How The EVA Air Girl Transformed Me Into Kung Fu Pandaman, 22 February 2017

Don’t be fooled by this benign-looking in-flight scene…

We flew EVA Air (a Taiwanese airline) to and from Thailand on this occasion, on an excellent business class deal. Janie and I were both hugely impressed by the quality and professionalism throughout the journey.

But on the flight home from Bangkok to Heathrow, the strangest thing happened; I was transformed into Kung Fu Pandaman.

It seemed a benign enough flight and interaction at first. Lillian, the air stewardess in the picture above, handed me, amongst other things, a pair of pyjamas for the flight. I have not worn pyjamas since escaping the clutches of my parents’ mores around 1980, so I attempted to return the pyjamas to Lillian.

On the outbound journey, my polite, “no thank you” to the air hostess was simply accepted. But when I tried similarly on the return journey with Lillian, she abruptly said, “you must have them,” and insisted that I retain the pyjamas.

Then, when clearing up after dinner, she again challenged my attempted rejection of the pyjamas. “Our pyjamas are wonderful. You will love them. In fact, you must try wearing them.” Janie captured this exchange in the picture below; it could be argued that Lillian’s entreaty came with menaces.

“I insist that you will like these pyjamas”

I asked Janie what she thought the protocol or etiquette was for donning aircraft pyjamas. Janie’s view was that these business class seats were so individual and private that I could change into the pyjamas discreetly in situ, but that if I felt self-conscious about doing that I could change in the loo.

Self-conscious – moi? Change in the loo – moi?  No way and not on your nelly, respectively.

A strange transformation

As I donned the unfamiliar garb, I felt a strange transformation coming over me. Was it my unfamiliarity with nightwear? Was it the glass of port I’d had with my cheese? Or was it a more profound transformation than that…

…super-human skills…

…suddenly I felt that I had supreme martial arts skills. Only my deep-seated good manners and concern for other travellers prevented me from releasing a bestial roar…

…no doubt about it…

I rose to my feet and Janie gasped, in awe and wonderment, “oh my! It’s Kung Fu Pandaman”.

“Wham bam, thank you ma’m”, I replied; an ejaculation quite out of character for me, but not, it seems, for someone who is transforming into Kung Fu Pandaman.

Some serious moves – chiropractors and masseuses should look away now

I imagined that my superhero transformation was to some purpose; perhaps the plane was about to be hijacked or the pilots were all about to fall sick; something of that kind, requiring a superhero to restore calm and safety for all passengers.

But strangely, no superhero requirement was forthcoming. Which was a bit of an anticlimax.

Tai Chi Pyjamaman

“On second thoughts”, said Janie, “perhaps you look more like Tai Chi Pyjamaman”.

“Z/Yenshin!” I said, as I started to transform back to the reality that awaits when we land.

Tragically, when we got off the plane, I “forgot” to take my pyjamas with me, just as Janie “forgot” to take her pair too. Stewardess Lillian is no doubt still stewing over the pyjama rejection.

Vietnam Holiday Days Zero & One: London To Saigon Via Bangkok, 9 & 10 February 2012

There is a placeholder with links to all of the photos, itineraries etc. for this Vietnam holiday – here.

Incident free journey from Daisy’s house to the Park Hyatt Hotel in Saigon via Heathrow in Bangkok.

The only remarkable thing about the journey was the lack of remarkable things.

The food on Thai Air was excellent. We set the scene for South East Asian food with green chicken curry as a main and some noodle soup as our breakfast and some chicken and pineapple rice as a second breakfast on the Bangkok to Saigon hop. Good wines and more sleep than usual – still not all that much!

Met by beaming rep (Thien?) who reminded us a bit of Ky!

I need to explain. Ky had been our wonderful guide in Central Vietnam when we first visited the country in 1996.

Me, Ky & A Luverly Bunch Of Coconuts, Outskirts Of Hue, 1996

Quite by chance, it transpired that Ultimate Travel – which we used for this 2012 trip – used the same local agents, Vidotour, as Asia World – which we had used in 1996. I sent the Ultimate agent some of my images of our guides from 1996 and it transpired that Ky, who had been a young guide starting out in 1996, was now Group Director of Marketing for the local agent. He was keen to meet us and for us to have dinner with his family. More on that story anon.

Our room was made available to us immediately, for which we were grateful. We slept a while and Daisy enjoyed a swim.

Then later in the afternoon we ventured round the block to a couple of big malls full of posh shops and eateries but not too well endowed with customers. First Vincom, then Parkson.

Then a relatively early dinner at Square One, the Vietnamese and Western restaurant at the Park Hyatt. We tried pork spring roll wrapped in mustard leaf, river prawn in beans sauce and slow cooked short rib of beef (like my Guangzhou brisket dish). Amazing medley of chocolate puddings and chat with Aussie chef afterwards.

An Independent Trip To Northern Thailand & Vietnam, Part Three: To Chiang Mai Province, Visiting Hmong & Lisu Hill Tribes, 15 March 1996

Set off early for Chiang Mai – met by Kongburi and driver L’Erm.

All right, orchid?

Butterflies

Set off, saw orchids & butterfly garden, then on to a Hmong village

Hmong Village (above) with Hmong people (below)

Then on to Tad Mok Falls.

Then Chinese lunch in Mae Ta – on through the market and then to Mae Taeng elephant ride fiasco followed by bamboo rafting.

I described the elephant ride as a fiasco, because I recall really feeling uncomfortable about the elephants, especially my one, who seemed unhappy and hungry. Mine kept wandering off to the side of the track to try to grab a nibble, only to be roughly discouraged from doing so by the dude at the front of the elephant. I note that if you Google “Mae Taeng Elephant Park” 25 years later, you find a lot of bad reviews and references to cruelty. I’m not surprised based on our experience.

Unusually for me, I found the raft trip afterwards more to my taste than the elephant ride, whereas I was expecting to feel more comfortable on land!

In the Lisu Village – Kongburi negotiating while I display the body language of indifference

Then on to Lisu Village – quaint Lisu Lodge – just us [staying the night]…

…the music and the giant flying roaches.

Showered washed and walked around village – got sold to – ate – got played at – then to bed.

I really should expand the story of our stay at the Lisu Lodge. It was a lovely but fairly rudimentary place back then. It is a fancy-schmanzy eco lodge now. Good luck to the place.

The Lisu people were sweet and gentle and very welcoming. They did seem especially keen to sell us their trinkets though.

We were the only guests that night.

Janie and I particularly remember the meal. We have just the one photo of me being served the food (above).

We had been looking forward to our private dining experience. However, we were joined more or less throughout the meal by a local who serenaded us with his traditional stringed instrument, which was probably a relative of the pipa or Chinese lute. He played pretty well and at first it sounded really nice, but after a while we were craving a little more privacy and a little less noise.

Then, out of the blue, came a giant flying roach (or beetle) which noisily landed right behind us and startled us both. The musician calmly stopped playing and gently removed the beetle in his hands. Daisy and I gave the musician a round of applause for removing the giant insect, which he took to be applause for the end of his set, so he bowed and left, taking the pipa and beetle with him.

Thus we spent the rest of our meal in quiet, tranquil privacy.

All of our photos from the Thai leg of the journey can be found on Flickr through the link here and below.

=01 13 March 1996 - Jim Thompson

An Independent Trip To Northern Thailand & Vietnam, Part Two: A Day At The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market & Then Bangkok Markets, 14 March 1996

Janie loves a market and our first full day on this trip was very much a “tour markets” day.

Salty scenes on the way to the floating market

Rose early – left for Damnoen Saduak Floating Market with private guide Priong and driver Roj.

Look round market (very photogenic).

Very photogenic – see headline picture, above and below. In truth quite a touristic place, even back then.

Return to town – fabulous seafood lunch on Soi 24 Sukhamvit – top rate.

Then home straight on to Oriental Hotel and shopping plazas – light supper in River City Shopping Centre – then home for early night.

I look a little under-dressed there for the Oriental Hotel, but oh my gosh I still have that holiday short-sleeved shirt
Daisy looks like the sort of lass who likes her grub.

All of our photos from the Thai leg of the journey can be found on Flickr through the link here and below.

=01 13 March 1996 - Jim Thompson

An Independent Trip To Northern Thailand & Vietnam, Part One: Arrival & Bangkok, 12 & 13 March 1996

Writing up our first major independent travel holiday, 25 years later, in March 2021, is no easy task. While I did take notes on this trip, which helps, I did not keep the sort of comprehensive journal that was my habit on earlier big trips and became my habit again later.

Further, Janie and I have both mislaid our printed itinerary for this adventure, although I know I did have a copy of it as recently as 2011 when we were arranging a return visit to Vietnam; infuriating.

Still, we have a wonderful collection of annotated photos, which helps. I also still have our trusty mid 1990s copies of the Lonely Planet Guides to Thailand and Vietnam, well thumbed and helpfully folding open easily on the more oft-used pages.

So let’s go!

12 March 1996 – Left London on time! Event free flight.

I told you the notes are quite light. I’m pretty sure we flew Thai Air. Last class it would have been, but on Thai Air that wasn’t too bad.

13 March 1996 – Arrive Bangkok on time (6:20 am). Went to BelAire Princess [now BelAire Bangkok] with drunken guide Kai.

Bathed and then set off for Jim Thompson House (interesting).

See headline photo and also the one below.

Then on to Chinatown for fine noodle lunch and look around markets etc.

Chinatown & markets, Bangkok style – above and below

Took tuk-tuk back to hotel – slept.

Dined in the hotel – Thai meal – then slept more.

All of our photos from the Thai leg of the journey can be found on Flickr through the link here and below.

=01 13 March 1996 - Jim Thompson's house, Bangkok - exterior 011

A Dreadful Journey Home From Bali, Via Jakarta, Bangkok & Abu Dhabi, Worthy Of Complaint, “Courtesy” Of Garuda Indonesia, 12 & 13 December 1993

…but then…

The grueling experience that was the journey home from this wonderful holiday is well documented in my letters of complaint (which follow).

My main beef was the diabolical service and poor hygiene on the replacement plane, especially the Jakarta to Bangkok leg, plus the constant “goal-post moving” in terms of what we were told about the timing of when we’d get back to Heathrow…not the fact that a scheduled plane was delayed due to a technical problem.

Connoisseurs of complaint letters, dissembling responses to complaint letters and follow up complaints complaining about the dissembling responses as well as the original complaint…

…might enjoy these.

My Original Complaint Letter – 18 December 1993.

Garuda’s First Response – 12 January 1994.

My Follow Up Complaint – Via Our Agent Kuoni – 22 January 1994

Garuda’s Second Dissembling Response – 27 January 1994

My Follow Up Letter Briefly Stating That I Really Mean It – 31 January 1994

Garuda Offer £70 If I Sign A Disclaimer (But Not An NDA) – 11 February 1994

Garuda Apologise…For Their Delayed (Apparently – Seemed Quick Enough To Me) Remittance Of My Cheque, But Not For The Flight Shambles That Led To My Complaint – 2 March 1994

I do recall a friend of mine, familiar with airlines from being “in the business”, reporting that Garuda Indonesia was known in the trade at that time simply as “Ruder”, in honour of it’s infamous service ethos.

My only other strong memory of this matter – absent from the complaint but vivid in my memory – was Janie’s ability to sleep on hard plastic chairs in bright lighting and with large noisy tour groups marching back and forth past our seats at Jakarta airport. No-one other than Janie in out unfortunate collection of passengers got a wink of sleep in those circumstances. I also recall some of the other passengers finding Janie’s ability to just curl up and sleep that way very amusing.

Before…
…after?