Quick stop at our Thiripyitsaya Hotel (stunning cottages) before setting off for one monastery – (Mingalazedi Pagoda) where we climb to the top and see view
– then on to Bupaya for stunning river view and prayers for our folks – Janie dispensed hundreds of pens to charming children.
Dinner at Si Thu with puppet show and dancing. Pork balls, quite good and for once an edible beef curry. Not much else of note – deservedly early night.
A placeholder piece which shows the full itinerary and has links to the albums of all our photographs for this trip can be found by clicking here or the link below:
Rose ridiculously early (4 am) – I tried to persuade Ko Khaw to collect us with a trishaw while we were still sleeping, but he refused our request.
Instead we collected packed breakfast and set off at 4:45 for the river port. In almost pitch darkness, we crossed two local ferry boats already team with people, food and trade [see headline picture and those that follow] on to the “tourist vote” – more luxurious.
Much to photograph at sunrise on the first stretch, then little to see, apart from the occasional stops where vendors tried to sell us bananas and monounauk (palm sugar and rice cake). So we read, took some sun, caught up on sleep. Had a long, lingering, packed lunch – slept some more – read some more – take a little more sun and photographed our arrival at Pagan (Bagan).
A placeholder piece which shows the full itinerary and has links to the albums of all our photographs for this trip can be found by clicking here or the link below:
Relatively late start. Set off for Amarapura – looked at bronze costings and wood carving places along the way – examined one humble home in some detail, including a densely populated, young woman showing off her spread.
Then onto Mahagandhayon Monastery where we were able to witness the monks dining (circus style) while Daiso [Janie] decided that she wasn’t feeling very well. After sending out the search parties throughout the monastery, we were joyfully reunited and then looked around the masters quarters, senior students quarters and a dormitory (where Daiso’s pencils and glacier mints, went as fast as a rabbit down a hole).
A blind man in the Mahagandhayon grounds
Next – on to U Bein Bridge where we took pictures and bought a picture for Daiso – also bought a weird root vegetable (ice potato) which we ate for/with lunch. Then on to lunch at Emerald Green, good chicken soup, not much else.
Taungthaman Lake
I cannot find a modern reference to that restaurant nor to the root vegetable that Kyaw called “ice potato”. The restaurant long gone I expect, the vegetable no doubt known as something else. It reminded me of daikon, if I remember correctly.
Then on to Bagaya Monastery with 400 Buddha images – then to see silk weaving and did business on six longyis!
We didn’t take this bus to the silk weaving and longhyi factoryThis lady selling betel nut along the way
Then on to Aya Bridge across Irrawaddy (no photos directly, but scenes around the bridge). Then back to ferr yboat crossed river (can take photos of bridge now )– then into pony and trap for back-breaking ride around Ava [aka Innwa or Inwa] – 18th century, monasteries/temple/Paya. – Eventually (numb) get to the other Bagaya Monastery (stunning) where few monks live.
The Old Ava Bridge – subsequently replacedIt’s amazing that, in that contraption, we only took a pony and trap in one sense of the phraseWorth the bone-breaking ride
We took the bone breaking ride back to the ferry and wended our way home via the longyi shop (where they have sewn up how longyis for us). Dinner at Honey Garden restaurant where we continue to fail to get any duck, but we are compensated with excellent double cooked pork and shrimp rolls. Early night.
A placeholder piece which shows the full itinerary and has links to the albums of all our photographs for this trip can be found by clicking here or the link below:
Rose early, flew to Mandalay and checked in at Sedona. First day of touring – The Mahamuni Pagoda with its bazaars on all sides and gold leaf covering of the image. A generous local invited Ged Ladd [Me] to apply some of his gold leaf to the Buddha. (See headline image also shown below). We see monks and nuns in the grounds and touch, healing Khmer statues.
This couple wedding-feasting at Eternal Restaurant
Eat at Eternal Restaurant with pork bun and Tom Yum soup and fine Chinese broccoli and not much else of note. Then on to see a factory where the gold leaf hammering is done. Daisy [Janie] dispensed pens with reckless abandon. Then onto the grounds of the Old Palace, now containing a somewhat gaudy replica. (The British “did a Wurtzburg” on the original at the end of World War II).
Daisy surveying the “Old” Palace
Then onto Shwenandaw Monastery (part of the old palace, which had been built and moved “MFI/IKEA style”) with fine, old wood, carvings…
Atumashi – stunning on the outside…...while the naffness of this game show Buddha has to be seen live for the full effect
…and then on to Kuthodaw Pagoda, with amazing tombstone-like slabs of Buddhist Scriptures. There the local girls told Janie how pretty I am (as usual). Across the way to the Sandamuni Pagoda, where the unfortunately named U-Khanti translated, Pali scriptures into Burmese.
Ian politely tells Khaw that we are “pagodad out” now
Home for a quick siesta before going up to the Mandalay Hill to watch the sunset
Sedona for siesta
Another short break before going across the road for a Burmese meal at Pyigyimon Restaurant – mostly notable for a superb lentil soup and “sandal leather” beef – the curry sauces were good.
A placeholder piece which shows the full itinerary and has links to the albums of all our photographs for this trip can be found by clicking here or the link below:
Monday 2 November 1998 – Left London in morning. Flew day/night to Kuala Lumpur, then transit on to Rangoon arriving mid morning 3 November.
Tuesday 3 November 1998 – Tired and travel weary. Met by Ko Kyaw, our guide. Slept afternoon – rose early evening. Looked around Hotel [Inya Lake] – dined in “Grill” restaurant. Tried varied Burmese menu, including chicken salad, tomato salad, mango pickle, shrimp condiment, chicken curry, snapper & shrimp, vegetable vermicelli, mixed vegetables, mung bean soup, and Burmese tea.
We must have been seriously travel weary when we arrived in Yangon, as we didn’t take a single, solitary photograph that day. In our defence, we knew that we would be returning to Yangon later in our trip.
A placeholder piece which shows the full itinerary and has links to the albums of all our photographs for this trip can be found by clicking here or the link below:
Sunday night at “The Wig” to see this concert by the Chagall Trio, peppered with readings from Marc Chagall’s autobiography delivered by my old schoolmate, Samuel West.
We heard:
Dmitri Shostakovich – Piano Trio No 2 in E Minor, Op 67
Philip Grange – Homage to Chagall
Igor Stravinsky – Rag-time for Eleven Instruments
Aaron Copland – Vitebsk – Study on a Jewish Theme
Janie is partial to a bit of Chagall, visually, and is fascinated by Chagall’s life story, so the whole idea seemed to tick a lot of boxes for us. It was indeed a super concert that pleased us.
We were on a Richmond kick that quarter, for some reason, with three visits to The Orange Tree and two visits to the Richmond Theatre. Coincidence really, I should imagine.
Janie liked it more than I did.
That is my log’s pithy conclusion.
Excellent cast, with Stephanie Cole, Stephanie Beacham, Benjamin Whitrow & Gerald Harper. Christopher Morahan directed it. A transfer from Bath, as was often the case at Richmond.
Reading that review 25 years later, all I can think of is the wonderful Peter Cook quote: “I go to the theatre to be entertained. I don’t want to see plays about rape, sodomy and drug addiction – I can get all that at home.“
I think we must have been experimenting a bit at The Wigmore Hall for this one, as I don’t think of this music as being Janie’s taste. Perhaps I was especially keen to encourage her to hear the Richard Strauss songs…or at least i was keen to hear them performed live. Olaf Bär certainly gave them some baritone oomph.
We heard:
Ludwig van Beethoven – Trio in B Flat Op 11 for Clarinet, Cello and Piano
Gustav Mahler – Kindertotenlieder for Voice and Ensemble
Richard Strauss – Five Songs
Arnold Schoenberg – Verklarte Nacht Op 4 for String Sextet.
I sense that I enjoyed this concert more than Janie did.
.jpg){kind=link}