-food on the way to the theatre.

The Island by Athol Fugard, John Kani & Winston Ntshona, Lyttelton Theatre, 5 February 2000

Janie and I rated this one very highly…

Really good

…says my log.

I had been a fan of Athol Fugard for many years by then and was very keen to see his long-time associates, John Kani & Winston Ntshona, perform. A set up that can lead to disappointment, but in this instance my enthusiasm was fully justified.

Here is the Theatricalia entry for this production.

Charles Spencer in the Telegraph loved it:

Island Spencer TelegraphIsland Spencer Telegraph 28 Jan 2000, Fri The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Nicholas de Jongh in the Standard also rated it very highly:

Island de Jongh StandardIsland de Jongh Standard 27 Jan 2000, Thu Evening Standard (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Our friend Michael Billington gave it a rare full five stars, so he must have really loved it:

Island Billington GuardianIsland Billington Guardian 27 Jan 2000, Thu The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

One of those special nights at the theatre, for us, this was.

The Lady In The Van by Alan Bennett, Queen’s Theatre, 4 February 2000

This play/production was hugely hyped and got rave reviews when it opened a few week’s before we attended. I think we applied for our tickets before the show opened, opting to wait until good seats were available. Even then, we needed to opt for a Friday rather than a Saturday to get what we wanted. Such was the pull of the West End, not least Maggie Smith…or rather “Dame Maggie”…in those days.

Here’s a link to the Theatricalia entry for this one.

Here’s a gushing preview from The Telegraph, by way of example:

Dame Maggie Telegraph PreviewDame Maggie Telegraph Preview 03 Dec 1999, Fri The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Despite Janie’s reservations about Dame Maggie, we were drawn in and actually rather enjoyed this production. The play is a little contrived and mawkish, but the performances, especially Dame Maggie’s, were excellent, as was the intriguing van-themed set.

Van Butler IndependentVan Butler Independent 12 Dec 1999, Sun The Independent (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Charles Spencer also loved it:

Van Spencer TelegraphVan Spencer Telegraph 09 Dec 1999, Thu The Daily Telegraph (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Some equivocation in Nicholas de Jongh’s Standard review, that reflects my thoughts on the play/production more than the utter gush reviews:

Van de Jongh Standard

Praise with some equivocation also from our friend Michael Billington in the Guardian:

Van Billington GuardianVan Billington Guardian 08 Dec 1999, Wed The Guardian (London, Greater London, England) Newspapers.com

Looking back 25 years Janie and I are both glad we saw this one.

The Passing Of Ivan Shakespeare, 3 February 2000

I am writing this 20 years to the day since the sudden and tragic death of Ivan Shakespeare, who collapsed and died of a heart attack while jogging.

Ivan was a friend through and fellow writer for NewsRevue.

His career as a comedy writer was well documented some years ago on the comedy collective writers project website – now, like Ivan, no longer with us. But that site, including the excellent Ivan Shakespeare biography piece, has been preserved on the Wayback Machine click here.

I learnt of Ivan’s passing a few days later, I believe.

I recall John Random phoning me and also asking me what I thought he should say in the Independent newspaper obituary piece he had been asked to write. I remember saying that I thought the irony, dying while undertaking activity to try and get fit, would not have been wasted on Ivan. I was chuffed that John used that idea at the start of his obituary – transcribed in the biography above and scanned, with thanks to John Random, below.

John has also, kindly, scanned one or two other obituary pieces:

I have extracted the relevant page from The Stage, which shows not only Ivan’s obit but the good company he kept that week.

Along with several other fellow NewsRevue writers, I attended Ivan’s funeral at Hoop Lane Crematorium. I remember the comedic touch of Ivan’s trademark hat sitting atop the coffin. I remember feeling so very sad for Elspeth, Ivan’s partner.

I remember how awkward everyone felt; we were a comedic lot, struggling to deal with a tragic situation. To what extend could/should we make light of any part of the event? To be sure it was not a time for mordant or sardonic humour. I concluded that many comedy writers are, at heart, amongst the most maudlin people on earth.

Yet a magnificent thing emerged from this tragedy.

A few week’s before his untimely death, Ivan sent an e-mail to the few of us who were already e-mail friendly, suggesting that, although several of us had started to drift away from the regular NewsRevue gatherings, it would be nice to meet occasionally in any case, perhaps dine together, perhaps watch the show or perhaps both.

A few of us at the funeral concluded that we really must implement that lovely idea. John Random picked up the mantle and we have met several times a year, every year, since.

We have named those gatherings Ivan Shakespeare Memorial Dinners.

The first was, I think, around May 2000. I’ll write it up in the fullness of time. I have written up most of the more recent ones – see above link (repeated here). The next one (at the time of writing) is scheduled for early April 2020.

Ivan would have loved those events. He would also have loved the idea that he initiated and caused them.

20 years gone and still missed. Ivan Shakespeare.