But if anyone is really so interested they want to try and decipher my scrawl and check that I have really typed up what I might have really be trying to say, here are scans of the hand-written logs; Part One covers the period of the first photo album, Part Two…:
If you prefer to read the typed up journals illustrated with pictures, these are going up during November & December 2020
Rose early – Martin brought his coffee at 6:15 and said goodbye to us.
Daisy watershed at seven under the very patient tutelage of Josh. She tried many many times (I didn’t count but guess 15 times) the antepenultimate go nearly worked, the penultimate one was yet another epic fail but the last go, albeit just a few seconds much of the pleasure of the English (Cornish) couple I was chatting with by that time…and it transpired most of the other Kaya Mawa guests who was spectating from the comfort of their rooms. Daisy reckons she’s got the idea of waterskiing out of her system now.
Back to the room for shower and then down to breakfast. After breakfast we read a while, observing that the water remain calm and the day quite cloudy – so we went down to snorkel c11:15 and snorkelled from the other beach to the main beach via the small island the latter of which seem to be the best source of diverse fish colours and species.
Time to make tea and read some more before lunch.
Then lunch comprising a butternut squash and was with soda bread and seed bun (of which we ate little) followed by a very tasty chicken salad with honey coconut pesto thing.
Michelle presented Daisy with her headbands, which pleased her a lot, plus some small gift bags.
Plenty of time for more reading and enjoying the hazy afternoon on our decks before a sundowner and get ready for the evening.
Then down for an early evening drink – Michelle and Richard join us for quite a while.
Then dinner of poached pear, parmesan & bacon. Then a chicken curry kebab style (I’m sure Richard had promised fish) followed by the bread-and-butter pudding slightly different style but especially good with coconut ice cream. We drank the delightful Chardonnay/ Pinot Noir blend we have enjoyed a few times.
Early night.
Our guard frog was too upset that we are leaving even to come and see us that night.
If you prefer to read the typed up journals illustrated with pictures, these are going up during November & December 2020
Rose early. Read. Took coffee. Read. To breakfast.
Chatted briefly with Nick, nice saffer gentleman who wondered about my journal and stuff. They have a game reserve in the north east of South Africa – game hunting, tobacco farming, maze farming and much besides. Sounds as though their farm is the size of this island!
After breakfast we kayak – more to Daisy’s taste than mine.
Then Daisy tried to paddleboard, quite successfully (just one fall) then we watch Richard and John waterski from the hammock, which was a less appetising place to sit than we had imagined.
Both Richard and especially John seemed very proficient.
Daisy arranged to have a go tomorrow early when it was less choppy.
Read a while before lunch.
Butter bean purée with basil and honey soda bread followed by haloumi salad. We requested an audience with chef Richard & had a good chat with him in the quiet lunch area.
Read, vegged and relaxed the afternoon away very pleasantly – reading Mansfield Park on the Kindle in my case.
We see our guard frog again as the sun is going down that she seems unsure whether to guard from the outside or the inside. He seems to have given up squatting on the daisies hat. Anyway we’re not sure whether to name him grandpa (grams) or Fido because he thinks he’s a dog.
Gramps…Fido…
Go down for an early evening glass of wine, very pleasant in bar area, then a dinner of butternut squash filled crispy wonton starter followed by pork in a wine and mushroom and almond sauce and veg. Nice saffer pinotage to wash it all down.
Ended up coming down to lunch quite late and were exiled to the Mango Tree! The starter of spicy hummus followed by chambo on a tasty fried rice with dried fruits, pine nuts etc was very good. Chatted with”Agent Honour” for awhile about flights and stuff.
More reading on our lovely decks.
We also went and had a look at a viewing point that afternoon A view from the viewing point. As is the headline photo of this pieceBeautiful plumage
Too soon, it starts to get dark – we thought about having a late swim but by the time the idea came up again it was too late.
We go down early for a predinner drink and the local singing dancing troop. We bumped into Richard and John running in the other direction with some pre-pre-dinner drinks, clearly keen to avoid the show.
It is a much steamer evening than before – very still.
We join the singing dancing for a couple of numbers. This time no one else joins in.
Daisy is unimpressed by the agents, especially the ones who plonk themselves at the front of the deck. We work up a good sweat dancing two numbers.
After the show, Richard and John re-emerge. They join us and we discuss cricket, corruption and polyhalite mining, like you do.
Then to dinner. The starter was a cold avocado soup with spicy crackers. The main beef with a rich wine and mushroom sauce, with layered potato cakes and sesame carrots for Hippity. Chocolate fondant thingy was surprisingly and a real rarity of a disappointing dish. Still another excellent meal and then to bed.
Put fan on for the first time in days as it was really sticky. Lots of lake flies too.
If you prefer to read the typed up journals illustrated with pictures, these are going up during November & December 2020
Slept remarkably long and well. Rose soon after dawn – coffee came circa 6:20.
Read, pottered, had breakfast and then got ready for our quad bike morning. Our guide was McDonald. He instructed us in the use of quad bikes. Then off we went in convoy.
“I’m not the quad bike type, McDonald. Can you run through that again?”
The quad bike has only forward, neutral and reverse gears. It has a footbrake for the rear wheels that barely works and the front wheel break (left) and a rear wheel break (right) that need to be operated simultaneously to avoid the risk of an upset. Needs some getting used to, especially on the stoney, hilly tracks. Fortunately, the early part of the journey is pretty flat.
First stop, a vantage point at the north of Ngani Bay, where the ferries and boats come in. We took some pictures and got latched onto by some kids who wanted to catch a ride on the back of our quads.
McDonald & I are not considering the kids’ request. We are trying to ignore them in the hope they would go away. (Didn’t work).
Next stop the market (very small) with a strange hollow tree that had taken over another tree and more kids. The teacher gave us a sob story about stolen books which we chose to ignore.
Then on to St Peter’s Cathedral, the largest Anglican church in central Africa and third largest in Africa… Or something like that.
Local guide Hallelujah seemed to take a shine to Daisy and held her hand while he showed us around and clipped me for a donation.
Then on to the witch doctor’s place – a rare request apparently with little hope of fulfilment, as last time someone tried to go there the witch doctor was off sick!
We are instructed to remove shoes and take a stick offering in our left hands.
Then we wait… Quite a long time.
We sing old Macdonald had a farm.
The grandson chats us up a bit and touches me for donation.
We get hot.
We are told that the great man is bathing and preparing to meet us. Then he waddles up to the scene.
Dr Kompalotta
A small gathering inside his hospital and we are invited to the front. Some incantations/prayers. Then we have a conversation with him through our guide. He is Dr Kompalotta. He was born in 1940. He studied between 1958 to 1961 at which point he went mad and spent several years naked in the bush. When his mother died in 1973 he realised that he was healed and could heal so he has been a traditional healer for 40 years. He introduced us to a young man whose mental illness was improving under his guidance. Also a man who had had a massively swollen leg which was now just a recovering foot with post septicaemia/lymphoedema, which Daisy inspected with some interest.
Still crazy after all these years…
Another donation and many photographs. Thanks and well wishes. Then on to our next stop.
Get your motor running; head out on the stone track…
We tried unsuccessfully to take Michelle’s suggestion of Mango Drift off the agenda but McDonald is very insistent, so we go rather a long way and it was very very rocky terrain – at one point losing a rather irate Daisy. We go back to find her waiting for us in the shade, so we walked down to Mango Drift, enjoy Ginger beer in the shade, then return to rescue a quads and head to our last stop. The Textile workshop, where lisa took our order and Charles measured as up for two made-to-measure dressing gowns (me) and to for Daisy.
Then back to Kaya Mawa circa 2:25, our morning ending late. A little hot and bothered but we had great fun. We take a late lunch of lentil appetiser with flatbread (we both just tasted) and an oriental style chicken and chickpea salad with sweet coconut sauce. A glass of green coffee.
We potter and beard trim after lunch. We chat with Ian and Nicky for a while, him KPMG, her CIMA. Lewisham based via Skipton, Bromley, Cayman Islands and Sydney.
Then come down early to do these write-ups and read others! Fabulous dinner of Thai fishcakes, fillet of pork medallions in sauce followed by an excellent bread-and-butter pudding.
Relatively late night by Malawi standards circa 2200.
If you prefer to read the typed up journals illustrated with pictures, these are going up during November & December 2020
Rose early and were brought coffee at circa 6:00/6:15. Wrote up. Pottered about and then took breakfast around 8:30 or 9 o’clock.
Prior to breakfast I discovered a sizeable frog on Daisy’s hat when I returned from backing up all our photos. We also observed and photographed a pied crow drinking the milk from our morning coffee.
We strolled around a bit to orient ourselves, sat on the sunbeds, enjoyed the plunge pool.
Enjoy the delicious lunch – guacamole with sourdough bread followed by a fish on a bed of couscous main. Coffee to follow.
Retired for a sunbed snooze in my case. Daisy wake me up at circa 15:30 so we had time for a quick swim in the lake and siesta proper before dark.
Got ready for evening went down early as there was a song and dance show from the local church/street/village choir/dance troupe. Soon we were joining in the dancing and soon after many others also joined in much to the delight of the staff.
After the excitement, the dinner. Chicken liver pate with a tomato relish and soda bread, then beef fillet with dauphinoise potatoes and sesame beans. Treacle tart desert, washed down with most but not all of a jolly pinotage.
If you prefer to read the typed up journals illustrated with pictures, these are going up during November & December 2020
We rose early and struggle to make the kettle work without help from Jane (housekeeping).
Birdlife at Hueglin’s Lodge is stunning – we sat out before breakfast and took it all in. Chatted with Marianne briefly.
To breakfast – saw Becca briefly (not talkative in the morning!) Then arranged a brief tour with Mike.
A new hotel in Lilongwe
He showed us the Capitol Hill, with many government buildings, the parliament building and a huge memorial to Hastings Banda. We discussed his track record and legacy.
Parliament BuildingsHastings Banda Memorial
Then in search of Trysh’s (Chip’s daughter’s) coffee shop. Mike erroneously takes us to Land and Lakes Safari, where they have a coffee shop, but actually the place we want is part of Ulendo [Ulendo Airlink is an internal airline] and we have had a more extensive tour of Lilongwe than planned.
We see markets and malls as we drive around – nothing much of note.
Trysh is not at her coffee shop, but we do meet her daughter Jeanie who is feeling poorly and goes off for a malaria test. One of our pilots and some of the other Ulendo crew are taking coffee there.
Later, Julie (Chip’s other daughter) appeared – she gave us some of the family low down and showed us a picture of the extended family. She also gave us some travel tips e.g. for negotiating Johannesburg airport.
We returned to Heuglin’s to collect our things, said goodbye to Pam and all and then off to the airport.
Despite our best efforts to downscale our luggage, Scarface tried quite hard to refuse my big bag, although the two together are within weight. We say goodbye to Mike after leaving our other baggage with Wilderness at the airport.
Soon we board the little plane and sit up close and personal with the pilots. The flight only takes 35 or so minutes and is very smooth.
We were met by Becky at the airport, who transported us in a couple of jeeps – 10 of us arriving at Kaya Mawa simultaneously – very unusual.
The weather was glorious – they had a couple of cloudy days on the back of our chiperoni but that’s all gone now, hopefully.
We are oriented by Michelle (one of Hippity’s cousins [Irish] and wife of chef Richard) then taken to our room and brought a light lunch of salad.
We oriented ourselves a bit after unpacking and speak with Josh who is a bit of a bouncy livewire.
Then we bath/shower ready for dinner – a pear with parmesan and pancetta starter, chicken in bacon sauce, mash and veg, a cheesecakey thing (least interesting but nice base) first two would have had walnuts but for us alerting them on orientation.
If you prefer to read the typed up journals illustrated with pictures, these are going up during November & December 2020
Rose early, took breakfast, settled the extras bill (surprisingly event-free and speedy) then had bags of time to write ups, final packing and early start for Mua.
We take a few photos along the way, but mostly spend the next three hours on the road.
Just outside Balaka, we saw people with Chewa Gule Wamkulu masks on their way to a funeral. I hurriedly opened my camera and snapped a great shot. It took an hour of fruitless snapping to prove to Daisy and that my success was sheer luck.
We were concerned reading up last night at the Museum might be closed on a Sunday, but Mike has assured us that the place opens on a Sunday so we were reassured.
Further reassurance came when we were met by a young man from the mission who showed us into the mission shop. We said we’d prefer to see the museum first. He said the museum is closed on a Sunday. This is a Catholic mission., so far the Boucher does not allow such commerce on a holy day…
…”But the shop is open for pity’s sake! Why does he allow that?” I wanted to say.
Mike asked to see Robert, the curator, who quickly appeared and told us it’s impossible to meet our request. The museum only opens on Sunday if there is a prior booking for an additional fee. The fact that we booked this back in January never filtered through to him. He would of course have helped if he could, but he can’t. The key is locked away in the priest’s house and the priest is out doing his Sunday mass rounds. He is making a few phone calls to see if there is a way of intercepting the priest.
Soon a German lady with two young German women arrive – the lady clearly knows Robert well and the whole problem is explained again. Robert says that the administrator also has a key but is not home and no one knows where he is.
Eventually we hatch a plan. As someone in the village thought they knew the fathers mass itinerary, so Robert, Mike and I went off to hunt down the father, leaving the womenfolk behind in the shop.
Welcome to Africa.
Two or three minutes down the road, we ran into the administrator. 30 seconds later we were turning around and returning victorious with the key. The mighty hunters had captured their game.
There’s easy!
The museum was duly opened Robert went into performance mode, explaining the Museum, the exhibits, the history and the link between tribal traditions and Christianity in these parts. The museum concentrates on Ngoni, Yao and Chewa tribes.
We had an interesting discussions in the museum about circumcision (Yao) other initiation rites among the tribes, HIV (the perennial conversation topic) and the role of women in these tribes and rights.
After the tour, Robert relieve me of $8 for the mission and I gave a further $10 for himself which seemed to please them. We also bought a book, a DVD and some serving spoons in the shop.
Then on our way to Dedza to the pottery. Then we met a nice young Danish lady working as a midwife in Lilongwe and Mike failed to secure the services of a guide for the rock art – he wanted $13 and a lift home which seemed excessive.
Instead, we headed up to Mpunzi Mountain while Mike contacted a local chap who met us and showed us for the panels there. $12 later (he knew how to charge) we were on our way to Heuglins Lodge, arriving just after dark.
Daisy took a lots of sunset pictures on the way, only a few will make the cut.
We were warmly greeted at Heuglins by Jane, Pam, Emma and later on Chris. This is certainly an “all dine around the table” place so, so although they offered to set us up separately in the garden for dinner, we thought better of it. Especially, as Daisy pointed out, because “we might be eaten alive out there”.
We washed and changed and got down for dinner late.
Marianne (from Norway) Becca (from JAGS, London) and Frank (from Zambia). Chris joined us for a chat about Malawi, travel, NGOs, HIV, gender issues, cricket and more besides.
We retired quite early and well fed on a cheese plate, chicken with mash and veg and a raspberry sorbet type thing.
If you prefer to read the typed up journals illustrated with pictures, these are going up during November 2020
Rose quite early, took cafetiere coffee and a better breakfast than last night’s dinner had suggested – quite a vast spread.
Mike had been allocated to us for today by Wilderness Safari.
Before going touring yesterday, I had called Tanya in London to complain about the lousy transfer [arse-to-tit with the Taylor couple, not as specified]. When we returned from touring, a Wilderness Safari lady phoned to “apologise” and offer our upgrade (what upgrade?) and touring for today gratis. Daisy and I agreed that we should limit the tour to 5 hours or so and Mike was happy with that.
So off we went to the Williams Falls. Just before we were due to stop, Daisy befriended some kids carrying wood bundles on their heads. Daisy tried it for herself with some awkwardness but success.
Then on to Williams Falls themselves – Ged hears the call of the “greater spotted Heather Taylor” as we retreat from the bush.
Then on to Chagwa dam, natural reservoir, where we stop the car and hike to Queen’s View and Emperor’s View. At the former, we buy a stone piece made of black tourmaline and white ferro spa from Malosa Mountain.
At the latter, we spot the Taylors again – what is it with these people?
[Actually, you’ll be relived to learn that this was the last we saw of The Taylor Couple, aka the rude “Audley Couple” when we arrived, who seemed to keep bouncing back to us, possibly because, we suspect, they booked an adapted version of the tour we nearly booked through Audley. We chose Ultimate in the end because they found us Hueglin’s Lodge, which solved a difficult travel issue in getting to Kaya Mawa, but those stories are for another day]
Then a long drive to Chingwe’s hole, plus the craic nearby, where the merchants failed to persuade us to buy, but we gave them our sandwiches.
Then another fairly long and bumpy ride home.
Afternoon on lovely hotel terrace with comedy act revolving around us ordering a beer, two glasses and a plate of macadamia nuts, with a small cast of characters trying to meet the order and get us to sign for it…
…or not as the case seemingly turned out. As no bill for the nuts came.
After relaxing on the terrace, we relaxed some more on our own balcony, now sunny.
Daisy started the job of repacking; between us it was done quite quickly.
Some comedy plumbing, as Daisy showed me how she was solving the trickling/non-flushing loo problem…
…by pumping the bath outflow with the bath plug thingy. The resulting trickle of water from under the bath (coincidently with the toilet resuming service) told us it was soon time to leave and we plotted several toilet use strategies.
Shower? Toilet? Bath? Whatever!
Then shower and dinner.
A much better looking a-la-carte tonight and no intrusive buffet. Our fireside table was indeed reserved for us which made Daisy happy.
The mushroom soup experience of last night did not deter Daisy from the carrot soup (poor choice – a floury concoction as devoid of carrot as its predecessor had been devoid of mushroom), nor did it deter me from spicy mushrooms on toast – much better choice – last night’s soup mushrooms must have been held back for this tasty treat.
Then fish – the waiter suggested we try two types – the Kampango (fillet which Daisy tried with chips) and the Chambo (whole fish, bit like a freshwater bream, which I tried with rice). Mine was tastier but very very bony. Same vegetable melee as yesterday. Raspberry tart more like a stuffed scone.
I like to chambo, she likes kampango, we like less endangered species…NOW they tell us.
The food and beverage manager chatted us up at dinner, raising the macadamia incident. Daisy (perhaps foolishly) mentioned that we hadn’t been charged for them.
“That’s right, but you will be, when you sign for your wine”, he said. The wine was a jolly Saffer Chardonnay by the way.
When the bill came, still no nuts! I signed, tipped heartily again and we left. Mr Foodandbeverage was at the restaurant reception as we left.
“Did you enjoy your meal?”
“Yes, yes…”
“Did they get you to pay for your nuts?”
“Not yet”.
“Ah, wait here…”
…he says…and produces a bill for $10 – about the price of a sirloin steak.
We have a lively debate about the sense or otherwise in charging monstrous amounts for small things and he decides in the end to waive the charge…
…despite my insistence that we should pay something, just a reasonable sum.
We went to bed feeling bemused, amused and probably several other things ending in “used”.
If you prefer to read the typed up journals illustrated with pictures, these are going up during November 2020
We rise early, pack, take an early coffee in the room and then breakfast on the terrace.
Daisy returns to the room to finish packing just as Christopher [driver] arrives.
It becomes apparent very quickly that Christopher is expecting to collect us and the Taylors. Daisy will be pleased, as am I and indeed (presumably) are the Taylors.
I go and tell Daisy, who stomps off to sort the matter out. I can see, of course, it is pretty much unsortable. Christopher suggested doing two trips. But that would mean one couple loses half a day at least.
He suggests an extra alternative car, but that would be at least four hours also.
There was nothing else for it, we all had to squash into a single vehicle clearly designed for the comfort of two not four with baggage.
Daisy ended up curled up like a fetus amongst the baggage, while the Taylors took the prime seats and I sat up front with Christopher.
Under the circumstances (curled up in the foetal position) Daisy took some excellent pictures
We all got to know each other bit better, which was splendid. The Taylors had their own arrangements at the other end, whereas we were expecting to take to the town, so we agreed that Christopher would drop us at Ke Chawe, wait for me and Daisy and then take us touring.
Despite the traffic jam at one detour village…
…we reached town at circa 12:15.
Daisy and I were shown a shabby room, clearly not deluxe, but it seemed that all rooms had been regraded since we booked so there is no such thing as a standard room any more!
I asked upgrade to the best available, which I was informed was executive deluxe $20 extra. I explained that it was not about money and we moved.
Tipping at this place seems to invite slightly better service.
So we were off touring. We went to the market first. Looked around. People can be quite surly and many don’t want photos. Although many are friendly and most can be won round at least to chat, if not for photos.
Pop-top chequers
I played bawo for while in the market and lost. Despite seemingly good advice.
Daisy wanted to see chitense cloth, but didn’t get much further than Christopher’s friend’s stall.
Then on to the colonial buildings, after short stop for Christopher to arrange some money and buy some petrol.
At the first, now a municipal and/or embassy building, it was hard to tell which, Christopher failed to get some information for us but we were happy just to walk around.
Daisy saw an interesting looking estate behind the gate, from which a security man came and we thought we might be in trouble. But Daisy persuaded him that she was keen on gardens, so he opened up and became our guide.
Turned out she had seen an extension to Annie’s Lodge being built, in the shadow of the Hotel Masongola, perhaps the grandest of the colonial buildings.
Satiated, we returned home, thanked Christopher, returned to bath and change…
…except the bath water is brown, so we thought perhaps shower…
…but 30 seconds of shower flooded the room.
So we ended up switching rooms again (a longer process once you have unpacked, but mercifully only towed two doors down).
Then showering – the bathwater was still brown – then down to dinner for an insipid flower thickened mushroom soup followed by a tough old boiler hen in a tasty tomato/onion gravy and okay deserts.
Hurray for a tasty Paarl Riesling, boo to the cold in the dining room which made Daisy in particular thoroughly miserable.
She went straight to bed with her clothes on. Even I used my “kaftan shirt” as a nightie!
